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#11
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posted to rec.boats.building
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scbafreak via BoatKB.com wrote:
I have two options. Option one is two go with the 42' boat with a build time of 10,000 to 12,000 hours rather than the 49' with a build time of 14,000 to 18,000 hours. Option two is to build as much as is needed for it to be I'm going to go on for a bit. Please excuse the ramble. 1) The average person in the US, if they work full time @ 40 hrs/week, less some stat holidays, etc. is working 2000 hours a year. So if you work on the 49' boat full time, 5 days a week, #2 will take at least 9 years of solid labour. That's way too long. Both are too long IMO. First time builders usually hit or exceed the longer range of construction time estimates by the way. 2) Don't move into a project that is underway. Your productivity will go way down when you have to unstick the cereal box from the freshly varnished cabinetry. 4) Buy a boat instead. It's far more rational. http://www.theyachtmarket.com/static...chooner_1.html Here's a bunch. Some maybe in your price range. 5) I'm currently on a rebuilding project of a 40' catamaran. Much smaller project than building a whole boat, though still significant. I probably only have 700 hours (bit of a WAG) into it so far, because I have a family and a young daughter who I want to spend time with just as much as I want to build the boat. Timelime so far: Winter/Spring 2005 - prefabricating composite cabin panels. Summer 2005 - haulout for 1 month. Chainsaw out old middle bridgedeck. De-step mast, new carbon fiber mast beam, install new diesel, new bridgedeck cabin sole, cockpit sole. Cabin panels screwed/some glassed into position. Mast restepped and back in the water. Lots of help from friends that month Summer 2005 - taping external seams/fairing Fall 2005 - taping internal seams/fairing/painting inside cabin Winter 2005/6 - fabricate bridgedeck cabin furniture Spring 2006 - carbon fiber chainplates, install windows & hatches Summer 2006 - fairing, fairing, more fairing Fall 2006 - starting to paint exterior Winter 2006/7 - new galley cabinets, install stove, sinks, cabinetry [do you call it cabinetry if it's made of carbon fiber/Nomex?] - redo electrical system Spring 2007 - install deck hardware, finish painting, finish building dinghy Summer 2007 - go sailing for a change Fall 2007 - install some systems (hot water heater, cabin heater, pressure water, watermaker) Winter 2007/8 - fabricate and install carbon fiber radar arch/dinghy davits/solar panel stuff Spring 2008 - buy the electronics, install, more lockers in cabins etc. etc. etc. Summer 2008 - just leave 'cause it will never be finished anyway ![]() You may begin to get the idea of how long this sort of project will take if you are not working on it full time. Progress can be measured in decades and there are many busted dreams along the way. I'm a naval architect/marine engineer so designing the cabin structure and dealing with mechanical systems is simple to me. It's also not my first boat. We have a clear vision of the steps needed, the timeline and budget required, and the goal (leaving for offshore cruising summer 2008). Good luck with your dream. My boatbuilding blog: www.maiaaboard.blogspot.com Evan Gatehouse |
#12
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posted to rec.boats.building
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If you like the idea of building in steel, Thomas Colvin has some nice
designs. I just finished reading his two-part book, "Steel Boatbuilding", and while I've never worked with steel outside of welding class, his instructions seem clear and straightforward. The books use a "pinky schooner" design as an example. I'm no schooner expert, but it's a handsome 42-footer, to my eye. His website is: http://www.thomasecolvin.com/ He's run his own yard and build his own designs, so that's some guarantee that he thought of the builder when he drew it. Best of luck on your project. -Maxime Camirand snip P.S. If anyone out there has any recommendations about a designer that designs "classic" style boats, let me know. While fast is nice it isn't the most important thing to me. I plan to live on this boat and I would like to come home every day and be in awe of my own boat moreso than any other boat in the marina. I guess I have a sentimental heart after all. -- Message posted via http://www.boatkb.com |
#13
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posted to rec.boats.building
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scbafreak via BoatKB.com wrote:
Not many designers draw these styles of boats. Most are sleek and pointed and not my style. I really like the old "Pirate Ship" style and I want it to be as much along the style of old sailing ships as possible while still being safe and capable. You have to ask yourself why the best designers are not making piratey boats. The boats that you like are not very seaworthy, need a large crew, probably can't survive being rolled by a wave, are very heavy and very slow. The pointy boats that you seem dislike are easy to drive with a small crew, are very efficient, go faster, use less fuel when motoring, and are way, way easier and cheaper to build. As somebody who is building a steel boat I have the following recomendations. Don't dismiss them too quickly, they come from experience: 1) Buy a small boat to develop your skills as a sailor, to know how things work, and how much you can take it out there. A 20+ footer would do. More than a few would-be sailors spent fortunes and precious time before realizing that they (or their spouses) hate life inclined at 20 degrees or that they get seasick easily. 2) Try to get one of those pointy boats designs that offer the possibility of buying already cut plates. Cutting plate is boring, unhealthy, expensive and time-consuming. If I had to start again I'll buy the already cut kit and, probably, I'd have saved money. The gunk left by a plasma cutter would make a lead mine worker choke. The other methods are dirtier. 3) The least important consideration of a boat is looks. You can make a boat that sails well and has robustness look prettier. But you can't make a pretty hunk of steel sail well in heavy seas if it does'nt do it already. 4) Count that it would take at least 3 times longer to build it that your most pesimistic estimate. And it would cost at least 50% more than you expected. 5) The best boat in the world is worthless if you are too old to sail it. Do something that would put you in the water soon. I remember reading about a guy that spent 30 years building a ferrocement boat. When he finished he was in his 80's, way too old to enjoy iy. Good luck, and don't be stubborn: the best sailors are flexible types. |
#14
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posted to rec.boats.building
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dprou wrote:
Good luck, and don't be stubborn: the best sailors are flexible types. Now *there* is some darn good advice. DSK |
#15
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posted to rec.boats.building
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As someone who takes pretty good care of his health and also works with
steel every day as my full time occupation i have to take a bit of exception to this.... Cutting can be a health hazard, but it doesnt have to be. With adequate ventilation, it can actually be a pleasant experience, if you've got a mind for it ;-) Cutting is a skill just like any other though, and one that takes time to learn. If you have a lot of cutting to do, take the time to learn how to do it properly. Plasma is still pretty pricey, and ive seen a lot of variation in the quality of plasma machines. I still wouldnt consider using a single phase machine just yet, and the consumables sure do cost! cheap plasma machines give pretty poor results regardless of price, and once you arc out the tip of them they are abysmal. you will arc the tip out a lot unless you have a set of wheels to keep it off the surface of the material. plasma is nice though in that it will cut a broad range of materials. Oxy cutting is still the way to go i think, and i generally choose oxy cuttiong over other methods unless i have to cut aluminum or thin sheetmetal, in which case plasma is by far faster and neater. Oxy cutting can be fast and clean, but there's a fine line to adjusting the torch correctly.... I still dont get it perfect all the time. You can use LPG/oxygen for cutting if you want to save money. When you mark out the plate, use a centre punch to mark the chalk line, so after you cut it and the chalk line is gone you'll be able to see if you hit your mark, and if not, y how much. Start with a good clean tip, adjust it correctly and move at the right speed and you can cut through 1" 1/2 plate cleanly with no mess to be grinded. the biggest fear of cutting your own plate is making a mistake when you mark it out. That can *really* cost you some big money. If you can use CAD you can get your plate cut at any plasma/profile cutting/laser shop for not a lot of $. If you have other things to be cut as well then this can be worth your time... laser can cut timber and plastics as well as stainless and pretty much anything, so you could have most of your boat cut out in a single run and save a bit of money on materials if you take your time and work out what you can fit on a sheet. Id probably go that route if i was going to get my timber and windows all done... If it was just steel, i'd just it myself. you can cut a *lot* of steel in a week On top of this, the oxy needs no power, can be carried with you just about anywhere, can be used to braze/solder and fusion weld, is useful for freeing seized nuts/bolts and good for bending. can also be used to heat up a cup of coffee in a pinch ;-) Shaun 2) Try to get one of those pointy boats designs that offer the possibility of buying already cut plates. Cutting plate is boring, unhealthy, expensive and time-consuming. If I had to start again I'll buy the already cut kit and, probably, I'd have saved money. The gunk left by a plasma cutter would make a lead mine worker choke. The other methods are dirtier. |
#16
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Hi All,
I just had to jump into this discussion. In 1982?? I purchased the plans for the 44-40 and immediately started construction. I was working solely on my own and anticipated having to relocate from one Asian location to another so I started building components that could be readily moved. I built the dinghy first just to get a handle on what tools I would need and to practice the layup of the cold molded construction. I finished all of the interior components and started building ribs. I finished 1/3 of the ribs and bulkheads and then was transferred. Rather than moving everything I stored everything with the knowledge I would be returning in a year or so. Unfortunately my storage went underwater from a prolonged flood! When I reviewed the damage it was clear that little was salvageable. I can attest that the plans are extremely detailed and refute the idea that this can't be built by a "homebuilder". I am saddened by my loss but just don't have enough years left to start over. I have the complete drawings and detailed manual for anyone interested in building a truly beautiful boat. Drop me a line. On Saturday, 4 November 2006 06:42:25 UTC+7, scbafreak via BoatKB.com wrote: I am considering building a boat and in my obsession I have been looking at designs. Here is the deal. I have been looking at the Bruce Roberts Centennial Spray 45 or 50 and the Bombigher 38-40 or 44-40. I like the look of the Bombigher immensley. I saw the design and loved it, I saw photos of completed boats and love them as well. This is not to say that I don't like the BR C-Spray. It is a beautiful boat but not exactly what I want. Close, but not all the way the way there. Here is the down side. I don't know if I can get any support from Bombigher, considering that he is no longer among the living, and BR states very clearly that you get as much support as you think you need. Bombigher has stated that all of there designs have very extensive instructions and this fact may make it so i wont really need support I can't get elsewhere. Also, as much as I like the look of the designs, I don't know enough about these boats to tell what would make a better sailboat. I plan to be a live-aboard and eventually do extensive blue water cruising. This is all stuff I need to learn more about over the years of planning and building but while considering future plans in building, I am curious as to the opinions of others about these designs. Not many designers draw these styles of boats. Most are sleek and pointed and not my style. I really like the old "Pirate Ship" style and I want it to be as much along the style of old sailing ships as possible while still being safe and capable. I would consider another designer if they are superior in safety and support for the builder as long as there designs are along the sort I am looking at. -- Message posted via BoatKB.com http://www.boatkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/build/200611/1 |
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