Thread: Noisy Mast
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Jim Woodward
 
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Default Noisy Mast

I like Glenn's PVC pipe, but how about smearing it heavily with a
loaded epoxy as you push it in? You don't need a lot of bonding.
(I've never tried this one.)

Rather than use pop rivets to attach PVC pipe, I like using black tie
wraps. You can run them in and out of a pair of 1/4" holes. A shaped
piece of steel will help convince them to bend around the pipe and out
the other hole. Pop rivets are harder and I'm afraid of the wire
chafing on the rivet.

I've also used u shaped bolts dragged into place with a line through
the holes, with help from a fishtape. This is easiest if you cut one
of the legs much longer than the other and pull it through first. Once
you have it in place, cut off the long leg. Use acorn nuts. This is
more satisfactory than either pop rivets or tie wraps on larger boats
where you may have a number of wires.

Even easier the first time is to use the tie wraps through two 1/4"
holes directly on the wires -- installing a pipe is a better long term
solution, though.

If you use foam or blocks, you want to make sure that they drain --
the last thing you want is a mast full of water trapped above the
spreaders.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


Jim Richardson wrote in message ...
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On 09 Oct 2003 00:22:24 GMT,
WestlakeY wrote:
If you don't want or can't pull the wires. Run a snake through than
pull a messenger with foam blocks tied every few feet for the length
of the spar.



The foam blocks work ok, but the *next* guy who wants to run new or
another wire there, has to deal with old, decaying urethane foam bits.
It's a real pain. I used the zip tie method recently, it has it's own
problems, but it doesn't rattle a bit. the pvc conduit is the best way,
as well as the most work. You can also run it up outside the mast if you
are careful wrt routing, but some folks don't care for the cosmetic
issues, and you still have to figure out how to keep the cable(s) snug
to the mast.

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