Oh sure they will. You can either put the bare wire there, or fix a terminal
to the wire and fasten it to the screw on the side.

--


Keith
__
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
"Rod McInnis" wrote in message
...

"Michael Sutton" wrote in message
om...


When boat manufacturers install 110v wiring in a boat at
the factory for the "house" 110v circuits (like lights, plugs,
A/C, tv, etc..) what do they use?



Stranded wire.

Note that the electrical outlets are different than the typical household
outlets as a result. An outlet that is designed for solid wire won't work
for stranded.

Rod

I refuse to get into useless debates based on absolutely ridicules
assertions...so I'm going to stop right here and avoid the name calling that
usually comes next. But I can give many examples that will prove the
statement below completely unfounded. I solder all of the wires on trailers
that I build (and I build a lot of them) and they are subjected to lots of
movement and vibration and never fail. Sometimes the wires will get pulled
apart but not the soldered joint. Huge numbers of soldered electronic
equipment in high vibration service routinely last a lifetime without
failure. The mechanical connection is far more likely to loosen, that's why
we have loctite and NyLocks. Anyway, my participation in this thread is
ended. It is obvious that Jax is more interested in "winning arguments"
than in meaningful posts and in reading some of his past posts, name calling
is next.

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
Would you mind explaining exactly how a solder connection fails "under
high
load conditions"

when the connection is soldered it lacks mechanical integrity. solder is
soft
and any chance of movement -- any, even walking on a floor near the
equipment
in a building -- loosens the connection until it eventualy fails. Even if
after soldering the connection is clamped TIGHTLY with a mechanical clamp
it
eventually fails.

If the connection is FIRST clamped TIGHTLY mechanically and _then_
soldered for
corrosion protection all if right and holy.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:G5vtc.3$W01.0@okepread01...


Note that the electrical outlets are different than the typical
household outlets as a result. An outlet that is designed for solid
wire won't work for stranded.

They are exactly the same. You just don't use the push in connector.
Use the screw terminals with crimp on ring terminals.

The marine grade electrical outlets that I have used all have a clamp system
for securing stranded wire. You insert the wire into the hole in the back,
just like the household units. But instead of it being a "one way" catch,
the screw on the side tightens down the clamp.

Rod

"none" wrote in message
news


For the willing: solid wire is intended for Ac because the current travels
thru the average of the thicknessas it alternates polarity. Dc travels on
the outside (skin effect) due to mutual repulsion of the electrons;


You have that backwards. Skin effect is an AC phenomenon. Here, check out
this web page from Institute for Telecommunications Sciences:
http://www.its.bldrdoc.gov/fs-1037/dir-033/_4923.htm

Note that skin effect is only significant at high frequencies. There is no
significant skin effect at 60 cycle per second.

Rod

I didn't know that. Why is it not safe? What problems can it cause?

Thanks - Dan

wrote:
On Thu, 27 May 2004 19:03:47 -0500, dazed and confuzed
wrote:


QLW wrote:

I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long
enough to last until the end of the warranty.


Power wires should NEVER be soldered. It's against NEC and NFPA code
for good reason. It's not safe.

BB

--
Dan Best - (707) 431-1662, Healdsburg, CA 95448
B-2/75 1977-1979
Tayana 37 #192, "Tricia Jean"
http://rangerbest.home.comcast.net/TriciaJean.JPG

NEVER solder an electrical connection within a vehicle or any machine that
is subject to motion or vibration. The solder creates a stress concentration
at the end of the solder, which in time will cause the wire to break right
at the joint. That is why it should never be done. Those that have done this
and not experienced a failure are simply lucky.
Steve

"QLW" wrote in message
...
I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Ytter,
As a rule you should use FINE tin plated stranded wire. It should be
sheathed with either fiberglass or metal braiding. It can be ordered
from
an
industrial wire supply house. It cost more than other type wire, but the
overall cost difference at the job level is minimal. Just as
importantly,
you should consider the mode of most common failure of wiring. That is
corrosion at the wire terminal interface. To avoid the moisture
migration
cause, you should use crimp terminals without insulation and a crimping
tool
that provides enough pressure that the terminal to wire connection
actually
welds. Then shrink tubing is applied and after the terminal is installed
the
entire connection should be painted with a rubber compound. This also
can
be
ordered from the industrial supplier or directly from OMC.
Steve

"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

Tom, you are incorrect. A solder joint under vibration can easily create a
resistive connection and it can be undetectable until it overheats. Please
review my previous advice and use a crimping tool that creats a very high
pressure crimp.
Steve

"Tom Shilson" wrote in message
...
dazed and confuzed wrote:


Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long
enough to last until the end of the warranty.


I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder
gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion.

Tom
of the Swee****er Sea

If the connection is crimped first, you have it correct. Additional
soldering will create the stress concentration, which can fail slowly
through minute cracks creating a resistive connection, which allows more and
more circuit voltage to drop accross the joint. This heats the joint, and
creates enbrittlement of the joint and wire and so on. This is not rocket
science folks. It is common sense.
Steve

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
Would you mind explaining exactly how a solder connection fails "under
high
load conditions"

when the connection is soldered it lacks mechanical integrity. solder is
soft
and any chance of movement -- any, even walking on a floor near the
equipment
in a building -- loosens the connection until it eventualy fails. Even if
after soldering the connection is clamped TIGHTLY with a mechanical clamp
it
eventually fails.

If the connection is FIRST clamped TIGHTLY mechanically and _then_
soldered for
corrosion protection all if right and holy.

JAXAshby wrote:
I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.


solder connections fail under high load conditions
mechanical stress loads or electrical loads?

--
the most committed always win

Keith wrote:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com has pretty good prices on tinned marine
wire. It's not Ancor brand, but the same spec. Also, our local Home Depot
acutally carries a decent selection of marine stuff, including wire, nylon
terminals, etc.

Oh yea, while on the subject of terminals, be sure to use a good double
crimp ratcheting crimper and good terminals. You can find both at
http://www.terminaltown.com. They have all kinds of wiring stuff, including
mil spec connectors if you're really picky!

THe ratcheting crimper is the key. Properly done, a crimp connection is
as good as a soldered joint.

--
the most committed always win