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#1
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Michiel wrote:
Hello, I have a 3hp Sears Gamefisher aircooled outboard. It's Tanaka 300 with Sears brand. It developed a problem: After running at full throttle with no problems for 10 minutes os so, it'll start to cut out. The engine speed will drop fast. At first, it'll keep running and pick up speed again, but it will cut out again and if I don't close the throttle, it'll get so bad that the engine dies. Running it at low rpm for a while eases the problem: I can then get back to full throttle and it'll take a minute or so before it starts to cut out again. Because of the initial time without problem, I'm thinking that the problem is heat related. I cleaned out the carb and put in a new spark plug, but no relief. I also verified that there is good flow through the fuel valve and hose. Any idea what this could be? Is it more likely an ignition or a fuel problem? How can I troubleshoot this? I'd appreciate any advise or pointers. Thank you, Michiel fuel tank vent? -- ""War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse." John Stewart Mill I strongly urge everyone reading this to check out WWW.anysoldier.us, and support our troops with a letter, a package or a donation. |
#2
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I had a 3hp Tanaka and had the same problem. It turned out to be the gas
tank cap was not venting. Best thing that ever happened to me was when I dropped the cap into the river. Bought a new one from Tanaka and never had that problem again. A 1/32nd drill bit would cure the problem. Rich "Michiel" wrote in message ... Hello, I have a 3hp Sears Gamefisher aircooled outboard. It's Tanaka 300 with Sears brand. It developed a problem: After running at full throttle with no problems for 10 minutes os so, it'll start to cut out. The engine speed will drop fast. At first, it'll keep running and pick up speed again, but it will cut out again and if I don't close the throttle, it'll get so bad that the engine dies. Running it at low rpm for a while eases the problem: I can then get back to full throttle and it'll take a minute or so before it starts to cut out again. Because of the initial time without problem, I'm thinking that the problem is heat related. I cleaned out the carb and put in a new spark plug, but no relief. I also verified that there is good flow through the fuel valve and hose. Any idea what this could be? Is it more likely an ignition or a fuel problem? How can I troubleshoot this? I'd appreciate any advise or pointers. Thank you, Michiel |
#3
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heat problems usually mean an impeller or the tube from the impeller to the
engine, or the water pump. Is it like other outboards with a '****' stream of water out the back? If so, is the water flow good and steady? It should be about the same temp as the water around the boat, if it is hot water coming out the '****' stream, you've found the cause paul oman progressive epoxy polymers Michiel wrote: Hello - On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 16:56:40 -0600, dazed and confuzed wrote: Michiel wrote: Hello, I have a 3hp Sears Gamefisher aircooled outboard. It's Tanaka 300 with Sears brand. It developed a problem: After running at full throttle with no problems for 10 minutes os so, it'll start to cut out. The engine speed will drop fast. At first, it'll keep running and pick up speed again, but it will cut out again and if I don't close the throttle, it'll get so bad that the engine dies. Running it at low rpm for a while eases the problem: I can then get back to full throttle and it'll take a minute or so before it starts to cut out again. Because of the initial time without problem, I'm thinking that the problem is heat related. I cleaned out the carb and put in a new spark plug, but no relief. I also verified that there is good flow through the fuel valve and hose. Any idea what this could be? Is it more likely an ignition or a fuel problem? How can I troubleshoot this? I'd appreciate any advise or pointers. Thank you, Michiel fuel tank vent? I don't think so. After reading your suggestion, I went out and took off the fuel cap (the vent is in the fuel cap) and blew some air through it. Seemed easy enough. Heat seems to be a factor. After refueling, takes less time to start acting up then after cold start. -- "Living on Earth is expensive, but it does include a free trip around the Sun every year." ============================================ PAUL OMAN Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. Frog Pond Hollow - 48 Wildwood Dr Pittsfield NH 03263 10-4 Monday-Thur EST 603-435-7199 VISA/MC/Discover/Paypal http://www.epoxyproducts.com sign-up for free email newsletter! ============================================ |
#4
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Michiel wrote:
Hello - On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 16:56:40 -0600, dazed and confuzed wrote: Michiel wrote: Hello, I have a 3hp Sears Gamefisher aircooled outboard. It's Tanaka 300 with Sears brand. It developed a problem: After running at full throttle with no problems for 10 minutes os so, it'll start to cut out. The engine speed will drop fast. At first, it'll keep running and pick up speed again, but it will cut out again and if I don't close the throttle, it'll get so bad that the engine dies. Running it at low rpm for a while eases the problem: I can then get back to full throttle and it'll take a minute or so before it starts to cut out again. Because of the initial time without problem, I'm thinking that the problem is heat related. I cleaned out the carb and put in a new spark plug, but no relief. I also verified that there is good flow through the fuel valve and hose. Any idea what this could be? Is it more likely an ignition or a fuel problem? How can I troubleshoot this? I'd appreciate any advise or pointers. Thank you, Michiel fuel tank vent? I don't think so. After reading your suggestion, I went out and took off the fuel cap (the vent is in the fuel cap) and blew some air through it. Seemed easy enough. Heat seems to be a factor. After refueling, takes less time to start acting up then after cold start. Try running it with the fuel tank cap removed. might give you a clue as to whether that is the problem. -- ""War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse." John Stewart Mill I strongly urge everyone reading this to check out WWW.anysoldier.us, and support our troops with a letter, a package or a donation. |
#5
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Michiel wrote:
Hello, I have a 3hp Sears Gamefisher aircooled outboard. It's Tanaka 300 with Sears brand. It developed a problem: After running at full throttle with no problems for 10 minutes os so, it'll start to cut out. The engine speed will drop fast. At first, it'll keep running and pick up speed again, but it will cut out again and if I don't close the throttle, it'll get so bad that the engine dies. Running it at low rpm for a while eases the problem: I can then get back to full throttle and it'll take a minute or so before it starts to cut out again. Because of the initial time without problem, I'm thinking that the problem is heat related. I cleaned out the carb and put in a new spark plug, but no relief. I also verified that there is good flow through the fuel valve and hose. Any idea what this could be? Is it more likely an ignition or a fuel problem? How can I troubleshoot this? I'd appreciate any advise or pointers. Thank you, Michiel Too much oil in the fuel mix makes the engine run lean and hot. My old Kawasaki 2 stroke used to get tight and run rough and slow when it got hot. Not enough gas means some of the carbon monoxide usually wasted in the exhaust burns, too, producing more carbon dioxide in the exhaust. Did you ever notice how an engine runs very strong for a moment as it runs out of gas? It's the reason a car's catalytic converter gets hot, the monoxide is burned to make dioxide, producing heat. That's what I was told. It destroyed my chain saw- got hot, loosened everything up, shook every bolt loose and let the chain oil tank rub on the flywheel. It's an old saw, can't get a tank to fit. Live and learn. Don't "protect" your 2 stroke by putting in too much oil. How come cars don't run lean enough to burn all the monoxide? It seems like it would improve mileage if it could be managed properly. YMMV Terry K |
#6
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You might check the magneto or condendser.
They break down over time. As the motor heats up the symptoms appear. After cooling a little it will seem ok until the cycle repeats. |
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