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#1
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck. Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to adhere the new 1/4" decking to. Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over an existing teak deck ? Especially interested if someone has done this 10 years ago. .......Ken |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Island Teak wrote:
I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck. Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to adhere the new 1/4" decking to. Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over an existing teak deck ? Especially interested if someone has done this 10 years ago. .......Ken I fail to see how covering existing teak decks, with all the inherent problems, could possibly fix anything. What in the world would you do if you had a problem with the old fasteners? You can't hide a problem. |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() "Jim" wrote in message ... Island Teak wrote: I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck. Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to adhere the new 1/4" decking to. Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over an existing teak deck ? Especially interested if someone has done this 10 years ago. .......Ken I fail to see how covering existing teak decks, with all the inherent problems, could possibly fix anything. What in the world would you do if you had a problem with the old fasteners? You can't hide a problem. What is the problem of the old fasteners ? As long as loose and obviously corroded fasteners are removed and later covered in polyurethane adhesive they pose no risk due to no continued moisture contact. ...Ken |
#4
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On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 08:38:01 -0800, Jim wrote:
Island Teak wrote: I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck. Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to adhere the new 1/4" decking to. Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over an existing teak deck ? Especially interested if someone has done this 10 years ago. .......Ken I fail to see how covering existing teak decks, with all the inherent problems, could possibly fix anything. What in the world would you do if you had a problem with the old fasteners? Air powered chisel, followed by a grinder? You can't hide a problem. You heard the one about the fire on the USS Oriskany? Someone accidently ignited an air dropped illumination flare. Tossed it into the locker full of flares, slammed the lid, and hid the problem for about ten seconds. Casady |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.building
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I would be more concerned about movement in the old deck putting strain on
the veneered deck seams. I believe it would probably work but I would suggest a layer of 6oz glass and epoxy over the old sanded and acetone washed deck. Then take care to lay out the new deck with the seams positioned over the center of the old boards. Still there could be a problem with moisture from below. Especially if the old deck is flat sawn rather than quartered. As the humidity on the back surface changes the old flat or riff sawn teak could cup. That would put some weird stresses on the new deck. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Island Teak" wrote in message news:OkWfj.15111$EA5.11576@pd7urf2no... I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck. Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to adhere the new 1/4" decking to. Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over an existing teak deck ? Especially interested if someone has done this 10 years ago. .......Ken |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message ... I would be more concerned about movement in the old deck putting strain on the veneered deck seams. I believe it would probably work but I would suggest a layer of 6oz glass and epoxy over the old sanded and acetone washed deck. Then take care to lay out the new deck with the seams positioned over the center of the old boards. Still there could be a problem with moisture from below. Especially if the old deck is flat sawn rather than quartered. As the humidity on the back surface changes the old flat or riff sawn teak could cup. That would put some weird stresses on the new deck. Potential moisture below the old decking is certainly the area of greatest concern and may require lifting small sections of the old deck to search for trouble spots. I would use a polyurethane adhesive rather than epoxy and matting to allow for any possible movement . I doubt that cupping would be a factor in a well weathered deck made up of 1.5 to 2 inch teak strips. Thanks for your opinion..........Ken -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Island Teak" wrote in message news:OkWfj.15111$EA5.11576@pd7urf2no... I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck. Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to adhere the new 1/4" decking to. Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over an existing teak deck ? Especially interested if someone has done this 10 years ago. .......Ken |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Jan 5, 5:41*pm, "Island Teak" wrote:
I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck.. Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to adhere the new 1/4" decking to. Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over an existing teak deck ? * Especially interested if someone has done this 10 years ago. * * * * * * * * .......Ken I have a 1949 Chris Craft 33foot DeLuxe Enclosed Cruiser. I hate carpet on boats if it isn't snap-in. I only like snap-in cause it can be removed and cleaned off the boat, dried in the sun, coated with scotchguard and put back in the boat, also it can be removed for winter storage. Also, after working for Olympic Boat Center and going on the tours of Bayliner factories, I found that any carpeting from the factory is the cheapest, most worthless carpet on the planet. But the carpet they give you makes really good patterns to make your own. And altogether, your looking at, what, 4-6 yards of really nice stuff, to make your feet really happy? And it isn't very technical either. But I took all the carpet out of the saloon and put in 5/8 quartersawn tongue in groove, white oak. A bigger job than I thought. But boy, do the lookylou's like it!! |
#8
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posted to rec.boats.building
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#9
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() wrote in message ... On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 01:41:02 GMT, "Island Teak" wrote: I provide teak decking for the DIY folks and have received several inquiries regarding laying thin (1/4") teak strips over an existing failed teak deck. Traditionally laid teak decks primarily fail because caulking separates or the bungs loosen and water corrodes the fasteners that then enters the subdeck. In theory.... securing all loose decking, filling voids and then rough sanding the existing teak deck should provide a sound subdeck to adhere the new 1/4" decking to. Does anyone in this forum have experience regarding adhering new teak over an existing teak deck ? Especially interested if someone has done this 10 years ago. Two issues come to mind: Teak decks are pretty heavy, and adding more weight that high up in the boat is probably not a great idea. First off teak is not a heavy hardwood. A square foot of 1/4" x 1-5/8" teak weighs 14 ounces. Any teak deck that requires replacing has probably had that 1/4" worn off in service. By the time a teak deck needs replacement, there are usually issues UNDER it that need attention. Yes, that is the point and where someone competent is required to sample areas of the old deck to acertain if the subdeck is sound enough to apply a new 'top' deck. ...Ken |
#10
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 04:52:02 GMT, "Island Teak"
wrote: Any teak deck that requires replacing has probably had that 1/4" worn off in service. Every cruise ship I have been on had teak decks. They didn't maintain them, hosed them down, perhaps, and I don't know why they would wear much if any. Traffic wouldn't do it, those things are big and the wear would be well diluted. The planks were perhaps three inches wide, and must have been maybe 3/4 inch thick? You need a certain thickness, relative to width, to avoid cupping. Of course they don't have to impress the neighbors with well sanded teak. I mean we saw one boxboat in two atlantic crossings. Casady |
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