'K' -
FWIW -
I have a 'preference' for Philippine Mahogany. The 'reddish' color appeals
to me.

The fact that it is both 'relatively' inexpensive, and quite available,
doesn't hurt either !! I've it takes either 'oiling' {for exterior
hand-holds where GRIP is important} or Varnishing quite readily. The surface
grain is fairly apparent, so if a 'glass smooth' finish is desired . . .
fill it first. {I used it to build a Memorial Flag Case}. NOTE: it holds
screws well, BUT is somewhat 'soft'. While this makes bending easy, screw
heads can be 'pulled in' and the threads stripped out. If you use a 'power
driver', *Pay Attention* to your work {or use a low setting on the clutch}.

From what I've heard & read about Iroko, it's very hard. You have to
pre-drill everything, and it's fairly brittle when bending. I have NOT
worked with it, so this can be said to be, "Here-say evidence . . . not
admissible"

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

PS: I'll shortly be using two 5/4 'slabs' of Philippine Mahogany to 'sister'
repair the 'Tombstone' stern on a dory.

"Over40pirate" wrote in message
...
I am looking for a recomendation for a type of wood to use to replace the
teak
cockpit coamings on my sailboat.
The widest end is 11" and they are 8' long.
Someone recomended Iroko. Is anyone familiar with this wood, and its
suitability? How does it glue, bend? I will need to bend it silghtly.
Thanks in advance, K