Soldering #0 &2/0 is not at all tough if you do it the easy way.

It does take a little thing holder (my box had a generation old vacuum
base vice) and a soldering gun. I have a pair of loose tip nuts in the
box for a 240 watt soldering gun.

Put the lug on the cable and clamp it in the vise.
Put the nuts only in the soldering gun.
Put the nuts up against the lug and pull the trigger.
= In a very short time the lug will start accepting solder.

It you get it right the insulation doesn't show any heat effect, but but
put shrink on it any way.

The only problem is that this pretty much does require shore power.

Matt Colie



Larry wrote:
wrote in
:


The only downside is one needs "bellmouthed" crimp lugs as trying to
insert in standard chamfered lugs is a PITA




No, one needs SOLDER CUP lugs...(c; Soldering is NOT a sin! I checked
with a priest. My whole 1973 Mercedes Benz 220D uses solder cup
connectors and has for the past 32 years.

I pulled one apart with fine-stranded #0 welding cable that was soldered
in a cup to see how strong it is. The solder held past when the copper
up in the cable parted...Strong enough? A crimp isn't near as strong.
New solder is much stronger than old LEAD solder.