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#1
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Doug, sounds like you lack experience but make up for it in enthuisasm
![]() That looks like a worthwhile project. Just try to match the wood as closely as possible & take your time. There's nothing wrong (IMO) with using superior, currently available materials (epoxy adhesives, modern sealants etc) to make it better than it was. One thing to check is the bottom. If it's been stored on the trailer with uneven pressure on rollers or skids etc it can have bottom problems (hooks or dips) that need to be adressed, early on. Good luck & keep us posted Greg Sefton |
#2
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Before you put a lot of labor in it, check the planking on the inside
back where it meets the transom, around the shaft log and any other sopt that might collect water. Rot in any of those places will turn what could be a fun, satisfying restoration into a nightmare. A real restoration devotee would see it as a challange but that work is not for a beginner. If that is sound, you have a VERY good boat with a lot of potential. Your most valuable information will come as you remove things. As you take out a rotten deck plank examine the edges and joints carefully to see how they went together. Sometines the deck planks are slightly beveled. Once they are all laid the joints were packed with plumber's oakum or a cotton yarn and then filled with either a white or black marine caulk formulated for the purpose. doug wrote: A while back I inherited a DixieCraft wooden boat, and, this being my first ever boat, I jumped into educating myself on anything I could find on it. Extensive netsearching brought up _very_ little on the name "DixieCraft", but volumes on wooden boats. I've bought several books, and in general made a nuisance of myself at the local library. I've followed this newsgroup for some time, and read with interest the variety of posts dealing with restoration of older wooden boats. I've had a couple of folks who know wood look at it, and the general consensus is that it is mahogany. (I unscrewed one piece from the frame, sanded the weathered surface from it to get a good look at the "fresh" wood) I'd like to find a balance between restoring to original condition, and using materials that were likely not available when it was new, and will give me better service. Sources for 1/2" thick, 4" width, and several foot lengths will be needed to deal with some topside damage, hull seems really solid. I've read where a "string" is used between the hull boards, caulking, etc... I don't know what was original, and haven't dissected any of the hull to see what's there currently. Previous owner sanded whatever was on it at the time, then stored it in my barn. He gave it to me when the family moved out of state. I want to do it right. Pictures below. And thanks for any advice that will help me get this little craft back into the water! doug swanson http://ellijay.com/users/des/Before1.jpg http://ellijay.com/users/des/Boat_hull_shot.jpg -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#3
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The only boat I have ever heard of having each seam be a live seam instead
of just a kerf is Ventnor. I think just about everybody else stuck to the traditional method. "P.C. Ford" wrote in message ... On Fri, 04 Jul 2003 17:13:33 -0400, Glenn Ashmore wrote: Your most valuable information will come as you remove things. As you take out a rotten deck plank examine the edges and joints carefully to see how they went together. Sometines the deck planks are slightly beveled. Once they are all laid the joints were packed with plumber's oakum or a cotton yarn and then filled with either a white or black marine caulk formulated for the purpose. With very, very few exceptions (in 20 years of runabout restoration I saw one) the decks on a speedboat are not caulked. Typically they will be made up of, say 6 inch wide planks which have a kerf cut into it on the 2 and 4 inch intervals. Thus, each plank will contain one real seam and two fake seams. All seams are covered with polysuphide or polyurethane. |
#4
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Doug,
I'm going past what you requested and I hope I'm not getting too much in your business, but I would like to offer a bit of un-asked-for advice. I would *strongly suggest* that right now you do the *absolute minimum* rework that will allow your boat to get back in the water safely. Do this even if it means that later you'll have to tear out all that to get it "done right". Here is the reason: there have been many, many otherwise savable boats that have died because an enthusistic owner kept finding more and more things that needed rework or repair during a teardown, especially on a newly purchaseed boat. If you use the boat for a season or more, you will likely become attached to it so much that you'll not lose enthusiasm if the later rework or restoration consumes years. However, if you get into a boat that you haven't used, and find more and more that "should be replaced while you've got it apart", then it is easy to become overwhelmed and just lket the project languish until there isn't anything left worth saving except the hull number. I've done this on a boat myself, so I know whereof I speak. I know a fellow who has done this to at least 6 otherwise repairable Centuries and Chris Crafts. It is so very easy to get into this frame of mind. Now, if you have rot at the junction of the transom and the hull, or in the wood that supports the power train or steering, then it must be fixed; but it you find more hull and stringer rot, and it is stuff that can be temporariuly repaired with epoxy or sisters, do it the easy way for now and get some use and enjoyment from the boat before you "do it right". Just friendly suggestions from someone who loves these old craft :-) Cheers/The Fader "LABOR SVGIT" |
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