Hi all,

I appreciate the help on the answers for encapsulating my new deck, the
cabin floor is done and I am working on the back deck area.

I do have one more question though ( for now ). The current supports for
the deck are all side mounted to the stringers (most are just screwed into
the stringers and not bolted through etc). I am replacing them all but had
a different idea I wanted some feedback on.

As is:
Verticle deck supports 1x2's untreated are screwed into hull stringers
and then again screwed into the deck stringers above which were 1x4's 1/2
inch untreated rotted wood.

My idea:
Verticle deck stringers as 4"x4"s pressure treated and cut out to fit
over the hull stringers then bolted through. I wouldn't set the 4x4's
directly on top of the stringers yet put a small foam pad there and leave
like and 1/8 inch. My thought was that would avoid a hard support but also
provide a better mounting system.

Ideas? Is it overkill? bad idea? I want to get this done before the end of
the weekend, but also want to do it right.

Thanks in advance!
Mark.

I left out one thing..

for the horizontal deck supports I would use 1x4x1/2 inch pressure treated
wood. My deck is 3/4 inch marine grade plywood encapsulated in epoxy which
I am painting. This should provide a relatively bounce free floor as well as
be a lasting solution, but I am looking for some opinons.

Thanks again!
Mark

"Mark Davis" wrote in message
link.net...
Hi all,

I appreciate the help on the answers for encapsulating my new deck, the
cabin floor is done and I am working on the back deck area.

I do have one more question though ( for now ). The current supports
for
the deck are all side mounted to the stringers (most are just screwed into
the stringers and not bolted through etc). I am replacing them all but
had
a different idea I wanted some feedback on.

As is:
Verticle deck supports 1x2's untreated are screwed into hull stringers
and then again screwed into the deck stringers above which were 1x4's 1/2
inch untreated rotted wood.

My idea:
Verticle deck stringers as 4"x4"s pressure treated and cut out to fit
over the hull stringers then bolted through. I wouldn't set the 4x4's
directly on top of the stringers yet put a small foam pad there and leave
like and 1/8 inch. My thought was that would avoid a hard support but
also
provide a better mounting system.

Ideas? Is it overkill? bad idea? I want to get this done before the end
of
the weekend, but also want to do it right.

Thanks in advance!
Mark.

Pressure treated sounds like a bad idea, unless you're building a patio
deck. Too many chemicals and way to green. The moisture content is amazing
in that stuff, the amount of movement after fastening will be extreme.

Sounds like your deck is water tight. No need to use special deck beams. Use
some quality (no knots, not purchased at Home Despot) pine and you'll be
fine.

"Mark Davis" wrote in message
link.net...
I left out one thing..

for the horizontal deck supports I would use 1x4x1/2 inch pressure treated
wood. My deck is 3/4 inch marine grade plywood encapsulated in epoxy
which
I am painting. This should provide a relatively bounce free floor as well
as
be a lasting solution, but I am looking for some opinons.

Thanks again!
Mark

"Mark Davis" wrote in message
link.net...
Hi all,

I appreciate the help on the answers for encapsulating my new deck, the
cabin floor is done and I am working on the back deck area.

I do have one more question though ( for now ). The current supports
for
the deck are all side mounted to the stringers (most are just screwed
into
the stringers and not bolted through etc). I am replacing them all but
had
a different idea I wanted some feedback on.

As is:
Verticle deck supports 1x2's untreated are screwed into hull
stringers
and then again screwed into the deck stringers above which were 1x4's
1/2
inch untreated rotted wood.

My idea:
Verticle deck stringers as 4"x4"s pressure treated and cut out to
fit
over the hull stringers then bolted through. I wouldn't set the 4x4's
directly on top of the stringers yet put a small foam pad there and
leave
like and 1/8 inch. My thought was that would avoid a hard support but
also
provide a better mounting system.

Ideas? Is it overkill? bad idea? I want to get this done before the end
of
the weekend, but also want to do it right.

Thanks in advance!
Mark.

I'd go with clear fir, pine will rot like crazy. And I'd use 2x4's for
everything under the deck.
"Eide" wrote in message news:VkOvb.5637$_h.145@lakeread02...
Pressure treated sounds like a bad idea, unless you're building a patio
deck. Too many chemicals and way to green. The moisture content is amazing
in that stuff, the amount of movement after fastening will be extreme.

Sounds like your deck is water tight. No need to use special deck beams.
Use
some quality (no knots, not purchased at Home Despot) pine and you'll be
fine.

"Mark Davis" wrote in message
link.net...
I left out one thing..

for the horizontal deck supports I would use 1x4x1/2 inch pressure
treated
wood. My deck is 3/4 inch marine grade plywood encapsulated in epoxy
which
I am painting. This should provide a relatively bounce free floor as
well
as
be a lasting solution, but I am looking for some opinons.

Thanks again!
Mark

"Mark Davis" wrote in message
link.net...
Hi all,

I appreciate the help on the answers for encapsulating my new deck,
the
cabin floor is done and I am working on the back deck area.

I do have one more question though ( for now ). The current
supports
for
the deck are all side mounted to the stringers (most are just screwed
into
the stringers and not bolted through etc). I am replacing them all
but
had
a different idea I wanted some feedback on.

As is:
Verticle deck supports 1x2's untreated are screwed into hull
stringers
and then again screwed into the deck stringers above which were 1x4's
1/2
inch untreated rotted wood.

My idea:
Verticle deck stringers as 4"x4"s pressure treated and cut out to
fit
over the hull stringers then bolted through. I wouldn't set the 4x4's
directly on top of the stringers yet put a small foam pad there and
leave
like and 1/8 inch. My thought was that would avoid a hard support but
also
provide a better mounting system.

Ideas? Is it overkill? bad idea? I want to get this done before the
end
of
the weekend, but also want to do it right.

Thanks in advance!
Mark.