My Ballerina II boat has a marine plywood deck, currently covered with
canvas and Butinox, a proprietory paint coating with a rough surface.

It isn't watertight and water is penetrating beneath the paint/canvas
layer. I'm considering stripping down to the wood and sealing with
Smith Coat Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES)or something similar.

Can anyone provide any guidance?

Ken Fraser
Tobermory, Mull (Scotland)

Hi

"Ken Fraser" skrev i en meddelelse
om...
My Ballerina II boat has a marine plywood deck, currently covered with
canvas and Butinox, a proprietory paint coating with a rough surface.

It isn't watertight and water is penetrating beneath the paint/canvas
layer. I'm considering stripping down to the wood and sealing with
Smith Coat Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES)or something similar.

Can anyone provide any guidance?

Do it as soon as you can, make sure no moisture left and no bad ply,
consider a cheap router to make repairs use Epoxy glue for these, cover with
canvas again once restored.

P.C.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cyber-Boat/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cyber-...ngboat-5meter/

Ken Fraser wrote:

My Ballerina II boat has a marine plywood deck, currently covered with
canvas and Butinox, a proprietory paint coating with a rough surface.

It isn't watertight and water is penetrating beneath the paint/canvas
layer. I'm considering stripping down to the wood and sealing with
Smith Coat Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES)or something similar.

Can anyone provide any guidance?

Ken Fraser
Tobermory, Mull (Scotland)

You might try coating with varnish (with or without solvent thinning). It
should soak into the places where the water leaks in and harden/glue. You
can easily wipe it off the non leaking part of the non skid.

The bad news is you probably have rot under there now due to the water....

So maybe first soaking the area with bleach, (or solvent, etc.) is the
first step.

Use heat lamp to dry the subsurface also use it to heat the surface prior
to coating as the cooling subsurface will draw in the varnish etc. as it
cools.

paul


--


================================================== =====
PAUL OMAN ----- Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.
Frog Pond Hollow - 48 Wildwood Dr - Pittsfield NH 03263
10-4 Monday-Thur EST 603-435-7199 VISA/MC/Discover
http://www.epoxyproducts.com
Boating site: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html
================================================== ======

Well,
It's certainly not a given that your deck will have signifigant rot.
If the deck was built out of quality marine ply, then hopefully
things should be ok once dried out. I would avoid the varnish
solution, as it definitely can not be considered a permanantly
reliable one. Epoxy is just made for this type of situation. It
penetrates the wood, and makes it, for all intents and purposes,
waterproof. Now the situation you have to bear in mind is that you
have end-grain that most surely has not been epoxy sealed all along
the sheer of your deck. Epoxying the top and bottom surfaces will do
nothing for you if that end-grain is not completely sealed with
epoxy...this can quite a lot of epoxy as the end grain sucks it up
like a sponge. The only way to seal this is to remove the deck. This
will make coating the bottom side easier anyways. For the top, I
would cover the deck in Dynel (available from Defender Marine supply
in NY) set in epoxy. This provides a traditional looking finish that
has excellent non-skid characteristics.
Hope this helps
-Eli

Paul Oman wrote in message ...
Ken Fraser wrote:

My Ballerina II boat has a marine plywood deck, currently covered with
canvas and Butinox, a proprietory paint coating with a rough surface.

It isn't watertight and water is penetrating beneath the paint/canvas
layer. I'm considering stripping down to the wood and sealing with
Smith Coat Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES)or something similar.

Can anyone provide any guidance?

Ken Fraser
Tobermory, Mull (Scotland)

You might try coating with varnish (with or without solvent thinning). It
should soak into the places where the water leaks in and harden/glue. You
can easily wipe it off the non leaking part of the non skid.

The bad news is you probably have rot under there now due to the water....

So maybe first soaking the area with bleach, (or solvent, etc.) is the
first step.

Use heat lamp to dry the subsurface also use it to heat the surface prior
to coating as the cooling subsurface will draw in the varnish etc. as it
cools.

paul


--


================================================== =====
PAUL OMAN ----- Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.
Frog Pond Hollow - 48 Wildwood Dr - Pittsfield NH 03263
10-4 Monday-Thur EST 603-435-7199 VISA/MC/Discover
http://www.epoxyproducts.com
Boating site: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html
================================================== ======

On 8 Feb 2004 12:10:57 -0800, (Ken Fraser)
wrote:

My Ballerina II boat has a marine plywood deck, currently covered with
canvas and Butinox, a proprietory paint coating with a rough surface.

It isn't watertight and water is penetrating beneath the paint/canvas
layer. I'm considering stripping down to the wood and sealing with
Smith Coat Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES)or something similar.

Can anyone provide any guidance?

It's best not to coat the deck with epoxy unless you are absolutely
certain no rainwater can get underneath.

Is the canvas failing where the edges of the ply are or in other
places?

If it's going at the edges of the ply then it may be due to movement
caused by expansion and contraction of the supporting timbers.

If it's going in other places then it may because the canvas has not
been painted properly when it was applied. The paint should fill the
weave of the canvas completely and the bond it to the ply leaving no
gap between them.

If you me know which one it is I could come up with some suggestions.

cheers,
Pete.

Ken Fraser
Tobermory, Mull (Scotland)

Hi

"Pete C" skrev i en meddelelse
...
If it's going in other places then it may because the canvas has not
been painted properly when it was applied. The paint should fill the
weave of the canvas completely and the bond it to the ply leaving no
gap between them.

If you find a book about boating from before the hippie age, you will se
that you DO NOT use the paint as resin and the canvas as glasfiber , but
acturly make sure that the canvas Do NOT stick to the deck. The way you make
sure that the canvas DO NOT stick to the deck, is to seal with linseed oil
and water the canvas to make it tight , ------- in the old day's you painted
while the canvas was just damp ,to be sure the paint DID NOT penetrate the
canvas and if it did, the linseed oil shuld make it not happen.
Why , ------- well if you seen the difference you know why, as done right
canvas will last decades but glued with paint, it will not last more than
one or two years.
Another lost art.

P.C.
http://home20.inet.tele.dk/h-3d/

Eli wrote:

Well,
It's certainly not a given that your deck will have signifigant rot.
If the deck was built out of quality marine ply, then hopefully
things should be ok once dried out. I would avoid the varnish
solution, as it definitely can not be considered a permanantly
reliable one. Epoxy is just made for this type of situation. It
penetrates the wood, and makes it, for all intents and purposes,
waterproof. Now the situation you have to bear in mind is that you
have end-grain that most surely has not been epoxy sealed all along
the sheer of your deck. Epoxying the top and bottom surfaces will do
nothing for you if that end-grain is not completely sealed with
epoxy...this can quite a lot of epoxy as the end grain sucks it up
like a sponge. The only way to seal this is to remove the deck. This
will make coating the bottom side easier anyways. For the top, I
would cover the deck in Dynel (available from Defender Marine supply
in NY) set in epoxy. This provides a traditional looking finish that
has excellent non-skid characteristics.
Hope this helps
-Eli

You forgot to mention that he'll need to paint or varnish over the epoxy
to protect it from UV exposure. Otherwise the top surface will degrade
in a matter of months.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 00:38:30 +0100, "P.C."
wrote:

Hi

"Pete C" skrev i en meddelelse
.. .
If it's going in other places then it may because the canvas has not
been painted properly when it was applied. The paint should fill the
weave of the canvas completely and the bond it to the ply leaving no
gap between them.

If you find a book about boating from before the hippie age, you will se
that you DO NOT use the paint as resin and the canvas as glasfiber , but
acturly make sure that the canvas Do NOT stick to the deck. The way you make
sure that the canvas DO NOT stick to the deck, is to seal with linseed oil
and water the canvas to make it tight , ------- in the old day's you painted
while the canvas was just damp ,to be sure the paint DID NOT penetrate the
canvas and if it did, the linseed oil shuld make it not happen.
Why , ------- well if you seen the difference you know why, as done right
canvas will last decades but glued with paint, it will not last more than
one or two years.
Another lost art.

I think that's the right approach for traditionally planked decks
where the planks expand and contract and the gaps in between help
allow any trapped water to dry out - or leak in the boat , but I'm
not sure it's necessary with plywood which is very stable, and where
the layers of glue tend to prevent the wood drying out. Why would you
not want the canvas to stick to the plywood?

cheers,
Pete.

P.C.
http://home20.inet.tele.dk/h-3d/

OK thanks a lot for all the feedback, I'll shortly be investigating further.

Ken