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#1
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The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old. The runs are about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line). Of course I will leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration. Does anyone have any advice about these or other metals for diesel fuel lines or other fuel line material that will not end up smelling in a few years? Thanks in advance, Mark |
#2
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plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old. I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel. Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6 years. ... The runs are about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line). Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know! Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs) is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly. Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a lot of time and careful work. ...Of course I will leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration. You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air & hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections were not a problem. It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#3
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I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.
May I suggest taking it to a motor boat forum. Thank you for your consideration of those of us who wish to discuss sailing here on this sailing forum.. Capt. Neal "DSK" wrote in message . .. plugster wrote: The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old. I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel. Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6 years. ... The runs are about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line). Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know! Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs) is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly. Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a lot of time and careful work. ...Of course I will leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration. You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air & hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections were not a problem. It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#4
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Crap'n Neal® wrote:
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing. Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you can't but try not to be bitter. DSK |
#5
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Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use gasoline). CN "DSK" wrote in message news ![]() Crap'n Neal® wrote: I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing. Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you can't but try not to be bitter. DSK |
#6
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![]() Capt. Neal=AE wrote: Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use gasoline). CN Not so Capt. A well laid out fuel system and properly fitted boat will not smell at all. Take RedCloud for instance. I have a superior Lister 2 cly AIR COOLED gen set that preforms a total exchange of air in my engine room every 15 seconds. You can have everything running at full speed and enjoy outside tempatures in the engine room. I hang catch pans under my filter housing for changing filters and removing water. Not a drop enters my bilge. My fuel lines are all either copper piping or tubing, same for all my gauges. I run my tubing properly to included vibration coils so I never have stress or viberation related leaks. When the gen set is running we are usually at anchor, I leave the mizzen up fully sheeted in and fully reefed, that way we always face the breeze and never smell exhaust. And both my exhaust are under water underway. Joe "DSK" wrote in message news ![]() Crap'n Neal=AE wrote: I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing. Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you can't but try not to be bitter. DSK |
#7
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#8
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![]() Perhaps I have a better sense of smell than many since I never smoked but I have NEVER been aboard any diesel boat that did not smell of diesel fuel. CN wrote in message ups.com... Capt. Neal® wrote: Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use gasoline). CN Not so Capt. A well laid out fuel system and properly fitted boat will not smell at all. Take RedCloud for instance. I have a superior Lister 2 cly AIR COOLED gen set that preforms a total exchange of air in my engine room every 15 seconds. You can have everything running at full speed and enjoy outside tempatures in the engine room. I hang catch pans under my filter housing for changing filters and removing water. Not a drop enters my bilge. My fuel lines are all either copper piping or tubing, same for all my gauges. I run my tubing properly to included vibration coils so I never have stress or viberation related leaks. When the gen set is running we are usually at anchor, I leave the mizzen up fully sheeted in and fully reefed, that way we always face the breeze and never smell exhaust. And both my exhaust are under water underway. Joe "DSK" wrote in message news ![]() Crap'n Neal® wrote: I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing. Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you can't but try not to be bitter. DSK |
#9
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12hp 7.5KW 1800 RPM's, Between the gen and engine... attached to the
fly wheel is a cast iron squirrel cage type blower. It's about 6" wide and approx24" across. It all dumps in a 10 inch duct and it piped out behind the wheelhouse. 15 sec. Joe |
#10
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Thanks for the information. I will check to see if the original hose was
rated for diesel fuel. Do you have a good source for diesel rated hose? West Marine has USCG and NMMA approved hose but I would like to make sure there is no smell at all. Maybe I should go with the refrigeration grade copper. I think that I can make the run with one piece per side but it will be very difficult. The current hose is very well mounted and I think I can use the same system again. I have never been on a boat that did not smell of Diesel that was so equipped. I think I have a chance with metal lines. Thanks Mark "DSK" wrote in message . .. plugster wrote: The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old. I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel. Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6 years. ... The runs are about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line). Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know! Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs) is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly. Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a lot of time and careful work. ...Of course I will leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration. You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air & hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections were not a problem. It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
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