| Home |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Me and my LPU!
Boy, oh boy! Those two-part paints require some learning. Finally got a
decent coat on the topsides this morning. Here are some of the things I've learned: If the temperature is above 75, don't paint. Most especially if the sun is shining directly on the surface to be painted, don't paint. If it is evening, and the bugs are coming out, don't paint. Unless you have an environmentally secure and controlled space, pay special attention to the above three items. Do not leave off painting before the job is complete (a ridge will result that is impossible to cover up without sanding) Do not have more than one wet edge to your paint job at any one time for same reason as above. Do use a 1/8" foam roller rated for epoxy/urethane use. Do thin the paint. Do recoat within the allowed time window to avoid re-sanding. I am a fairly accomplished do-it-yourselfer, but were I doing it over, I would probably elect to use a good one part urethane. The two parts ARE great paints, but almost require a professional touch to use successfully or else plenty of time to wait for the exactly perfect circumstances. Bob Swarts |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Robert or Karen Swarts wrote:
Boy, oh boy! Those two-part paints require some learning. Finally got a decent coat on the topsides this morning. Here are some of the things I've learned: If the temperature is above 75, don't paint. Most especially if the sun is shining directly on the surface to be painted, don't paint. If it is evening, and the bugs are coming out, don't paint. Unless you have an environmentally secure and controlled space, pay special attention to the above three items. Do not leave off painting before the job is complete (a ridge will result that is impossible to cover up without sanding) Do not have more than one wet edge to your paint job at any one time for same reason as above. Do use a 1/8" foam roller rated for epoxy/urethane use. Do thin the paint. Do recoat within the allowed time window to avoid re-sanding. I am a fairly accomplished do-it-yourselfer, but were I doing it over, I would probably elect to use a good one part urethane. The two parts ARE great paints, but almost require a professional touch to use successfully or else plenty of time to wait for the exactly perfect circumstances. Bob Swarts ----------- Hi Bob - we sell LPU paints and I've recently played with them on a 12 ft firefly sailboat I am restoring. I have tried all the different methods, roll and tip, expensive brushes, etc. and have pretty much concluded that one should really spray these paints (I have yet to try spraying!). Yes, brush/roll application seems to be an art form. comments anyone? paul oman progressive epoxy polymers -- =========================== |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Robert or Karen Swarts wrote:
If the temperature is above 75, don't paint. Applies tom almost any paint. Most especially if the sun is shining directly on the surface to be painted, don't paint. Applies tom almost any paint. If it is evening, and the bugs are coming out, don't paint. Applies tom almost any paint. Unless you have an environmentally secure and controlled space, pay special attention to the above three items. Yep. Do not leave off painting before the job is complete (a ridge will result that is impossible to cover up without sanding) Applies tom almost any paint, especially LPU. Do not have more than one wet edge to your paint job at any one time for same reason as above. Yep Do recoat within the allowed time window to avoid re-sanding. Yep Paul Oman wrote: we sell LPU paints and I've recently played with them on a 12 ft firefly sailboat I am restoring. I have tried all the different methods, roll and tip, expensive brushes, etc. and have pretty much concluded that one should really spray these paints (I have yet to try spraying!). Yes, brush/roll application seems to be an art form. comments anyone? IMHO, a JGA gun with a 2 qt remote pot which is about $400-$500 for the package is the only way to go. BTW, you'll need a compressor that can deliver at least 15 SCFM. A 5HP, 2 stage compressor with an 80 gal receivor barely does it. Lew |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
These paints are cured with isocyanate (containing cyanide) compounds and
are QUITE toxic . If brushed or rolled, only the solvents become airborne but if sprayed, a fraction of the paint is atomized into the air. This is very toxic stuff and should only be sprayed if you use supplied-air respirators. A good job can be done in applying this stuff by roller. but it isn't easy. Most importantly, plan to do the whole side in one go and have all your equipment and materials together. Best to have two or three people- one to roll, one to tip off the rolled material with a foam brush and a third to fine-tune the thinning of the paint, pass the painters a new brush or a clean rag, answer the phone. etc. The Interlux manual is good. If the boat won't be subject to abuse, these paints are worth the effort. They will stand the weather for many years. "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message nk.net... Robert or Karen Swarts wrote: If the temperature is above 75, don't paint. Applies tom almost any paint. Most especially if the sun is shining directly on the surface to be painted, don't paint. Applies tom almost any paint. If it is evening, and the bugs are coming out, don't paint. Applies tom almost any paint. Unless you have an environmentally secure and controlled space, pay special attention to the above three items. Yep. Do not leave off painting before the job is complete (a ridge will result that is impossible to cover up without sanding) Applies tom almost any paint, especially LPU. Do not have more than one wet edge to your paint job at any one time for same reason as above. Yep Do recoat within the allowed time window to avoid re-sanding. Yep Paul Oman wrote: we sell LPU paints and I've recently played with them on a 12 ft firefly sailboat I am restoring. I have tried all the different methods, roll and tip, expensive brushes, etc. and have pretty much concluded that one should really spray these paints (I have yet to try spraying!). Yes, brush/roll application seems to be an art form. comments anyone? IMHO, a JGA gun with a 2 qt remote pot which is about $400-$500 for the package is the only way to go. BTW, you'll need a compressor that can deliver at least 15 SCFM. A 5HP, 2 stage compressor with an 80 gal receivor barely does it. Lew |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 13:47:25 -0700, Robert or Karen Swarts wrote:
Boy, oh boy! Those two-part paints require some learning. Finally got a decent coat on the topsides this morning. Here are some of the things I've learned: If the temperature is above 75, don't paint. Most especially if the sun is shining directly on the surface to be painted, don't paint. If it is evening, and the bugs are coming out, don't paint. Unless you have an environmentally secure and controlled space, pay special attention to the above three items. Do not leave off painting before the job is complete (a ridge will result that is impossible to cover up without sanding) Do not have more than one wet edge to your paint job at any one time for same reason as above. Do use a 1/8" foam roller rated for epoxy/urethane use. Do thin the paint. Do recoat within the allowed time window to avoid re-sanding. I am a fairly accomplished do-it-yourselfer, but were I doing it over, I would probably elect to use a good one part urethane. The two parts ARE great paints, but almost require a professional touch to use successfully or else plenty of time to wait for the exactly perfect circumstances. Bob Swarts Two part LPU is notoriously hard to apply without spraying. Boat yard people and various articles I've read over the years have consistently warned that non-spraying applications of LPU are challenging. I think there are special thinners that make the job somewhat easier, but I would probably just not use LPU. --Mac |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
If I had to wait till the temp was below 75 with no bugs I'd never be
able to paint. |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
|
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
How about: Do perform a sample test before attempting to use any new product or procedure? -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
| Reply |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Linear Mode
