I am going to buy a pressure feed hvlp gun to spray System Three LPU.
Any help that you could give me regarding your experience with
different gun models, fluid tip sizes and LPU thinning would be
helpful. I am looking at new, used and import guns.

Thanks

Doug

Does the System Three LPU have the same cyanide compounds that the
solvent-based LPUs do? If so, I hope that you'll share with us what kind of
supplied-air respiration equipment yo plan to use. That's an even bigger
mystery.

Doug wrote:

I am going to buy a pressure feed hvlp gun to spray System Three LPU.
Any help that you could give me regarding your experience with
different gun models, fluid tip sizes and LPU thinning would be
helpful. I am looking at new, used and import guns.

Thanks

Doug

One thing you're going to find is that an HVLP gun that has a small enough
fluid tip is not easily found without spending some money. Make super sure
you contact S-III tech support and ask a lot of questions here, and don't
fudge on anything. As far as I know, S-III water-reducible LPU is one of
the toughest coatings to spray well. I survived the process, but the
results could've been finer. Note: I have a DeVilbiss gun and it wasn't
'quite' the right thing, close but not quite. The only ones I saw that let
you go low enough on fluid tip size and had reasonable flow rates that would
work with my compressor were Binks guns. Here's my learnings (in addition
to practice, practice, practice with your spray system and the paint):

Prep and Notes:
- S-III LPU is like a defect-magnifier ...surface preparation, including a
fine and ultra smooth layer of primer, is of ultimate importance. S-III
paint is tough as nails, looks fine, but is cures to a very thin layer that
highlights defects
- I found it necessary to put the clear coat on (they call it 'optional')
and the final finish was still what I'd call 'satin', not 'gloss'. I'd call
the paint without the clear coat 'duller satin'.
- Do not do a large project until well experienced
- When painting in patches (how else?), the paint does not re-flow into
previous patches well. You must spray fast, heavy as you can without
causing runs and sags (this takes judgment), and figure out a spraying
sequence of events that lets you spray only near fresh paint. Example: Mask
off bottom of boat and transom, then spray around perimeter of the boat
sides, starting at one transom corner and ending at the other. After
curing, mask off the sides and spray the bottom and transom.
- The primer cures first by drying (water evaporates and the primer feels
dry) then by curing (epoxy) ...it takes closer to 3 days for a primer coat
to be fully cured. The primer is tough as nails too (good stuff), so sand
early not late. Sand after it dries, but before it 'cures'.
- The paint cures/dries in a funny way. At first, it skins over, then
dries to the point where it feels like a rubbery latex coating (not
sandable), then over the space of a couple of days cures to a harder finish
that you can sand. It is completely cured in 2 or 3 weeks in a warm shop
and it only gets tougher ...same rule as the primer: sand as soon as it is
sandable, not later.
- The catalyst is optional and makes the paint even harder to sand. I only
put it in the last coat and the total result is completely satisfactory in
how tough the paint system is. The only real drawback to the S-III paint is
that it takes experience to apply well and it cures quite thin and so
highlights defects. It is not a high-gloss system.

Application of the primer or paint:
- Spray a couple of cans of water through the shop first to humidify the
place as much as possible
- Thin as described on the label
- Use a very thin fluid tip ...atomizaton is very important with these
products ...not forgiving of a large nozzle (call their tech support and
press them for numbers)
- Do not use too wide of a pattern (outer edges will dry on the way to the
boat)
- Spray heavy enough to allow some re-flow, but not so heavy that the paint
sags or drips. HINT: A cool shop will cause you problems. Make sure you
are at around 70 F or so ...cooler and it may sag, warmer and it cures too
fast.
- Spray your boat in a pattern that avoids overspray onto previously coated
sections ...if more than just a couple of minutes has passed, the paint will
not reflow well and you'll get a 'dull' look where the overspray occurred.

Good luck! It's a good and tough paint system, but being water based
requires skill and experience to apply well.

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"Doug" wrote in message
om...
I am going to buy a pressure feed hvlp gun to spray System Three LPU.
Any help that you could give me regarding your experience with
different gun models, fluid tip sizes and LPU thinning would be
helpful. I am looking at new, used and import guns.

Thanks

Doug

"Doug" writes:

I am going to buy a pressure feed hvlp gun to spray System Three LPU.

SFWIW, the Sterling rep advised against trying to shoot LP with an hvlp
system.

Suggested the DeVilbiss JGA gun along with a remote pressure pot.

Since he has shot a few boats, I took his advice.

Expect to pay $400-$500 for the package based on your negotiating skills.

Best get a respirator specifically designed to handle shooting LP.

3M has one for about $150.

Good luck.



--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message link.net...

Lew

Why did the Sterling rep advise against HVLP for LP?

Doug


"Doug" writes:

I am going to buy a pressure feed hvlp gun to spray System Three LPU.

SFWIW, the Sterling rep advised against trying to shoot LP with an hvlp
system.

Suggested the DeVilbiss JGA gun along with a remote pressure pot.

Since he has shot a few boats, I took his advice.

Expect to pay $400-$500 for the package based on your negotiating skills.

Best get a respirator specifically designed to handle shooting LP.

3M has one for about $150.

Good luck.

"Doug" writes:

Lew

Why did the Sterling rep advise against HVLP for LP?

Ya don't send a boy to do a man's job.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

Did he recommend against an HVLP gun for *all* LPU's? The S-III stuff is
totally different, although I think they typically don't advise the use of
an HVLP gun either. S-III themselves do use HVLP for it though ...at $90+
per gallon though, it's hard to talk yourself into using a conventional gun.
They waste a lot more.

Brian


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...

"Doug" writes:

Lew

Why did the Sterling rep advise against HVLP for LP?

Ya don't send a boy to do a man's job.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the
Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

"Brian D" writes:

Did he recommend against an HVLP gun for *all* LPU's? The S-III stuff is
totally different, although I think they typically don't advise the use of
an HVLP gun either.
snip

This guy has forgotten about more boats he has built than I can remember.

When he speaks, I don't question, I just listen, and put his advice to the
best use possible.

He hasn't steered me wrong yet.

I bought the JGA and moved on.

If I waste a couple of hundred dollars of LP doing a 55 ft boat, so be it.

I will just consider it as part of the job.

I can't answer your questions any more specifically, but I sure am happy the
the JGA & remote pot system.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

I sprayed my boat with the S3 LPU paint about a year and a half ago. I didn't
use the HVLP stuff. I purchased a compressor from Sears and got a general
purpose gun from Home Depot. I had pretty good results. Overspray was a real
problem, however, and a HVLP rig would probably have helped.

Ive got what I would call a 10-foot paint job on the boat. It looks really
great from about 10 feet away.

I am an amateur spray painter and many of my problems were self inflicted. One
jewel I can pass along is that the clear coat has somewhat different qualities
than the pigmented paint. Make sure you adjust your thinner ratio and do some
tests when you get to that stage.

Another builder purchased an HVLP rig (after his boat was already painted) and
has reported good results with the small projects he has tried it on.

You might want to check Bateau2.com and AmatureBoatbuilding.com where they have
forums on boatbuilding and you might find comments on spraying S3 if you do a
search.

Disclaimer: I have no relationship to the companies and web sites mentioned,
other than being a satisfied customer.

JH


Subject: HVLP gun to spray System Three LPU
From: (Doug)
Date: 11/20/2003 8:34 AM Central Standard Time
Message-id:

I am going to buy a pressure feed hvlp gun to spray System Three LPU.
Any help that you could give me regarding your experience with
different gun models, fluid tip sizes and LPU thinning would be
helpful. I am looking at new, used and import guns.

Thanks

Doug

Good advice.
System Three has a brochure that list some spraying recommendations like
pressure, type of tips, technique etc. We ship that literature with the
paint we sell.
I would like to add:
- the System Three LPU is not toxic like Imron or Awlgrip. No need for a
respirator.
- you can achieve a high gloss with Clear Coat on top of the LPU

--
Jacques
http://www.bateau.com

"Brian D" wrote in message
news:lg6vb.255268$HS4.2302128@attbi_s01...
One thing you're going to find is that an HVLP gun that has a small enough
fluid tip is not easily found without spending some money. Make super
sure
you contact S-III tech support and ask a lot of questions here, and don't
fudge on anything. As far as I know, S-III water-reducible LPU is one of
the toughest coatings to spray well. I survived the process, but the
results could've been finer. Note: I have a DeVilbiss gun and it wasn't
'quite' the right thing, close but not quite. The only ones I saw that
let
you go low enough on fluid tip size and had reasonable flow rates that
would
work with my compressor were Binks guns. Here's my learnings (in addition
to practice, practice, practice with your spray system and the paint):

Prep and Notes:
- S-III LPU is like a defect-magnifier ...surface preparation, including
a
fine and ultra smooth layer of primer, is of ultimate importance. S-III
paint is tough as nails, looks fine, but is cures to a very thin layer
that
highlights defects
- I found it necessary to put the clear coat on (they call it 'optional')
and the final finish was still what I'd call 'satin', not 'gloss'. I'd
call
the paint without the clear coat 'duller satin'.
- Do not do a large project until well experienced
- When painting in patches (how else?), the paint does not re-flow into
previous patches well. You must spray fast, heavy as you can without
causing runs and sags (this takes judgment), and figure out a spraying
sequence of events that lets you spray only near fresh paint. Example:
Mask
off bottom of boat and transom, then spray around perimeter of the boat
sides, starting at one transom corner and ending at the other. After
curing, mask off the sides and spray the bottom and transom.
- The primer cures first by drying (water evaporates and the primer feels
dry) then by curing (epoxy) ...it takes closer to 3 days for a primer coat
to be fully cured. The primer is tough as nails too (good stuff), so sand
early not late. Sand after it dries, but before it 'cures'.
- The paint cures/dries in a funny way. At first, it skins over, then
dries to the point where it feels like a rubbery latex coating (not
sandable), then over the space of a couple of days cures to a harder
finish
that you can sand. It is completely cured in 2 or 3 weeks in a warm shop
and it only gets tougher ...same rule as the primer: sand as soon as it is
sandable, not later.
- The catalyst is optional and makes the paint even harder to sand. I
only
put it in the last coat and the total result is completely satisfactory in
how tough the paint system is. The only real drawback to the S-III paint
is
that it takes experience to apply well and it cures quite thin and so
highlights defects. It is not a high-gloss system.

Application of the primer or paint:
- Spray a couple of cans of water through the shop first to humidify the
place as much as possible
- Thin as described on the label
- Use a very thin fluid tip ...atomizaton is very important with these
products ...not forgiving of a large nozzle (call their tech support and
press them for numbers)
- Do not use too wide of a pattern (outer edges will dry on the way to
the
boat)
- Spray heavy enough to allow some re-flow, but not so heavy that the
paint
sags or drips. HINT: A cool shop will cause you problems. Make sure you
are at around 70 F or so ...cooler and it may sag, warmer and it cures too
fast.
- Spray your boat in a pattern that avoids overspray onto previously
coated
sections ...if more than just a couple of minutes has passed, the paint
will
not reflow well and you'll get a 'dull' look where the overspray occurred.

Good luck! It's a good and tough paint system, but being water based
requires skill and experience to apply well.

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"Doug" wrote in message
om...
I am going to buy a pressure feed hvlp gun to spray System Three LPU.
Any help that you could give me regarding your experience with
different gun models, fluid tip sizes and LPU thinning would be
helpful. I am looking at new, used and import guns.

Thanks

Doug