I'd say that at this point in the game you outta tear the whole fuel suystem
down and clean / replace stuff yes. You can test if it's a *water in gas*
issue with a fresh dummy can. Past that - it's time to pay the piper and
tear 'em down.

-W




--

PLEASE NOTE: Email address change from to

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
I just checked it idling in the driveway with my timing light. I had fire
on all 6. Same at 2000 and 3000 rpm. Didn't want to turn it any faster
than that because my water hose didn't deliver enough water at 3000 to
keep
a steady stream of water and I don't want to risk overheating.

I suppose I need to due the same thing under load on the water. That can
be
pretty tricky.

I have a water seperator on the way. I think I'll go get a cheap
universal
electric fuel pump and pump all the gas out of the tanks and see if that
helps at all. I guess I can go get a 6 gallon portable fuel tank and try
that too as you suggest.

When I was trying to figure this out before (when it wasn't as bad as it
is
now) somebody suggested a fuel additive called Dry Gas. I was not able to
find anything like that on the internet. Is that for real?

How can I check fuel flow in the carbs? Do I just have to pull them off
and
tear them down?



"Clams Canino" wrote in message
newsRGQa.62034$ye4.44104@sccrnsc01...
And by the way - this is a big assumption. If you can get fire on all 6
while cranking it, and your stator ohms out OK, odds shift rapidly to
fuel
issues. Prolly a clogged carb jet etc.

Borrow a 6 gallon "dummy can" and try that for a fuel source also to
eliminate your entire tank system.

-W

"Clams Canino" wrote in message
news:r8GQa.61960$Ph3.5781@sccrnsc04...
We are assuming you are SURE your don't have a diry (clogged) carb or
carbs.
OK?