NE Sailboat wrote:

Paul ,, followup question:
Once I lay down the two part epoxy primer, over the non skid original
gelcoat deck .. :: will I be able to prep the two part epoxy primer with
bronze wool? The guides I have read say to use bronze wool, not sand paper
because of the non skid surface. Will the two part primer just need to be
bronze wooled and then cleaned, then put down the one part non skid deck
finish?



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The epoxies (thinned as a primer or used solvent free) all take about a
week to completely cure even if they feel dry/hard in a few hours. If
you topcoat them with more epoxy or another product within that 'window'
you will get a bit of chemical bonding between the layers (at least
that's the theory) besides the ordinary mechanical bond.

I suspect they suggest bronze wool is that 1) sandpaper might sand right
thru the thin primer coat, 2) unlike steel wool, the bronze ''trash'
will not rust. 3) nothing wrong with scuffing up the surface a bit
before the next coating product, although I think it is rarely done. I
don't think I would bother if it was my project.

paul
progressive epoxy polymers



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"Paul Oman" wrote in message
k.net...


NE Sailboat wrote:



I am in the planning stage of refinish my deck. Sailboat, 30 plus feet.

The deck is the original non skid. Ok shape after 30 years.

I checked with Interlux. They sell a one part paint for non skid. I like
that because two part paints are so weather conditional and I
am doing the work in the spring.

Now for the question .. the primer. Interlux sells a two part primer
which
seems very sweet. It is an epoxy primer.

The write-up says it will get into the little cracks, etc and that would
be
good. But will it be compatible with the one part finish?

And is it worth while using a two part paint with a one part finish?

Interlux also has a one part primer that seems good.

Any deck experts out there?


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epoxy primers, pretty much just solvent thinned epoxy, are a common
primer under just about all kinds of coatings.

yes, you must get something thin enough to get into those hairline cracks.
Most coatings just bridge over them. They are filled with air or water and
will open and close with temp - cutting back up thru any coating to the
surface. They also have a micro curl or lip on the edge so are not really
flat. If you just paint over them you might find this 'lip' still shows
the crack under it.


paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers
www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html