Hi All:

With my bilge system complete I have turned to gutting my 120 VAC shore
power system.

I went to West Marine 2006 catalogue, page 546, item C, Marinco 120 VAC
15 Amp Receptacle. Cost: $32.99 each plus shipping.

So I thought that must be an excellent "marine grade" outlet. Next, I
went to the Marinco website and checked the specs. Wow, solid brass
terminals and zinc plated steel strap. That certainly is the way to go
on a boat. And besides my 120 AC shore power outlet is actually located
"below the water line." I need ten 15 Amp outlets. That should be
about $329.90 plus 10-13 bucks in shipping. Considering that nothing is
more important than the safety of my family and passengers, I better go
with the marine designed outlet.

So I though are there any other 15 amp receptacles that might be
comparable to a "Marine Grade" Marinco outlet from West Marine?


Try this:

Leviton 120 VAC, 15 Amp (#8200-Ivory)
Hospital Grade Receptacle
All metal is solid brass with nickel plate. (Interesting, the Marinco
didn't have nickel plate. Just bare brass.)
Nylon face

Total price when quoted from Platt Electric, a PNW commercial
electrical supply......
$7.00 each. Oh, and they deliver for free!

Lets see........$70.00 total compared to $340.00 plus.

What do you think? Do I dare use a non marine grade electrical outlet
for under the water line applications just to save a few cents? Naa.
Better not risk it.

Bob.

Forget the "marine" stuff, just get regular household stuff. Based on
what the last couple of surveyors on my boat have made me do, make
sure they're all GFCI protected. You can daisy chain them within
reason, so each one doesn't have to be GFCI. Do it now, or your
surveyor will make you refit later.

Bob,
Most of the duplex 5-15(120vw/gnd) available are brass internal.
The big difference you will run into between 0.39 and 7.00 is the connections.
All the good stuff will have binder plates under the screws so that they can
handle stranded wire. Be sure you get this feature.
I like your plan.
Matt Colie

Bob wrote:

Hi All:

With my bilge system complete I have turned to gutting my 120 VAC shore
power system.

I went to West Marine 2006 catalogue, page 546, item C, Marinco 120 VAC
15 Amp Receptacle. Cost: $32.99 each plus shipping.

So I thought that must be an excellent "marine grade" outlet. Next, I
went to the Marinco website and checked the specs. Wow, solid brass
terminals and zinc plated steel strap. That certainly is the way to go
on a boat. And besides my 120 AC shore power outlet is actually located
"below the water line." I need ten 15 Amp outlets. That should be
about $329.90 plus 10-13 bucks in shipping. Considering that nothing is
more important than the safety of my family and passengers, I better go
with the marine designed outlet.

So I though are there any other 15 amp receptacles that might be
comparable to a "Marine Grade" Marinco outlet from West Marine?


Try this:

Leviton 120 VAC, 15 Amp (#8200-Ivory)
Hospital Grade Receptacle
All metal is solid brass with nickel plate. (Interesting, the Marinco
didn't have nickel plate. Just bare brass.)
Nylon face

Total price when quoted from Platt Electric, a PNW commercial
electrical supply......
$7.00 each. Oh, and they deliver for free!

Lets see........$70.00 total compared to $340.00 plus.

What do you think? Do I dare use a non marine grade electrical outlet
for under the water line applications just to save a few cents? Naa.
Better not risk it.

Bob.

Keith wrote:
Based on what the last couple of surveyors on my boat have made me do, make
sure they're all GFCI protected. You can daisy chain them within
reason, so each one doesn't have to be GFCI. Do it now, or your
surveyor will make you refit later.

Hi Kieth:

Ya, whats with that, "thy shalt have ALL GFCI recepticals?" I can
certainly under stand for some or most "wet prone areas," but what
about this story? Last winter the white Carver motor boat three slips
down put an electric heater in his boat to ward off the winter chills.
It gets cold here. We're talking low teens, snow, and 2-3 inches of
ice in the marina.

Carver owner left one through hull valve open.
Heater on to keep boat from freezing.
Marina electricity failed.
Marina power restored after a few hours.
GFCI tripped.
No heat on boat.
Through hull froze, split, and shipped water when tempratures went
above freezing.
Boat sunk.

Personally I would like to have at least one circuit that is not GFCI
protected. Not sure why, call me old fashioned. I am also the kind of
guy who likes real roll-up windows on my car. Yes, I relize the Carver
owner violated a basic winterizing rule: close through hull valves and
drain.

Did the surveyors make the GFCI protection a deal breaker?
Maybe I did not read the ABYC electrical standards closly enough. Does
ABYC require/recomend 100% GFCI protected circuits on boats?
Or are talking bank loan requrments?

Ideas please?
Bob

I don't know about ABYC standards, hopefully someone else does. When I
bought my 1986 Krogen in 2001, the initial surveyor required GFCI's in
the galley and heads. Said nothing about the engine room. The insurance
company also required them based on his recommendations. Fine.

At five years, the insurance company required another survey. This
surveyor recommended GFCI's be put in the engine room outlets, and the
insurance company concurred. Fine again. This still seems to be hit and
miss though... why didn't the first surveyor require them in the engine
room to begin with? Anyway, if I was doing a new build, I'd go ahead
and have them throughout. Of course, you could always have one
regular... just don't tell the surveyor!

On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 09:10:29 -0500, Matt Colie
wrote:

Bob,
Most of the duplex 5-15(120vw/gnd) available are brass internal.
The big difference you will run into between 0.39 and 7.00 is the connections.
All the good stuff will have binder plates under the screws so that they can
handle stranded wire. Be sure you get this feature.
I like your plan.
Matt Colie
Alternatively put "Bootlace Ferrules" on the wires

Richard

Nb "Pound Eater" Parkend G+S

Electricky Dicky wrote:

Alternatively put "Bootlace Ferrules" on the wires



Hello Electricky Dicky Dock:

I've never heard the term "bootlace ferrules" before. I searched
a bit and all the hits I got had .uk or .au in the address. So I am
thinking I may put this term on my list along with
Earthing
Bonnet
Wind screen

Good Idea with the ferrules, but I use 10-12 AWG "butt connectors"
(Now that must be an ugly sight to see). I think they serve a similar
purpose. It saves buying another item that would further complicate my
life.

Thank you