I'm putting the final barrier coats of epoxy on my first S&G kayak and
have two questions some of the experiened folks here might know. I'm
using West Epoxy (105) with the 207 Hardener for the barrier coats.

How long do I have to wait before I can paint the hull?

What type of paint would be recommended for someone without a spray
setup for this situation?

Thanks,
Gary

Gary,
I put 5 'barrier coats' on my WWP-19. The first two were 'standard' WEST
System {5:1 ratio}, the third was WEST with some of their 'Barrier Coat
Additive', and the 4th & 5th were Pettit 2-Part Barrier Coat {5th coat
tinted blue}. About 15 mils or more, total. I also added a bit of extra
'glass' under it all, at critical places.

Because your kayak *probably* won't 'live in the water', you shouldn't have
to go to these extremes { YES - a little paranoia is not necessarily bad}.

How long you *should* wait depends on what you intend to do with the kayak,
and the amount of patience you have. If you are just using 'straight' epoxy,
'theoretically' you can paint it after about 7 days - with 70+ degree
daytime temperatures, and not below 50 degrees at night; maybe sooner if the
temperatures are higher. Epoxy *actually* takes several months to *FULLY*
cure under typical temps & humidity. This is the nature of the complex
internal chemical reaction. I would try to give it a full month, at least;
keeping the epoxied surface away from exposure to UV. With the temperatures
dropping {at least here in the Mid-Atlantic area}, I'd finish the kayak and
store it away until next Spring.

However you proceed, and IF she won't be an 'in water vessel' {needing
'Anti-Fouling Paint'}, you have a great many choices. What ever you do, the
FIRST thing is to lightly scrub the epoxied areas with a Scotchbrite Pad and
some warm & mildly soapy water. Rinse well & repeat. Now wipe dry with a LOT
of CLEAN paper towels {I AM paranoid !!}. This is to remove ANY Amine Blush
or other dirt, it also will give some 'tooth' to the epoxied surface . . .
in fact you may want to use an 80 grit Carbide paper for the first 'wash'.

On the 'Cheap' side, a great number of people recommend the 100% Acrylic
'Porch Paint'. Easy to apply, easy to clean up, and no 'bad' solvents. A
dash of 'Flotrol' enhances the application - & allows better control for
'roll & tip' techniques. A tip from the Laboratory people - allow AT LEAST
14 days to 'cure' before handling the painted surface. This is the solution
to the complaints of 'softness' & 'peeling'. Next, there is the 'standard'
Alkyd Porch & Trim paints & enamels {oil based, solvent clean-up}. Lastly,
there are the 'Marine' paints, typically used on Fiberglass/Gelcoat boats -
oil based, solvent clean-up.

The *basic* idea of ANY finish over cured epoxy it to prevent degradation
from UV exposure. "Ye pays your money, & takes y're choice".

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Gary Gabriele" wrote in message
...
I'm putting the final barrier coats of epoxy on my first S&G kayak and
have two questions some of the experiened folks here might know. I'm
using West Epoxy (105) with the 207 Hardener for the barrier coats.

How long do I have to wait before I can paint the hull?

What type of paint would be recommended for someone without a spray
setup for this situation?

Thanks,
Gary

On the 'Cheap' side, a great number of people recommend the 100% Acrylic
'Porch Paint'. Easy to apply, easy to clean up, and no 'bad' solvents. A
dash of 'Flotrol' enhances the application - & allows better control for
'roll & tip' techniques. A tip from the Laboratory people - allow AT LEAST
14 days to 'cure' before handling the painted surface. This is the solution
to the complaints of 'softness' & 'peeling'. Next, there is the 'standard'
Alkyd Porch & Trim paints & enamels {oil based, solvent clean-up}. Lastly,
there are the 'Marine' paints, typically used on Fiberglass/Gelcoat boats -
oil based, solvent clean-up.

The *basic* idea of ANY finish over cured epoxy it to prevent degradation
from UV exposure. "Ye pays your money, & takes y're choice".

I've used both acrylic and regular exterior semi-gloss latex on my small
boats and prefer the acrylic. Like a kayak my boats come into contact with
substances other than water frequently, beaches and roof racks to name a
couple. The acrylic holds up better. I've also painted a daggerboard with
a hard floor paint and then again with the softer latex. The hard paint
stood up to the scraping on the inside of the daggerboard trunk much
better than the softer latex. The soft latex is good for a larger boat
which sits in the water because the latex just sloughs off over time
whereas a hard paint will eventually crack, blister, and peel. The softer
latex is easier to maintain in that situation.

All of my cheap boats are just paint over plywood, no resin under the
paint except along the seams. From the condition of the seams I'm not
convinced resin on top of plywood does much good until its built up to the
point it adds a lot of weight.

I let paint dry for 3 days before putting it in the water.

--
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(William R. Watt) wrote in message ...
On the 'Cheap' side, a great number of people recommend the 100% Acrylic
'Porch Paint'. Easy to apply, easy to clean up, and no 'bad' solvents. A
dash of 'Flotrol' enhances the application - & allows better control for
'roll & tip' techniques. A tip from the Laboratory people - allow AT LEAST
14 days to 'cure' before handling the painted surface. This is the solution
to the complaints of 'softness' & 'peeling'. Next, there is the 'standard'
Alkyd Porch & Trim paints & enamels {oil based, solvent clean-up}. Lastly,
there are the 'Marine' paints, typically used on Fiberglass/Gelcoat boats -
oil based, solvent clean-up.

The *basic* idea of ANY finish over cured epoxy it to prevent degradation
from UV exposure. "Ye pays your money, & takes y're choice".

I've used both acrylic and regular exterior semi-gloss latex on my small
boats and prefer the acrylic. Like a kayak my boats come into contact with
substances other than water frequently, beaches and roof racks to name a
couple. The acrylic holds up better. I've also painted a daggerboard with
a hard floor paint and then again with the softer latex. The hard paint
stood up to the scraping on the inside of the daggerboard trunk much
better than the softer latex. The soft latex is good for a larger boat
which sits in the water because the latex just sloughs off over time
whereas a hard paint will eventually crack, blister, and peel. The softer
latex is easier to maintain in that situation.

All of my cheap boats are just paint over plywood, no resin under the
paint except along the seams. From the condition of the seams I'm not
convinced resin on top of plywood does much good until its built up to the
point it adds a lot of weight.

I let paint dry for 3 days before putting it in the water.

I am like Will, I like paint instead of coats of epoxy although I do
use epoxy sometimes as a sanding sealer. I usually use enamel paint,
sometimes Benjamin Moore, sometimes Interlux Bright sides. The
Interlux dries a little more predictablally and harder, it also
brushed and sprays a little easier. Once Epoxy has had a few days of
good upper 70's with dry conditions, it should be ok to paint over. Be
sure to wash off the blush and rough it up first.

On the other hand, there is a school (one of the big kayak kit
dealers) who reccomends you use your kayak a couple of months with
only epoxy and then paint, or clear coat...

Scotty from SmallBoats.com sorry, to lazy to spell check....