"David Flew" wrote in message
...
Now someone who really knows what they are doing can tell me where I'm
wrong. The above is how I'd do it industrially, it's not necessarily
going
to translate to the boat situation.

All sounds good, until I get to the set screw.. I'm from the old school of
belt and suspenders, I don't trust set scews in prop shafts or rudder posts.
If anything will come loose it will when you steering with the tiller in an
emergency situation.

I'll restate my recommendations to use the clamping bolts in a coupling that
is split lengthwise, one side only. Then these clamp bolts pass through the
very edge of the coupling bore and once the coupling is fitted to the shaft,
you pass a drill bit, then reamer, through the bolt hole and it cuts a notch
in the shaft. So the clamping force of the bolts prevent any rotation
movement while the bolt notch prevents the coupling from pulling off.. A set
screw would just walk up the shaft, over time and under alternate tiller
torque.

Regarding the coupling. These should be purchased blank and let them machine
shop bore them and broach the key way to suit the shaft. This way you get a
very acturate bore and key fit while you also can have the shop mill and
drill for the tiller head fitting.. He can also drill/ream for the clamping
bolts and this would then be a 'registered fit' so your assembly will always
be exactly in line with the rudder blade.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions