Battery Killer - That's Me
Daniel,
Congradulations on a wonderful season.
This is not an uncommon problem. It seems the ratings on OEM
alternators is possible charge rate on a dead starting battery. None I
have ever tried to test could deliver near rated current to a
three-quarter charged house bank.
I have cleaned up after two different experiments by owners to manually
"trick" the internal regulator into doing more. I do not advise any
manual control.
It would not be difficult to disable or completely remove the internal
regulator and use an external regulator that will do a much better job
for your situation. It would seem that Balmar is the remaining
supplier, but please look around.
You could buy an alternator and regulator package from Balmar, but
~90amp is about all you should ask of a single belt, so try just
upgrading the regulatior first.
Any good alternator shop could make the adaptation. If you can, find
out where your local emergency people go to get alternators serviced.
Or - read up on the subject - it isn't rocket science.
Matt Colie
Daniele Fua wrote:
I'd like to hear an advice on the following related question.
My summer was plagued by continuous low charged batteries due to the
fact that I was most of the time sailing (literally: wind-sailing).
Every time I would turn on the engine the alternator would provide only
20A and, with a 400Ah bank, that would mean ages of noise and vibration.
The alternator itself is a good Motorola NGM 14V 75A and the engine is a
even better Perkins 4.108. Both would be able to deliver much more than
the scanty 20A.
Notice that the Motorola has the regulator enclosed and I do not know if
a "smart" regulator would fit. I understand that there should be a way
to cheat the regulator and force a higher charge for at least some
reasonable time. Anybody knows how?
Notice that the noise and vibration would surely prevent me from
forgetting the "cheat" switch and overcharge.
Thanx
Daniel
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