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jiminfl jiminfl is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Sep 2006
Posts: 21
Default bilge pump Q for bayliner 2150 classic


JimH wrote:
"jiminfl" wrote in message
oups.com...

JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm
to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your
boat and those surrounding yours.


You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?


What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include bilge pumps with float
switches? How about after 1980? How many were Bayliners?


How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?


Most bilge pumps include an internal float. Can you name any ever used by
Bayliner on their 2150 Cierra Classics that do not?


How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?


What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include a 3 way bilge switch at
the helm?
How about after 1980? Can you name *any* Bayliners ever built that do not?



How do you know the boat doesn't leak?


I don't and I never inferred otherwise.


How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?


I did not state it was a DIY project for this particular owner. I stated it
was an easy DIY project.


How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?


He said he would use a portable battery charger using an extension cord. Do
you think that is a safe way to charge a battery over a week on a boat?



You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.


Your attack on me was not justified by anything I posted in this thread and
was sophomoric (actually *Kevinesque*). You successfully turned an good
boating related thread into a personal attack.

I hope you have a relaxing evening Jim and have a better day tomorrow. ;-)


Why thank you Jimmy.
I do not intend to educate you on Bayliners and bilge pumps, however,
If you would do some research and answer your own questions, I am
certain that you would be enlightened.
You may now have the absolutely last word,
Jim