The original plans for the MiniCup calls for a 1/4-20 u-bolt to join
the gaff and boom so they can move relative to each other.
Unfortunately, the boom's thin metal has torn (after 4 yrs of use) so
the were going to separate. So, I got a piece of 2X4 and cut it to
fit into the end. I cut two pieces, drilled a hole lengthwise thru
each and inserted a long 5/16 bolt after I bent the shank near the
eyes slightly. I opened one of the eyes and joined the two eyes.
Then I glassed over eacjh of them to make em stronger and inserted
them into the spar ends and screwed them into place thru the
aluminum. It ought to be fairly strong.

wrote in message
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Does anyone have a ballpark or minimum figure on building one? I realise
prices will vary from area to area.

Thanks

On Jun 7, 4:23 pm, "Phil" wrote:
wrote in message

...

Does anyone have a ballpark or minimum figure on building one? I realise
prices will vary from area to area.

Thanks

I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use
the cheapest materials but not the best either.
I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup.

wrote in message
...


I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use
the cheapest materials but not the best either.
I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup.

Thanks, thought about building one a couple of years ago , with the gas
prices I'm giving it some serious thought this time.

On Jun 8, 7:48 am, "Phil" wrote:
wrote in message

...



I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use
the cheapest materials but not the best either.
I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup.

Thanks, thought about building one a couple of years ago , with the gas
prices I'm giving it some serious thought this time.

I think that by using 3 mm ply, stitch and glue instead of the
stringers the plans have and then glassing with 4 oz. glass, the new
MiniCup could be made considerably lighter than the old version. I'd
use 18 oz biax around the mast step and daggerboard hole and maybe 8
oz around the cockpit edges.

On Jun 8, 12:00 pm, wrote:
On Jun 8, 7:48 am, "Phil" wrote:

wrote in message

...

I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use
the cheapest materials but not the best either.
I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup.

Thanks, thought about building one a couple of years ago , with the gas
prices I'm giving it some serious thought this time.

I think that by using 3 mm ply, stitch and glue instead of the
stringers the plans have and then glassing with 4 oz. glass, the new
MiniCup could be made considerably lighter than the old version. I'd
use 18 oz biax around the mast step and daggerboard hole and maybe 8
oz around the cockpit edges.

BTW, do not use normal mild steel screws as I did, order stainless
from Jamestown Supply. After 4 years, my boats that are sailed in
salt water have the screws under the epoxied joints rusting and
expanding creating a mess at the edges. I had to dig all of them out
on one boat and glass over the joint. This year I have to do the
second boat the same way.

wrote in message
...

BTW, do not use normal mild steel screws as I did, order stainless
from Jamestown Supply. After 4 years, my boats that are sailed in
salt water have the screws under the epoxied joints rusting and
expanding creating a mess at the edges. I had to dig all of them out
on one boat and glass over the joint. This year I have to do the
second boat the same way.

That was the one thing I'm not going to skimp on , it will be used in a
high salt brackish water.