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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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bottom coat
Its almost warm enough to consider working on my old boat again, and so I
have a few questions. My boat is near 16ft, and fiberglass from the 70's (Sunray). It has a severely faded green colored bottom (like pea soup green) given the many years its been around in the sun. Underneath where the sun never gets to, it obviously looks greener and better though. I don't think its ever been painted, but rather the green is from the original gelcoat. It hasn't been waxed for probably over 18 years if ever, although 2 years ago I tried rubbing a bit of a fancy product on it that was suppose to restore the colour and treat any oxidization - but I didn't notice any improvement. I'm looking to repair a few small things in the fiberglass and then paint the entire bottom side to give it a darker, richer colour, and ensure things are sealed. Now, my questions: 1. I'm looking for a bottom coat paint then correct? And this should be antifouling? 2. I don't think I need to dewax the boat, as the weather should have burnt everything off long ago.. it really looks worm, there can't be anything on it. Do I just start painting? 3. Should I spray it, or apply the paint with a brush? 4. How much paint would it take to do a boat this size would you think? It's an old boat, not a show boat and I don't have a large budget for it, so I'm looking to do things the cheaper way. any help is appreciated |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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bottom coat
Chris,
'Faded' or not, the bottom color may NOT be the gelcoat. Either way, especially if you have used some product on it, you WILL have to clean / scrub / sand the bottom. No big deal - these are things you should do to inspect & repair the bottom, anyhow. I use denatured alcohol as my initial cleaner. WEAR GOGGLES and use a LOT of paper towels. It's cheap enough {by the gallon at Home Depot - Paint Department}and fairly innocuous. After a good scrub with the alcohol {if you see color come off, or discoloration on the towels, it's probably NOT colored gelcoat}, use a stiff brush and mild soapy water. Hose off & let dry. At this point inspect the hull . . . WELL. If all is OK, 'scuff sand' the entire bottom. Repair whatever needs to be done . . . with EPOXY. There are several books on how to do almost any type of repair. 'Sealing' and 'Painting' are actually two different things . . . if done properly. First apply a 'barrier coat' . . . about 15-20mils. There are specific products, or you can simply apply two or three coats of epoxy. Use a brush for detail & edge work, and a roller for the large areas. The type of 'Paint' you use depends on the waters you sail in, and the length of time the boat spends in the water. At one end is the boat that is placed in a warm salt-water environment at the beginning of the season, and removed several months later. On the other end is the boat that 'lives' on a trailer and is occasionally 'dunked' in a freshwater lake or river. 'Warm salt' equals an anti-fouling with a high concentration of biocide. The other could get away with a good acrylic enamel {or Marine 'topside' paint} that has had at least 14-days to cure before use. A 16-foot boat probably has a water line of maybe 14-feet. Either way, a quart of paint should give you two coats. The epoxy WILL be more expensive, but it is only done ONCE, and it's nice stuff to have around the house. Besides, the bottom, under the paint, is the part you don't see . . . until there is a catastrophic failure. Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop "Chris" wrote in message ... Its almost warm enough to consider working on my old boat again, and so I have a few questions. My boat is near 16ft, and fiberglass from the 70's (Sunray). It has a severely faded green colored bottom (like pea soup green) given the many years its been around in the sun. Underneath where the sun never gets to, it obviously looks greener and better though. I don't think its ever been painted, but rather the green is from the original gelcoat. It hasn't been waxed for probably over 18 years if ever, although 2 years ago I tried rubbing a bit of a fancy product on it that was suppose to restore the colour and treat any oxidization - but I didn't notice any improvement. I'm looking to repair a few small things in the fiberglass and then paint the entire bottom side to give it a darker, richer colour, and ensure things are sealed. Now, my questions: 1. I'm looking for a bottom coat paint then correct? And this should be antifouling? 2. I don't think I need to dewax the boat, as the weather should have burnt everything off long ago.. it really looks worm, there can't be anything on it. Do I just start painting? 3. Should I spray it, or apply the paint with a brush? 4. How much paint would it take to do a boat this size would you think? It's an old boat, not a show boat and I don't have a large budget for it, so I'm looking to do things the cheaper way. any help is appreciated |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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bottom coat
Fantastic Information Ron,
Yes, My boat will be in the fresh water occasionally and otherwise sit on a trailer. I'll look for some of that denatured alcohol you mention to start my cleaning. Do you know if it damages silicone? My hull has some cracks in it that I plan to fix. I have used Epoxy before for other repairs and plan to do the repair with that rather than poly fiberglass. Based on my use of epoxy before I'd think using the epoxy for a barrier coat would be pretty costly wouldn't it? We're talking the same epoxy that I use for repair, just without any filler, or mat right - liquid only? How much of that would you think would be required? Far less than for general repairs? Finally for a paint I guess I could use a good acrylic enamel or topside paint if I find the right colour. Thanks C. "Ron Magen" wrote in message news:SWaWf.15974$W75.13159@trnddc07... Chris, 'Faded' or not, the bottom color may NOT be the gelcoat. Either way, especially if you have used some product on it, you WILL have to clean / scrub / sand the bottom. No big deal - these are things you should do to inspect & repair the bottom, anyhow. I use denatured alcohol as my initial cleaner. WEAR GOGGLES and use a LOT of paper towels. It's cheap enough {by the gallon at Home Depot - Paint Department}and fairly innocuous. After a good scrub with the alcohol {if you see color come off, or discoloration on the towels, it's probably NOT colored gelcoat}, use a stiff brush and mild soapy water. Hose off & let dry. At this point inspect the hull . . . WELL. If all is OK, 'scuff sand' the entire bottom. Repair whatever needs to be done . . . with EPOXY. There are several books on how to do almost any type of repair. 'Sealing' and 'Painting' are actually two different things . . . if done properly. First apply a 'barrier coat' . . . about 15-20mils. There are specific products, or you can simply apply two or three coats of epoxy. Use a brush for detail & edge work, and a roller for the large areas. The type of 'Paint' you use depends on the waters you sail in, and the length of time the boat spends in the water. At one end is the boat that is placed in a warm salt-water environment at the beginning of the season, and removed several months later. On the other end is the boat that 'lives' on a trailer and is occasionally 'dunked' in a freshwater lake or river. 'Warm salt' equals an anti-fouling with a high concentration of biocide. The other could get away with a good acrylic enamel {or Marine 'topside' paint} that has had at least 14-days to cure before use. A 16-foot boat probably has a water line of maybe 14-feet. Either way, a quart of paint should give you two coats. The epoxy WILL be more expensive, but it is only done ONCE, and it's nice stuff to have around the house. Besides, the bottom, under the paint, is the part you don't see . . . until there is a catastrophic failure. Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop "Chris" wrote in message ... Its almost warm enough to consider working on my old boat again, and so I have a few questions. My boat is near 16ft, and fiberglass from the 70's (Sunray). It has a severely faded green colored bottom (like pea soup green) given the many years its been around in the sun. Underneath where the sun never gets to, it obviously looks greener and better though. I don't think its ever been painted, but rather the green is from the original gelcoat. It hasn't been waxed for probably over 18 years if ever, although 2 years ago I tried rubbing a bit of a fancy product on it that was suppose to restore the colour and treat any oxidization - but I didn't notice any improvement. I'm looking to repair a few small things in the fiberglass and then paint the entire bottom side to give it a darker, richer colour, and ensure things are sealed. Now, my questions: 1. I'm looking for a bottom coat paint then correct? And this should be antifouling? 2. I don't think I need to dewax the boat, as the weather should have burnt everything off long ago.. it really looks worm, there can't be anything on it. Do I just start painting? 3. Should I spray it, or apply the paint with a brush? 4. How much paint would it take to do a boat this size would you think? It's an old boat, not a show boat and I don't have a large budget for it, so I'm looking to do things the cheaper way. any help is appreciated |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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bottom coat
To clarify,
Would I use regular epoxy resin? like e.a.s.t-or..w.e.s.t or are we talking an epoxy paint? "Chris" wrote in message .. . Fantastic Information Ron, Yes, My boat will be in the fresh water occasionally and otherwise sit on a trailer. I'll look for some of that denatured alcohol you mention to start my cleaning. Do you know if it damages silicone? My hull has some cracks in it that I plan to fix. I have used Epoxy before for other repairs and plan to do the repair with that rather than poly fiberglass. Based on my use of epoxy before I'd think using the epoxy for a barrier coat would be pretty costly wouldn't it? We're talking the same epoxy that I use for repair, just without any filler, or mat right - liquid only? How much of that would you think would be required? Far less than for general repairs? Finally for a paint I guess I could use a good acrylic enamel or topside paint if I find the right colour. Thanks C. "Ron Magen" wrote in message news:SWaWf.15974$W75.13159@trnddc07... Chris, 'Faded' or not, the bottom color may NOT be the gelcoat. Either way, especially if you have used some product on it, you WILL have to clean / scrub / sand the bottom. No big deal - these are things you should do to inspect & repair the bottom, anyhow. I use denatured alcohol as my initial cleaner. WEAR GOGGLES and use a LOT of paper towels. It's cheap enough {by the gallon at Home Depot - Paint Department}and fairly innocuous. After a good scrub with the alcohol {if you see color come off, or discoloration on the towels, it's probably NOT colored gelcoat}, use a stiff brush and mild soapy water. Hose off & let dry. At this point inspect the hull . . . WELL. If all is OK, 'scuff sand' the entire bottom. Repair whatever needs to be done . . . with EPOXY. There are several books on how to do almost any type of repair. 'Sealing' and 'Painting' are actually two different things . . . if done properly. First apply a 'barrier coat' . . . about 15-20mils. There are specific products, or you can simply apply two or three coats of epoxy. Use a brush for detail & edge work, and a roller for the large areas. The type of 'Paint' you use depends on the waters you sail in, and the length of time the boat spends in the water. At one end is the boat that is placed in a warm salt-water environment at the beginning of the season, and removed several months later. On the other end is the boat that 'lives' on a trailer and is occasionally 'dunked' in a freshwater lake or river. 'Warm salt' equals an anti-fouling with a high concentration of biocide. The other could get away with a good acrylic enamel {or Marine 'topside' paint} that has had at least 14-days to cure before use. A 16-foot boat probably has a water line of maybe 14-feet. Either way, a quart of paint should give you two coats. The epoxy WILL be more expensive, but it is only done ONCE, and it's nice stuff to have around the house. Besides, the bottom, under the paint, is the part you don't see . . . until there is a catastrophic failure. Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop "Chris" wrote in message ... Its almost warm enough to consider working on my old boat again, and so I have a few questions. My boat is near 16ft, and fiberglass from the 70's (Sunray). It has a severely faded green colored bottom (like pea soup green) given the many years its been around in the sun. Underneath where the sun never gets to, it obviously looks greener and better though. I don't think its ever been painted, but rather the green is from the original gelcoat. It hasn't been waxed for probably over 18 years if ever, although 2 years ago I tried rubbing a bit of a fancy product on it that was suppose to restore the colour and treat any oxidization - but I didn't notice any improvement. I'm looking to repair a few small things in the fiberglass and then paint the entire bottom side to give it a darker, richer colour, and ensure things are sealed. Now, my questions: 1. I'm looking for a bottom coat paint then correct? And this should be antifouling? 2. I don't think I need to dewax the boat, as the weather should have burnt everything off long ago.. it really looks worm, there can't be anything on it. Do I just start painting? 3. Should I spray it, or apply the paint with a brush? 4. How much paint would it take to do a boat this size would you think? It's an old boat, not a show boat and I don't have a large budget for it, so I'm looking to do things the cheaper way. any help is appreciated |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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bottom coat
such as an interlux epoxy sealer paint as those made by w.e.s.t versus boat
building epoxy resin? "Chris" wrote in message .. . To clarify, Would I use regular epoxy resin? like e.a.s.t-or..w.e.s.t or are we talking an epoxy paint? "Chris" wrote in message .. . Fantastic Information Ron, Yes, My boat will be in the fresh water occasionally and otherwise sit on a trailer. I'll look for some of that denatured alcohol you mention to start my cleaning. Do you know if it damages silicone? My hull has some cracks in it that I plan to fix. I have used Epoxy before for other repairs and plan to do the repair with that rather than poly fiberglass. Based on my use of epoxy before I'd think using the epoxy for a barrier coat would be pretty costly wouldn't it? We're talking the same epoxy that I use for repair, just without any filler, or mat right - liquid only? How much of that would you think would be required? Far less than for general repairs? Finally for a paint I guess I could use a good acrylic enamel or topside paint if I find the right colour. Thanks C. "Ron Magen" wrote in message news:SWaWf.15974$W75.13159@trnddc07... Chris, 'Faded' or not, the bottom color may NOT be the gelcoat. Either way, especially if you have used some product on it, you WILL have to clean / scrub / sand the bottom. No big deal - these are things you should do to inspect & repair the bottom, anyhow. I use denatured alcohol as my initial cleaner. WEAR GOGGLES and use a LOT of paper towels. It's cheap enough {by the gallon at Home Depot - Paint Department}and fairly innocuous. After a good scrub with the alcohol {if you see color come off, or discoloration on the towels, it's probably NOT colored gelcoat}, use a stiff brush and mild soapy water. Hose off & let dry. At this point inspect the hull . . . WELL. If all is OK, 'scuff sand' the entire bottom. Repair whatever needs to be done . . . with EPOXY. There are several books on how to do almost any type of repair. 'Sealing' and 'Painting' are actually two different things . . . if done properly. First apply a 'barrier coat' . . . about 15-20mils. There are specific products, or you can simply apply two or three coats of epoxy. Use a brush for detail & edge work, and a roller for the large areas. The type of 'Paint' you use depends on the waters you sail in, and the length of time the boat spends in the water. At one end is the boat that is placed in a warm salt-water environment at the beginning of the season, and removed several months later. On the other end is the boat that 'lives' on a trailer and is occasionally 'dunked' in a freshwater lake or river. 'Warm salt' equals an anti-fouling with a high concentration of biocide. The other could get away with a good acrylic enamel {or Marine 'topside' paint} that has had at least 14-days to cure before use. A 16-foot boat probably has a water line of maybe 14-feet. Either way, a quart of paint should give you two coats. The epoxy WILL be more expensive, but it is only done ONCE, and it's nice stuff to have around the house. Besides, the bottom, under the paint, is the part you don't see . . . until there is a catastrophic failure. Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop "Chris" wrote in message ... Its almost warm enough to consider working on my old boat again, and so I have a few questions. My boat is near 16ft, and fiberglass from the 70's (Sunray). It has a severely faded green colored bottom (like pea soup green) given the many years its been around in the sun. Underneath where the sun never gets to, it obviously looks greener and better though. I don't think its ever been painted, but rather the green is from the original gelcoat. It hasn't been waxed for probably over 18 years if ever, although 2 years ago I tried rubbing a bit of a fancy product on it that was suppose to restore the colour and treat any oxidization - but I didn't notice any improvement. I'm looking to repair a few small things in the fiberglass and then paint the entire bottom side to give it a darker, richer colour, and ensure things are sealed. Now, my questions: 1. I'm looking for a bottom coat paint then correct? And this should be antifouling? 2. I don't think I need to dewax the boat, as the weather should have burnt everything off long ago.. it really looks worm, there can't be anything on it. Do I just start painting? 3. Should I spray it, or apply the paint with a brush? 4. How much paint would it take to do a boat this size would you think? It's an old boat, not a show boat and I don't have a large budget for it, so I'm looking to do things the cheaper way. any help is appreciated |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
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bottom coat
Chris,
First - in speaking about 'protection' DON'T 'think cheap'. YES - shopping & researching for the best deal and a product specific to the task is prudent. There are products SPECIFICALLY designed for 'Barrier Coats'. These are 'task specific'. While not necessarily cheap, they are less costly then an equal volume of WEST epoxy. Epoxy - no matter which GOOD brand {I use RAKA} is a 'multi-task' item. While I get my epoxy in 3-gallon 'batches' {which I find is a good balance for use & economy} you only have a 16-foot boat and no 'future plans' for other epoxy uses. With that in mind, also remember that you are doing repairs, then coating, a relatively 'non-absorbing' hull. Rather then having to 'fill the pores' on a wood hull, then saturate the cloth sheathing, you will only be 'painting on' a couple of coats of 'finish'. Buying epoxy, or 'barrier coat', or good paint by the single quart is the most expensive way to do it. If memory serves, good paint and un-filled epoxy {as a 'finish coat'}will give about 400 sq.ft. per gallon. A 16-ft waterline with a 5-ft beam is about 120 sq.ft. {While you are doing whatever it s that you are doing, I'd add 'striking a waterline' and painting or taping a 'boot top' to my list.}In this case 'More IS Better' - 3 coats will be about 360 sq. ft. You should have more than enough left to do this after the repairs. WEST is NOT 'cheap stuff', but readily available. Other brands may seem cheaper . . . however, remember to add the shipping for a single gallon 'kit'. I'd use the same thinking for the paint topcoat. Typically, the cost of 2-3 individual quarts equals the price of a full gallon. 2 evenly applied finish coats should use about a quart apiece. Nobody says you can't give a third coat . . . especially if the boat will 'live' on the trailer and be subject to the abrasion of repeated launch & recovery cycles, as well as weathering. I also like to have some 'extra' available for touch-ups and the like. Buy a gallon and 2 or 3 empty quart cans. Do all your work / painting. Decant the remainder into the empty cans. Fill COMPLETELY and label, including the DATE, seal tightly and store up-side down. Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop "Chris" wrote in message .. . SNIP Based on my use of epoxy before I'd think using the epoxy for a barrier coat would be pretty costly wouldn't it? We're talking the same epoxy that I use for repair, just without any filler, or mat right - liquid only? How much of that would you think would be required? Far less than for general repairs? SNIP |
#7
posted to rec.boats.building
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bottom coat
Thanks Ron, your information is superb.
As it was warm enough today I just took off the cover on the boat to inspect how it made it through the winter, and I examined the hull. Given a few spots where it obviously struck something, rocks, etc over the years, I can see that it has got to be gelcoat, and definitely not a layer of paint. I think I may go with doing the repairs with the epoxy, and then putting a coat of epoxy over the whole darn thing to seal it up. You're right, as it isn't porous, it shouldn't use too much. but is still far better than something else for protection. The paint I end up using will then have to serve the role of paint and nothing more. "Ron Magen" wrote in message news:0miWf.13786$6%2.13308@trnddc08... Chris, First - in speaking about 'protection' DON'T 'think cheap'. YES - shopping & researching for the best deal and a product specific to the task is prudent. There are products SPECIFICALLY designed for 'Barrier Coats'. These are 'task specific'. While not necessarily cheap, they are less costly then an equal volume of WEST epoxy. Epoxy - no matter which GOOD brand {I use RAKA} is a 'multi-task' item. While I get my epoxy in 3-gallon 'batches' {which I find is a good balance for use & economy} you only have a 16-foot boat and no 'future plans' for other epoxy uses. With that in mind, also remember that you are doing repairs, then coating, a relatively 'non-absorbing' hull. Rather then having to 'fill the pores' on a wood hull, then saturate the cloth sheathing, you will only be 'painting on' a couple of coats of 'finish'. Buying epoxy, or 'barrier coat', or good paint by the single quart is the most expensive way to do it. If memory serves, good paint and un-filled epoxy {as a 'finish coat'}will give about 400 sq.ft. per gallon. A 16-ft waterline with a 5-ft beam is about 120 sq.ft. {While you are doing whatever it s that you are doing, I'd add 'striking a waterline' and painting or taping a 'boot top' to my list.}In this case 'More IS Better' - 3 coats will be about 360 sq. ft. You should have more than enough left to do this after the repairs. WEST is NOT 'cheap stuff', but readily available. Other brands may seem cheaper . . . however, remember to add the shipping for a single gallon 'kit'. I'd use the same thinking for the paint topcoat. Typically, the cost of 2-3 individual quarts equals the price of a full gallon. 2 evenly applied finish coats should use about a quart apiece. Nobody says you can't give a third coat . . . especially if the boat will 'live' on the trailer and be subject to the abrasion of repeated launch & recovery cycles, as well as weathering. I also like to have some 'extra' available for touch-ups and the like. Buy a gallon and 2 or 3 empty quart cans. Do all your work / painting. Decant the remainder into the empty cans. Fill COMPLETELY and label, including the DATE, seal tightly and store up-side down. Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop "Chris" wrote in message .. . SNIP Based on my use of epoxy before I'd think using the epoxy for a barrier coat would be pretty costly wouldn't it? We're talking the same epoxy that I use for repair, just without any filler, or mat right - liquid only? How much of that would you think would be required? Far less than for general repairs? SNIP |
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