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Paint suggestion needed for cabin interior
I use a short foam roller (West System epoxy rollers cut in half). One
person rolls the paint (thinned to just about sagging) and the second person follows with a good quality brush (using just the tips of the bristles, held at 90 degrees) and "tips" the bubbles. Roll horizontally and tip vertically. Works for me. MMC. "MLapla4120" wrote in message ... Otherwise, a properly thinned oil based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll and tip' method. What is the roll and tip method? Thanks |
Paint suggestion needed for cabin interior
Great explanation. Like the glass plate testing.
MMC "Rich Hampel" wrote in message ... Roll and tip: is a method using a very thin knap (1/8 or 1/4 " thickness foam) roller to apply the paint/varnish in a very even thickness. Since the roller will leave an orange peel finish you immediately 'wipe' the surface of the applied paint with a 'dry' brush to knock down any prominences (orange peel) with the brush but not brushing so hard that you 'move' any of paint around. If the paint is thinned correctly the surface will 'almost' look like it was a sprayed-on finish. The roller puts on a uniform coat thickness, the dry brush knocks down the wet imperfections. You usually need to wet sand between coats to insure a very flat surface finish. If you want perfection, then let the paint fully dry .... for semi gloss: flat sand with 1000 and hand rub with rotton stone & oil or fine pumice and oil; for ultra gloss - flat sand with 2000 grit then hand rub with rotten stone and water - especially dazzling for semi-transparent paints. (BTW - the Cetol 'parallel' would be putting on cheap latex with a broom) Thinning is done using a flat glass plate held vertical to test for the correct amount of thinner vs. paint/varnish. You apply the paint/varnish to the glass with a brush and watch for sags and runs to develop; if not then keep adding *teeny* bits of thinner until the paint 'just starts' to run from the vertical surface. Every 'trial' is followed by cleaning the glass plate with thinner and a rag. Once you correctlly thin, the paint will *flow* correctly and will level out any brush marks but not so thick that it will run/sag, the brush marks will dissapear and the paint will immediately start to 'skin-over'. Takes a bit of patience in correctly thinning to the desired effect. You just keep adding paint/varnish or thinner until the paint/varnish on the glass plate doesnt run or sag ... or dry out too fast and leave brush marks. Thinning depends on the temperature and the humidity at the time. Sometimes, like on a very humid day, you will find that you will need a little "japan dryer" so that the (oil based) paint/varnish sets up a little faster ... and then wont run/sag. For most 'fancy' work I still prefer lead based paint ... still available for 'sign painting' .... but obviously not available in eco-nazi states like MA, NJ or CA (or other places with high infestations of 'democrats' ;-) ). Hope this helps. In article , MLapla4120 wrote: Otherwise, a properly thinned oil based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll and tip' method. What is the roll and tip method? Thanks |
Paint suggestion needed for cabin interior
On Tue, 25 May 2004 00:15:27 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote: (BTW - the Cetol 'parallel' would be putting on cheap latex with a broom) Oh, great...who's going to pay for this coffee-stained monitor, I'd like to know? G R. |
Paint suggestion needed for cabin interior
Roll and tip: is a method using a very thin knap (1/8 or 1/4 " thickness foam) roller to apply the paint/varnish in a very even thickness. Since the roller will leave an orange peel finish you immediately 'wipe' the surface of the applied paint with a 'dry' brush to knock down any prominences (orange peel) with the brush but not brushing so hard that you 'move' any of paint around. If the paint is thinned correctly the surface will 'almost' look like it was a sprayed-on finish. The roller puts on a uniform coat thickness, the dry brush knocks down the wet imperfections. You usually need to wet sand between coats to insure a very flat surface finish. If you want perfection, then let the paint fully dry .... for semi gloss: flat sand with 1000 and hand rub with rotton stone & oil or fine pumice and oil; for ultra gloss - flat sand with 2000 grit then hand rub with rotten stone and water - especially dazzling for semi-transparent paints. (BTW - the Cetol 'parallel' would be putting on cheap latex with a broom) Thinning is done using a flat glass plate held vertical to test for the correct amount of thinner vs. paint/varnish. You apply the paint/varnish to the glass with a brush and watch for sags and runs to develop; if not then keep adding *teeny* bits of thinner until the paint 'just starts' to run from the vertical surface. Every 'trial' is followed by cleaning the glass plate with thinner and a rag. Once you correctlly thin, the paint will *flow* correctly and will level out any brush marks but not so thick that it will run/sag, the brush marks will dissapear and the paint will immediately start to 'skin-over'. Takes a bit of patience in correctly thinning to the desired effect. You just keep adding paint/varnish or thinner until the paint/varnish on the glass plate doesnt run or sag ... or dry out too fast and leave brush marks. Thinning depends on the temperature and the humidity at the time. Sometimes, like on a very humid day, you will find that you will need a little "japan dryer" so that the (oil based) paint/varnish sets up a little faster ... and then wont run/sag. For most 'fancy' work I still prefer lead based paint ... still available for 'sign painting' .... but obviously not available in eco-nazi states like MA, NJ or CA (or other places with high infestations of 'democrats' ;-) ). Hope this helps. In article , MLapla4120 wrote: Otherwise, a properly thinned oil based paint is long lasting and trouble free..... apply with the 'roll and tip' method. What is the roll and tip method? Thanks, outstanding post! |
Paint suggestion needed for cabin interior
"MMC" wrote:
I've used plain old oil based house paint on boat interiors for years. Don't feel I need the UV protection inside the boat that make boat paints so popular. Oil base paint is tough, durable and washable. As well as a lot easier to use than a lot of the boat paints. I also don't believe everything I take on my boat has to be carried aboard in a "West Marine" bag, alot of the stuff I use comes aboard in a "Wal-Mart" bag. Ditto - we just use ordinary house paint from the hardware store. The more important thing is to prepare the surface properly - to get it free of grease and sand it lightly to give the paint something to attach to - otherwise it may peel off. You can put mildewcide in the paint if you want. We haven't when painting vertical surfaces. We mostly get mildew on the overhead. You can wipe the surface that's mildewed down with bleach, or use that orange cleaner, or vinegar which will kill it also if you don't object to the smell. "MLapla4120" wrote in message ... Hi, In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional look, I'm going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim which is teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used. Thanks grandma Rosalie |
Paint suggestion needed for cabin interior
Subject: Paint suggestion needed for cabin interior
From: Hi, In an effort to do less varnishing and to achieve a more traditional look, I'm going to paint sections of my interior with off white paint. The trim which is teak and other hardwood will remain varnished. I'm looking for a good paint. If anyone else has done this let me know the paint you used. Thanks I've been using top quality "home" latex and oil paints on the interiors of most of the boats I have been painting with great results. Beats the Hell out of the high cost of "marine" paint. And you can get tons of custom colors. Capt. Bill Capt. Bill |
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