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Alex Gross
 
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Default My kayak building page

I've been building a kayak off and on since March. I have just finished
updating my web page journal of the boat and just wanted to show it off.
This is my first boat building experience. Let me know what you think.
Thanks for looking.

www.uuwoodworking.com/boat

Alex


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Alex Gross
 
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Default My kayak building page

Thanks for the input. I have just made some changes to the site that will
make it easier to skip pages, and I removed some of the links to my main
page (which is not related to boats).

I guess I wasn't very clear in my first post about the progress of the boat.
It would be quite difficult to see the finished boat, because the boat isn't
finished yet
The wood "skin" is done, but the sanding has just begun, there is no coaming
yet, and fiberglassing has not yet started.

Alex


"Gary Wright" wrote in message
news:LOFXa.67405$uu5.7336@sccrnsc04...
In article , "Alex

Gross"
wrote:

I've been building a kayak off and on since March. I have just finished
updating my web page journal of the boat and just wanted to show it off.
This is my first boat building experience. Let me know what you think.
Thanks for looking.

www.uuwoodworking.com/boat

Alex

Alex,

Sorry, but I never got to see the finished boat -

There is nothing about boats on the first page (link above).

After looking at the baby - I thought the boat might be your 'baby' but

no, it's
a baby - I did finally find the link to the kayak project, but after the

4th or
5th page of shop photos, I bailed out. For somewone who wants to show off

a
boat, you hid it pretty deep in your site.

Suggestion:
Put a photo of the finished boat up front so we can see if it's something

we are
interested in, THEN give us the building details for those who are

interested in
the process.

-GW









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Simon Brooke
 
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Default My kayak building page

"Alex Gross" writes:

I've been building a kayak off and on since March. I have just finished
updating my web page journal of the boat and just wanted to show it off.
This is my first boat building experience. Let me know what you think.
Thanks for looking.

www.uuwoodworking.com/boat


Very bonnie.

Two questions:

(i) you're using very narrow strips. Do you not think with the easy
lines of this boat you could have used considerably wider strips
(like, twice as wide) and that this would have made the build
easier/quicker?

(ii) how are you going to get the formers out of the ends?

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Usenet: like distance learning without the learning.
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Alex Gross
 
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Default My kayak building page


"Simon Brooke" wrote in message
Very bonnie.

Two questions:

(i) you're using very narrow strips. Do you not think with the easy
lines of this boat you could have used considerably wider strips
(like, twice as wide) and that this would have made the build
easier/quicker?


I'm not sure about twice, but I could have definately used wider strips.
The cedar that I purchased was only about 5/8 inch thick. That is one
lesson I learned for the next boat.


(ii) how are you going to get the formers out of the ends?


The whole thing is a "clamshell". The deck will be removed from the hull
after the outer skin is fiberglassed, then the forms will all be removed
before glassing the inside and joining the 2 halves.


(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Usenet: like distance learning without the learning.



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Dale Simpson
 
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Default My kayak building page

That kayak looks awesome for a first time! I don't blame you for showing it
off. And by the way, I think your website is just fine!

Dale Simpson




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Gary Wright
 
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Default My kayak building page

In article , "Alex Gross"
wrote:

"Simon Brooke" wrote in message
Very bonnie.

Two questions:

(i) you're using very narrow strips. Do you not think with the easy
lines of this boat you could have used considerably wider strips
(like, twice as wide) and that this would have made the build
easier/quicker?


I'm not sure about twice, but I could have definately used wider strips.
The cedar that I purchased was only about 5/8 inch thick. That is one
lesson I learned for the next boat.



This brings up an issue I have about using construction grade materials. Yes,
you can build a boat from materials conveniently purchased at your local
lumberyard or home building center, but at least consider the alternative - real
boat building lumber.

First, you can get clear boards 18-20 ft long and, if you order 'rough' lumber,
a full one inch in thickness. I've never seen any western red cedar in my local
lumberyard thicker than 3/4 in, and siding is often 5/8 - by the time you bead
and cove the edges of your strips (or cut your bevels) there is nothing left but
a sliver. There isn't much need to specify smooth planned boards, 'cause the
smooth surface is going to end up hidden in the glue between your strips. I
plane the rough boards just enough to be sure they are all the same thickness,
and, after machining my bead and cove edges, the 'rough' surface is gone.

By using full length strips you will avoid the abrupt change in color that too
often results when two shorter strips are joined end-to-end. It's hard for my
eye to caress the curves of a hull without tripping over the glue joints. Tip:
If you MUST use shorter boards, use 3 strips to make 2: As you are ripping your
strips, number the strips in the same order as they were in the board. Cut board
#2 in half and glue the south end of #2 to the south end of #1; glue the north
end of #2 to the north end of #3. Your scarf joints will much less obvious
because the 3 strips (now 2) are all about the same color and texture. Yes,
scarf joints, not butts - they are way better, aesthetically and structurally.

Also, you can specify flat sawn lumber from some boat lumber dealers, so you end
up with edge grain strips. The edge grain strips will be harder (resist denting
better), stiffer (resist oil canning better), and will be easier to fair when
sanding. IMHO, edge grain strips are prettier, too.

Of course there is also a downside to boatyard lumber - unless you happen to
live in a boat lumber producing area like America's Pacific Northwest or SW
Canada, shipping costs are significant. Still, considering the total cost of
your project and the man hours you are going to invest, I believe it's worth the
extra cost and hassle.

Here are some lumber sources that specialize in boat building woods:
http://www.edensaw.com/
http://www.flounderbay.com/index.html

full length bead and cove strips:
http://www.newfound.com/strpinfo.htm
flounder bay (see above)
http://members.aol.com/cedarcanoo/index.htm

-GW
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