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#1
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Stitch & glue, cable ties?
I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly
Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan |
#2
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Stitch & glue, cable ties?
"Jonathan" wrote in message ... I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan Yes you can. Use as few as possible to keep the shape fair, more in areas of high curvature, typically near the bow. -- Evan Gatehouse you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me ceilydh AT 3web dot net (fools the spammers) |
#3
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Stitch & glue, cable ties?
"Jonathan" wrote in message ... I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan Yes you can. Use as few as possible to keep the shape fair, more in areas of high curvature, typically near the bow. -- Evan Gatehouse you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me ceilydh AT 3web dot net (fools the spammers) |
#4
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Stitch & glue, cable ties?
You can go that route.
Here's how I do it (I'm sure not everyone will agree). Keep in mind I just do kayaks and canoes. I do "tack welds". The hull is stitched together and then I apply a small amount of filleting material on each side of the cable tie and let it cure (don't forget to precoat the weld areas with some resin). Then I cut the cable ties/stitches and remove. Fill in the holes as you fillet the seams. You have to be careful doing this as the tack welds will crack if you shift the hull. That's why I'll only do this process one seam at a time...tack weld, remove stitches, seam fillet, glass, and then repeat. It's some extra steps but it's how I prefer it. -- Matt Langenfeld JEM Watercraft jemwatercraft.com Jonathan wrote: I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan |
#5
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Stitch & glue, cable ties?
"Evan Gatehouse" wrote in message ...
"Jonathan" wrote in message ... I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan Yes you can. Use as few as possible to keep the shape fair, more in areas of high curvature, typically near the bow. With all due respect to Evan I have another opinion to share. You can use plastic ties but don't. Go to home depot or such and get some 7 strand copper ground wire, or a couple of packages of 18 guage copper wire, cut it into 4" pieces and fold them over so they look like "U" nails. The seven strand is thicker but of course holds better. Plastic ties can not be easily re-opened and tweaked during your tie up and there will be times when you want to loosen one or two and readjust, with ties you can only cut and redo them if that need arises and completely cutting them to adjust can cause even more problems. Ties click, and sometimes to get things really fair, you could use a half a click, not possible with ties. Copper is much easier to shape and string through the holes, you can use a much smaller hole, you just have a lot more control. As to sanding, snip the copper off low with snips and then touch gently a few times with your sander and it should come right down fair, they will sand down just fine with a little soft touch. You may rip a couple of pieces of paper but all in all after some 70 stitch and tape boats, having tried almost everything, I still use copper wire. I do keep a lot of sizes on hand but only for flexability with custom work. Scotty, back to the hunt.. |
#6
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Stitch & glue, cable ties?
thank you for the information.
i think i will go for the copper solution, looks like the moste logical...for adjusting and so on... how would be the best way to glue the two parts toghether? (sorry for such a stupid question, but im a newbie :-) ) mat "Backyard Renegade" wrote in message om... "Evan Gatehouse" wrote in message ... "Jonathan" wrote in message ... I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan Yes you can. Use as few as possible to keep the shape fair, more in areas of high curvature, typically near the bow. With all due respect to Evan I have another opinion to share. You can use plastic ties but don't. Go to home depot or such and get some 7 strand copper ground wire, or a couple of packages of 18 guage copper wire, cut it into 4" pieces and fold them over so they look like "U" nails. The seven strand is thicker but of course holds better. Plastic ties can not be easily re-opened and tweaked during your tie up and there will be times when you want to loosen one or two and readjust, with ties you can only cut and redo them if that need arises and completely cutting them to adjust can cause even more problems. Ties click, and sometimes to get things really fair, you could use a half a click, not possible with ties. Copper is much easier to shape and string through the holes, you can use a much smaller hole, you just have a lot more control. As to sanding, snip the copper off low with snips and then touch gently a few times with your sander and it should come right down fair, they will sand down just fine with a little soft touch. You may rip a couple of pieces of paper but all in all after some 70 stitch and tape boats, having tried almost everything, I still use copper wire. I do keep a lot of sizes on hand but only for flexability with custom work. Scotty, back to the hunt.. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.708 / Virus Database: 464 - Release Date: 18/06/2004 |
#7
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Stitch & glue, cable ties?
"Matthias Broersma" wrote...
how would be the best way to glue the two parts toghether? (sorry for such a stupid question, but im a newbie :-) ) For their kayak kits, Pygmy Boats recommends you simply fill in the outside seam with thickened epoxy (use wood flour if you will finish it bright; wood flour or silica if you will paint it) to glue the panels together, then remove the wires before doing any taping. The epoxy glues the joint and serves as the base for the tape/cloth wrapped around the joint, reducing the probability of voids under the tape. If you pull the wires before the epoxy fully cures (within 24 hours), it is possible to snip and pull out most, if not all the wires before laying any cloth or tape. Then fair the areas around the holes. Small voids, as well as the wire holes, will fill in when you saturate the tape/cloth with epoxy. After that, lay the cloth or tape on the outside and squeegee in the epoxy. Finally, fillet the inside joint with thickened epoxy before taping. The rounded fillet will give more strength than the sharp turn of tape/cloth. |
#8
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Stitch & glue, cable ties?
"Matthias Broersma" wrote...
how would be the best way to glue the two parts toghether? (sorry for such a stupid question, but im a newbie :-) ) For their kayak kits, Pygmy Boats recommends you simply fill in the outside seam with thickened epoxy (use wood flour if you will finish it bright; wood flour or silica if you will paint it) to glue the panels together, then remove the wires before doing any taping. The epoxy glues the joint and serves as the base for the tape/cloth wrapped around the joint, reducing the probability of voids under the tape. If you pull the wires before the epoxy fully cures (within 24 hours), it is possible to snip and pull out most, if not all the wires before laying any cloth or tape. Then fair the areas around the holes. Small voids, as well as the wire holes, will fill in when you saturate the tape/cloth with epoxy. After that, lay the cloth or tape on the outside and squeegee in the epoxy. Finally, fillet the inside joint with thickened epoxy before taping. The rounded fillet will give more strength than the sharp turn of tape/cloth. |
#9
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Stitch & glue, cable ties?
"Matthias Broersma" matthias.broersmaATNOSPAMPLEASEfastwebnet.it wrote in message li.nl...
thank you for the information. i think i will go for the copper solution, looks like the moste logical...for adjusting and so on... how would be the best way to glue the two parts toghether? (sorry for such a stupid question, but im a newbie :-) ) mat You will need to build a lamination of epoxy and fiberglass on either side or the seam. You really should get ahold of the book "Build the new instant boats" by Dynamite Payson, available at "instantboats.com" or the local library or bookstore. Anyway, it is a quick read and will walk you through the whole stitch and tape process start to finish and add enough info so you don't have to spend your days here. After reading this book you will have most of it down, no problem, especially having experience with tools. It's a quick read, hour at the most, less than 200 pages and filled with pictures and plans for 6 other small boats... Scotty who does have a business realationship with Dynamite that is not necessarily related to building boats, however, I get no commissions or similar for my suggestions here on the list.. "Backyard Renegade" wrote in message om... "Evan Gatehouse" wrote in message ... "Jonathan" wrote in message ... I am about to embark on building a 10 ft stitch and glue dinghy, a Dudly Dix, Argie 10. I would think this has been asked, but so far I haven't found it. Can I use those plastic self cinching cable ties to hold the panels together until I glass them? I would think they would sand off more smoothly than wire? Any thoughts? Jonathan Yes you can. Use as few as possible to keep the shape fair, more in areas of high curvature, typically near the bow. With all due respect to Evan I have another opinion to share. You can use plastic ties but don't. Go to home depot or such and get some 7 strand copper ground wire, or a couple of packages of 18 guage copper wire, cut it into 4" pieces and fold them over so they look like "U" nails. The seven strand is thicker but of course holds better. Plastic ties can not be easily re-opened and tweaked during your tie up and there will be times when you want to loosen one or two and readjust, with ties you can only cut and redo them if that need arises and completely cutting them to adjust can cause even more problems. Ties click, and sometimes to get things really fair, you could use a half a click, not possible with ties. Copper is much easier to shape and string through the holes, you can use a much smaller hole, you just have a lot more control. As to sanding, snip the copper off low with snips and then touch gently a few times with your sander and it should come right down fair, they will sand down just fine with a little soft touch. You may rip a couple of pieces of paper but all in all after some 70 stitch and tape boats, having tried almost everything, I still use copper wire. I do keep a lot of sizes on hand but only for flexability with custom work. Scotty, back to the hunt.. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.708 / Virus Database: 464 - Release Date: 18/06/2004 |
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