I am getting ready to spray Imron with a tubrine operated HVLP gun, as
opposed to a conversion gun which operates with an air compressor.

I know that are some real painting experts in this group so I hope one
of them will take the time to give me a little help with the following
questions:

1. Will a turbine HVLP gun atomize sufficiently to give me good
results?

2. I have some Interlux primer made for their Perfection lineau
polyruethane and wonder if I could use that as a primer or do I have
to use a two-part epoxy primer?

3. As I do this I need to paint a piece of aluminum that has become
pitted. Would West System mixed with their aluminum dust be a good
filler for pitting in the aluminum and could I also use the Interlux
primer under the Imron. Of course, I would etch the alum prior to
application of the primer.

Thanks for your help.

Joe

The linear polyurethane (LPU) paints such as Imron, Awlgrip and Perfection
contain cyanide compounds which are VERY TOXIC. These compounds cause brain,
liver and lung damage. When the paints are rolled or brushed, the nasty
stuff stays on the boat and only solvents get into the air. An organic
vapor respirator can deal with that. When the PAINTS are sprayed, an
aerosol of paint droplets, containing the nasty cyanide compounds, is in the
air. The only breathing apparatus which effectively protects the painter
are the 'supplied air' respirators. These start at about $1K. An ordinary
respirator won't do it.. DO NOT SPRAY LPU PAINTS WITHOUT ONE.

"Joe Bleau" wrote in message
...
I am getting ready to spray Imron with a tubrine operated HVLP gun, as
opposed to a conversion gun which operates with an air compressor.

I know that are some real painting experts in this group so I hope one
of them will take the time to give me a little help with the following
questions:

1. Will a turbine HVLP gun atomize sufficiently to give me good
results?

2. I have some Interlux primer made for their Perfection lineau
polyruethane and wonder if I could use that as a primer or do I have
to use a two-part epoxy primer?

3. As I do this I need to paint a piece of aluminum that has become
pitted. Would West System mixed with their aluminum dust be a good
filler for pitting in the aluminum and could I also use the Interlux
primer under the Imron. Of course, I would etch the alum prior to
application of the primer.

Thanks for your help.

Joe

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 19:20:40 -0400, "Jim Conlin"
wrote:

The linear polyurethane (LPU) paints such as Imron, Awlgrip and Perfection
contain cyanide compounds which are VERY TOXIC. These compounds cause brain,
liver and lung damage. When the paints are rolled or brushed, the nasty
stuff stays on the boat and only solvents get into the air. An organic
vapor respirator can deal with that. When the PAINTS are sprayed, an
aerosol of paint droplets, containing the nasty cyanide compounds, is in the
air. The only breathing apparatus which effectively protects the painter
are the 'supplied air' respirators. These start at about $1K. An ordinary
respirator won't do it.. DO NOT SPRAY LPU PAINTS WITHOUT ONE.


I ask for info on these paints and I get a lecture on safety instead
of a little help with my questions. I am aware of their toxicity and
I use equipment to protect myself. As an aside I might tell you that
countless boat yards and auto body shops in the United States and
other first-world countries thousands of gallons of this stuff without
"supplied air" respirators. A good fitting mask with the proper
cartridge is adequate for my purpose.

Tell me, Jim, isn't boating a bit dangerous for someone with your
safety concerns. After all, there are all sorts of dangers in going
around the water.

Additionally, if you want a "supplied-air" respirator you can find
plans all over the web to build one for less than $100. You don't
have to look for something with where prices "start at 1K."

Thanks, though for thinking about the safety of others.

Regards,

Joe

Joe Bleau wrote:
I am getting ready to spray Imron with a tubrine operated HVLP gun, as
opposed to a conversion gun which operates with an air compressor.

I know that are some real painting experts in this group so I hope one
of them will take the time to give me a little help with the following
questions:

1. Will a turbine HVLP gun atomize sufficiently to give me good
results?


It should (I use one sometimes) but be warned that the turbine will heat the air
and you should run the hose through ice water to cool it down.

2. I have some Interlux primer made for their Perfection lineau
polyruethane and wonder if I could use that as a primer or do I have
to use a two-part epoxy primer?


Better check your facts... The only primer Interlux has for their Perfection
LPU *IS* a 2 part epoxy primer (Interlux 404). Perhaps you have some of their
old line 2100/2101 (also a 2 part). If you do, it will be more than 3 years
old... Unfortunately they dropped that from the product line 3 - 4 years ago
as it was much easier to sand than is 404. If the cans have been previously
opened I wouldn't chance using it.

Brian C


3. As I do this I need to paint a piece of aluminum that has become
pitted. Would West System mixed with their aluminum dust be a good
filler for pitting in the aluminum and could I also use the Interlux
primer under the Imron. Of course, I would etch the alum prior to
application of the primer.

Thanks for your help.

Joe

"Joe Bleau" wrote in message
...
I am getting ready to spray Imron with a tubrine operated HVLP gun, as
opposed to a conversion gun which operates with an air compressor.

I know that are some real painting experts in this group so I hope one
of them will take the time to give me a little help with the following
questions:

1. Will a turbine HVLP gun atomize sufficiently to give me good
results?

2. I have some Interlux primer made for their Perfection lineau
polyruethane and wonder if I could use that as a primer or do I have
to use a two-part epoxy primer?

3. As I do this I need to paint a piece of aluminum that has become
pitted. Would West System mixed with their aluminum dust be a good
filler for pitting in the aluminum and could I also use the Interlux
primer under the Imron. Of course, I would etch the alum prior to
application of the primer.

Thanks for your help.

Joe


As far as your HVLP set up goes, there are good ones and not so good ones.
Atomisation depends greatly on the air cap of the spray gun. Generally,
more air holes the better. Some have 2 air holes (Yuuuuck!) some have over
20 (IIRC) air holes. Also, you get better atomisation if you thin the paint
down. For the record, When I sprayed boats, I frequently thinned paint down
to 14.5 seconds measured through a ford cup4 (this is a funnel-like device
and you time how long it takes for the amount of paint to flow through. It
really takes the guess work out of it). BUT, the viscosity of the paint you
use depends on many factors such as the type of paint, the substrate
condition, weather blah blah blah. Your best bet is to prep a test piece as
you would the actual boat then paint that. See if you like the results. If
not, re-prep the test piece and try again. It takes a little bit of effort
to get used to new paint and equipment. Or you can "shoot from the hip" and
hope for the best. It all depends on what kind of result you are prepared
to accept.
As for the paints you intend to use, its generally not a good idea to mix
and match. If you're doing this for money, then spend the bucks and get a
complete system of primer and top coat. If its for your own boat and you
don't mind taking a risk, then sure, go ahead, general rule of thumb is
that if both primer and paint use the same thinner then there should be no
compatibility issues. BUT, you may not get as good adhesion as you ought
to. But it may still stick well enough.
Don't know about west system and aluminium. Best ask them.

Cheers,
Arnold

From an Imron activator MSDS
Inhalation:

May cause nose and throat irritation. May cause nervous system

depression, characterized by the following progressive steps: headache,

dizziness, nausea, staggering gait, confusion, unconsciousness. Reports

have associated repeated and prolonged overexposure to solvents with

permanent brain and nervous system damage. If this product contains or

is mixed with an isocyanate activator/hardener, the following health effects

may apply: Exposure to isocyanates may cause respiratory sensitization.

This effect may be permanent. Symptoms include an asthma-like reaction

with shortness of breath, wheezing, cough or permanent lung

sensitization. This effect may be delayed for several hours after exposure.

Repeated overexposure to isocyanates may cause a decrease in lung

function, which may be permanent. Individuals with lung or breathing

problems or prior reactions to isocyanates must not be exposed to vapors

or spray mist of this product.

....

Respiratory protection

Do not breathe vapors or mists. If this product contains isocyanates or is

used with an isocyanate activator/hardener, wear a positive-pressure,

supplied-air respirator (NIOSH approved TC-19C) while mixing

activator/hardener with paint, during application and until all vapors and

spray mist are exhausted. If product does not contain or is not mixed with

an isocyanate activator/hardener, a properly fitted air-purifying respirator

with organic vapor cartridges (NIOSH TC-23C) and particulate filter

(NIOSH TC-84A) may be used. Follow respirator manufacturer's directions

for respirator use. Do not permit anyone without protection in the painting

area. Individuals with history of lung or breathing problems or prior

reaction to isocyanates should not use or be exposed vapor or spray mist if

product contains or is mixed with isocyanate activators/hardeners.

....

Some of us value our brain cells.





"Joe Bleau" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 19:20:40 -0400, "Jim Conlin"
wrote:

The linear polyurethane (LPU) paints such as Imron, Awlgrip and Perfection
contain cyanide compounds which are VERY TOXIC. These compounds cause brain,
liver and lung damage. When the paints are rolled or brushed, the nasty
stuff stays on the boat and only solvents get into the air. An organic
vapor respirator can deal with that. When the PAINTS are sprayed, an
aerosol of paint droplets, containing the nasty cyanide compounds, is in the
air. The only breathing apparatus which effectively protects the painter
are the 'supplied air' respirators. These start at about $1K. An ordinary
respirator won't do it.. DO NOT SPRAY LPU PAINTS WITHOUT ONE.


I ask for info on these paints and I get a lecture on safety instead
of a little help with my questions. I am aware of their toxicity and
I use equipment to protect myself. As an aside I might tell you that
countless boat yards and auto body shops in the United States and
other first-world countries thousands of gallons of this stuff without
"supplied air" respirators. A good fitting mask with the proper
cartridge is adequate for my purpose.

Tell me, Jim, isn't boating a bit dangerous for someone with your
safety concerns. After all, there are all sorts of dangers in going
around the water.

Additionally, if you want a "supplied-air" respirator you can find
plans all over the web to build one for less than $100. You don't
have to look for something with where prices "start at 1K."

Thanks, though for thinking about the safety of others.

Regards,

Joe

On Apr 19, 1:00 pm, "Jim Conlin" wrote:
From an Imron activator MSDS
Inhalation:
May cause nose and throat irritation. May cause nervous system
depression,

Regards, Joe

Hi Joe:

I thought your safety alert was an EXCELELNT idea. If some person is
asking those DIY questions most likely he aint working with a full
deck.

Personally I think the OP was just trolling and hopping for an
opportunity to say somthing nasty.

Bob

On 19 Apr 2007 17:59:07 -0700, Bob wrote:

On Apr 19, 1:00 pm, "Jim Conlin" wrote:
From an Imron activator MSDS
Inhalation:
May cause nose and throat irritation. May cause nervous system
depression,

Regards, Joe

Hi Joe:

I thought your safety alert was an EXCELELNT idea. If some person is
asking those DIY questions most likely he aint working with a full
deck.

Personally I think the OP was just trolling and hopping for an
opportunity to say somthing nasty.

Bob

Well, Bob, your post indicates that you are more than likely operating
with diminished deductive capacity. Anyone reading my post and
concluding that it was a troll either did not read it or did not
understand it. In the case of the former you are clearly the one
looking to say something nasty and in the case of the latter your
ability to comprehend the written language is clearly diminished,
which is suggested by your inability to distinguish between the poster
(Joe) and the responder (Jim).

Go back and reread my original post and you will see that it was
addressed to "some real painting experts in this group." Jim's
failure to answer any of the questions sort of indicates to me that he
was/is unable to do so and was seeking to (a) diminish the seriousness
of my questions or (b) just showing off--not uncommon in these NGs.

Regards,

Joe

Jim--

I do apologize if I seemed ungrateful for your counsel. I thought you
were just some wise ass. I should have checked things out. I have
just read a lot of your posts and realize that you have made many,
many valuable contributions to this group.

You are absolutely right about the dangers of anything containing
isocyanates. I do not have a supplied-air system but I will probably
be using an HVLP gun which will reduce the overspray and atomozation.
I will be working outside and will be shooting less than one pint. I
will use a tight-fitting mask and the correct cartridge--the same one
I use with muriatic acid which can really burn your lungs up. If I
were younger I would probably not do it without supplied air but at my
age I don't have to worry too much about long-term affects.

Thanks and sorry if I misunderstood your intent.

Joe


On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 19:20:40 -0400, "Jim Conlin"
wrote:

The linear polyurethane (LPU) paints such as Imron, Awlgrip and Perfection
contain cyanide compounds which are VERY TOXIC. These compounds cause brain,
liver and lung damage. When the paints are rolled or brushed, the nasty
stuff stays on the boat and only solvents get into the air. An organic
vapor respirator can deal with that. When the PAINTS are sprayed, an
aerosol of paint droplets, containing the nasty cyanide compounds, is in the
air. The only breathing apparatus which effectively protects the painter
are the 'supplied air' respirators. These start at about $1K. An ordinary
respirator won't do it.. DO NOT SPRAY LPU PAINTS WITHOUT ONE.

On Apr 20, 5:47 am, Joe Bleau wrote:

Well, Bob,
your post indicates that you are more than likely operating
with diminished deductive capacity.

Joe-

Well, joe,
Best of luck on your project.
Bob