Thanks Jim,
This was a sal****er boat - now it will be a fresh water toy. Any
advise about the stern drive water pump - should I just ignore it since
it has a belt driven raw water unit drawing in from the botton of the
boat?
The thing came with a couple of deep cycle batteries - I thought a few
heavy starts would wreck them - should I fit a high CCA 600+ regular
sealed autobattery?

Jim wrote:
If the replacement lump is pre 1987 out of a truck The lumps should lump
together pretty well. Be advised that non marine lumps might rust out if
used in salt water.
Jim

"Poolboy" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am new to boating but pretty up to speed on dry land engine stuff.
I have fallen heir to a Mirrocruiser 25' (1980 Cruisers Inc) that I am
going to have to rebuild. The hull is in really good shape and I can
see a lot stuff has already been replaced - alternator, starter, prop.
Everything else seems to work - the remote etc
The Mercruiser lump has been lying uncovered for a few months and is
partially siezed due to rainwater getting in thru the carb (I am
soaking this thing neat WD40 in the hope I can slacken it off). The
guy had left the flame arrestor/filter assembly off.
If this "unsiezing" exercise is a failure, can I use use a Chevy 350
lump - the block and heads seem to be the same - just the oil pan is an
obvious difference. Can I swap the bits over and make it a equal to a
Marine version? The stern drive is a M/C - the one with the loop on
the top (pre-Alpha One). The cooling system is closed system with a
seawater pump driven by a belt on the front and has a hull intake just
forward of the engine. Does this mean that I can ignore the sterndrive
pump?
Any help is greatly appreciated - I am not looking for a Rolls Royce
rocket boat - I just want chug about the lake and go fishing!