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#1
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Dock Hardware
Hi All,
Anyone know of a place to buy some dock building hardware within driving distance of Philadelphia, PA? I'm planning on building a pipe dock. A lot of the pipe brackets I've seen on the net do not have a locking bolt to keep the pipe from sliding through the sleeve. (For example, the ones sold by West Marine are like this.) I'd like the ones that DO have the locking bolt. Thanks, Julien |
#2
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Dock Hardware
"julien" wrote in message ... Hi All, Anyone know of a place to buy some dock building hardware within driving distance of Philadelphia, PA? I'm planning on building a pipe dock. A lot of the pipe brackets I've seen on the net do not have a locking bolt to keep the pipe from sliding through the sleeve. (For example, the ones sold by West Marine are like this.) I'd like the ones that DO have the locking bolt. Thanks, Julien Try Follansbee Dock Systems State Street PO Box 640 Follansbee WV 26037 304.527.4500/800.223.3444 fax 304 527.4507 http://foldocks.lbcorp.com I've done business with them. Good sevice and catalog etc. probably eveything you could use Kevin |
#3
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Dock Hardware
julien wrote:
Hi All, Anyone know of a place to buy some dock building hardware within driving distance of Philadelphia, PA? I'm planning on building a pipe dock. A lot of the pipe brackets I've seen on the net do not have a locking bolt to keep the pipe from sliding through the sleeve. (For example, the ones sold by West Marine are like this.) I'd like the ones that DO have the locking bolt. Thanks, Julien This would be for a non floating dock? Salt or fresh water? Tidal? How deep? I don't mean to be pedantic, but if your dock floated on pipe pilings, it would not benefit from holes which accelerate rusting. If you want to raise the dock above where it might float, why not drill holes where you want them and use pins or bolts and nuts? Set screw type adjustable height types invariably want at least dimples drilled to stabilize slippery set screws, or lock bolts so tight they deform the round pipe to the point where it binds elsewhere. Even if not, a year later attempts to loosen for re-adjustment may break the bolts, and then what? The price of commercially available dock brackets are silly high, priced for "marine" users. Go to Joe's welding or a scrap yard, whatever, and he will cut up some box or angle iron scrap for about 2 bucks that will replace 20 dollar "dock accessories." New material will not be bright and shiny for long. If you don't do as I say, you place yourself amongst that crowd of aspiring boating snobs who really don't get it. Go ask a commercial fisherman where he gets his "marine steel bits." He cuts his own, or his brother does. It's cheaper to buy a grinder / cutter and welder and learn to use it at a scrap yard and build your own hardware for a dock than it is to buy the parts, especially if you have to "special order" ones with holes. Alternatively, scrapped steel staging could be trimmed up to do what you want, using planks for decking, also much cheaper than instant dock kit stuff. When I started pricing that junk, I near coughed up a kidney. Instead, I made floating dock from oil barrels, snugly bevel planked together with banding into torpedoes with "wet storage" compartments, and laid deck sections on top. They sit on the bottom when the tide is out, and float otherwise. 10 by 8 feet cost me about 100 bucks each and can be disassembled without wading and rolled ashore easily by me and a mate for winter freeze up. Looks cool, too! The ends can be joined with dowels through holes in 2 planks each end a few inches longer than the rest. I think one float could "do" a mooring. If I cast a concrete plate in the mud at low tide, I should be able to lift it at high tide. Then, you have the money left over for a louder stereo, whatever. Oops! on second thought, be sure to order the stainless steel marine grade angle bits. They are a little more, but they are so much more,,, nautical and impressive. What was I thinking;-? Terry K |
#4
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Dock Hardware
Kevin Gunther wrote:
"julien" wrote in message ... Hi All, Anyone know of a place to buy some dock building hardware within driving distance of Philadelphia, PA? I'm planning on building a pipe dock. A lot of the pipe brackets I've seen on the net do not have a locking bolt to keep the pipe from sliding through the sleeve. (For example, the ones sold by West Try Follansbee Dock Systems State Street PO Box 640 Follansbee WV 26037 OK thanks. I think I looked at their website before but I'll take another look. |
#5
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Dock Hardware
Kevin Gunther wrote: Try Follansbee Dock Systems State Street PO Box 640 Follansbee WV 26037 They have been around for at least 30 years. Should be able to solve your problem. Lew |
#6
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Dock Hardware
Terry Spragg wrote:
julien wrote: Anyone know of a place to buy some dock building hardware within driving distance of Philadelphia, PA? I'm planning on building a pipe dock. A lot of the pipe brackets I've seen on the net do not have a locking bolt to keep the pipe from sliding through the sleeve. (For example, the ones sold by West Marine are like this.) I'd like the ones that DO have the locking bolt. This would be for a non floating dock? Salt or fresh water? Tidal? How deep? Non floating, fresh, no tides, 3' to 6' deep I don't mean to be pedantic, but if your dock floated on pipe pilings, it would not benefit from holes which accelerate rusting. If you want to raise the dock above where it might float, why not drill holes where you want them and use pins or bolts and nuts? Set screw type adjustable height types invariably want at least dimples drilled to stabilize slippery set screws, or lock bolts so tight they deform the round pipe to the point where it binds elsewhere. Even if not, a year later attempts to loosen for re-adjustment may break the bolts, and then what? I considered the hole drilling/pin idea, but then I'm stuck keeping the same pole in the same corner, and getting the dock in the exact same spot each spring. However, the drawbacks you are pointing out may change my mind. (Especially the rusting of the lock screw) I was also think of hoseclamps or some such device, but I don't think they'd be strong enough over a whole summer, maybe some other type of hardware might do it. Or, just drilling several holes in each pipe might be simpler. The price of commercially available dock brackets are silly high, priced for "marine" users. Go to Joe's welding or a scrap yard, whatever, and he will cut up some box or angle iron scrap for about 2 bucks that will replace 20 dollar "dock accessories." New material will not be bright and shiny for long. If you don't do as I say, you place yourself amongst that crowd of aspiring boating snobs who really don't get it. Go ask a commercial fisherman where he gets his "marine steel bits." He cuts his own, or his brother does. It's cheaper to buy a grinder / cutter and welder and learn to use it at a scrap yard and build your own hardware for a dock than it is to buy the parts, especially if you have to "special order" ones with holes. I am a snob, but not that kind of snob. I was considering just getting my local metal shop to make some parts, maybe I'll just go ahead and do just that, if I wasn't so lazy. I need to get off my butt and get moving on this. Alternatively, scrapped steel staging could be trimmed up to do what you want, using planks for decking, also much cheaper than instant dock kit stuff. When I started pricing that junk, I near coughed up a kidney. Instead, I made floating dock from oil barrels, snugly bevel planked together with banding into torpedoes with "wet storage" compartments, and laid deck sections on top. They sit on the bottom when the tide is out, and float otherwise. 10 by 8 feet cost me about 100 bucks each and can be disassembled without wading and rolled ashore easily by me and a mate for winter freeze up. Looks cool, too! The ends can be joined with dowels through holes in 2 planks each end a few inches longer than the rest. I think one float could "do" a mooring. If I cast a concrete plate in the mud at low tide, I should be able to lift it at high tide. Then, you have the money left over for a louder stereo, whatever. Oops! on second thought, be sure to order the stainless steel marine grade angle bits. They are a little more, but they are so much more,,, nautical and impressive. What was I thinking;-? Since there's no electricity where I am, the stereo would be a waste. |
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