On Thursday 27 May 2004 3:18 pm in rec.boats.cruising L. M. Rappaport wrote:

I'll agree with everyone else - tinned, stranded wire is the best
wire to use. In addition, if the boat is fiberglass, you should use
"wire loom" for conductors which can rub against the hull or any other
unfinished fiberglass surface. The reason is that unfinished
fiberglass is quite abrasive. You can buy wire loom at auto parts
stores - it's like a flexible plastic pipe slit up the side. It
provides a smooth interior which will not abrade the insulation.

I prefer to use spirothene because it makes for a tighter bundle and
it is easier to drop out individual wires along the way. Another much
neater method is to lace the loom with waxed twine. This looks really
neat and takes up a lot less space than wireloom or spirothene, but
needs separate protection where rubbing is likely.

Another very important point is that shrinktube should always be used
to protect the transition between the wire and a lug or terminal. This
is a weak point where any vibration or movement will naturally be
concentrated.

--
My real address is crn (at) netunix (dot) com
WARNING all messages containing attachments or html will be silently
deleted. Send only plain text.

All the reasons given here for the use of stranded wire are for the most
part correct and reason enough to use tinned stranded wire. I am sure that
the only reason you are disuaded from using real marine wire is cost, but
I just bought 1000' of 14/2 for 24 cents a foot he

http://www.blackav.com/bai.php?page=11

their website was out of commission last I checked, but their phone number
is 724-379-8628

To answer all the sceptics, YES, this is tinned, stranded, duplex UL1426
CG approved marine wire.


David
S/V Nausicaa

Ytter,
As a rule you should use FINE tin plated stranded wire. It should be
sheathed with either fiberglass or metal braiding. It can be ordered from an
industrial wire supply house. It cost more than other type wire, but the
overall cost difference at the job level is minimal. Just as importantly,
you should consider the mode of most common failure of wiring. That is
corrosion at the wire terminal interface. To avoid the moisture migration
cause, you should use crimp terminals without insulation and a crimping tool
that provides enough pressure that the terminal to wire connection actually
welds. Then shrink tubing is applied and after the terminal is installed the
entire connection should be painted with a rubber compound. This also can be
ordered from the industrial supplier or directly from OMC.
Steve

"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Ytter,
As a rule you should use FINE tin plated stranded wire. It should be
sheathed with either fiberglass or metal braiding. It can be ordered from
an
industrial wire supply house. It cost more than other type wire, but the
overall cost difference at the job level is minimal. Just as importantly,
you should consider the mode of most common failure of wiring. That is
corrosion at the wire terminal interface. To avoid the moisture migration
cause, you should use crimp terminals without insulation and a crimping
tool
that provides enough pressure that the terminal to wire connection
actually
welds. Then shrink tubing is applied and after the terminal is installed
the
entire connection should be painted with a rubber compound. This also can
be
ordered from the industrial supplier or directly from OMC.
Steve

"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

QLW wrote:
I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long
enough to last until the end of the warranty.

--
the most committed always win

dazed and confuzed wrote:


Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long
enough to last until the end of the warranty.


I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder
gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion.

Tom
of the Swee****er Sea

Tom, you are incorrect. A solder joint under vibration can easily create a
resistive connection and it can be undetectable until it overheats. Please
review my previous advice and use a crimping tool that creats a very high
pressure crimp.
Steve

"Tom Shilson" wrote in message
...
dazed and confuzed wrote:


Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long
enough to last until the end of the warranty.


I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder
gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion.

Tom
of the Swee****er Sea

One argument against soldered connections is that the molten solder can wick
up into the stranded wire and stiffen the wire back to a hard spot which, being
concealed by the insulation, can fatigue without being seen.



QLW wrote:

I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

NEVER solder an electrical connection within a vehicle or any machine that
is subject to motion or vibration. The solder creates a stress concentration
at the end of the solder, which in time will cause the wire to break right
at the joint. That is why it should never be done. Those that have done this
and not experienced a failure are simply lucky.
Steve

"QLW" wrote in message
...
I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Ytter,
As a rule you should use FINE tin plated stranded wire. It should be
sheathed with either fiberglass or metal braiding. It can be ordered
from
an
industrial wire supply house. It cost more than other type wire, but the
overall cost difference at the job level is minimal. Just as
importantly,
you should consider the mode of most common failure of wiring. That is
corrosion at the wire terminal interface. To avoid the moisture
migration
cause, you should use crimp terminals without insulation and a crimping
tool
that provides enough pressure that the terminal to wire connection
actually
welds. Then shrink tubing is applied and after the terminal is installed
the
entire connection should be painted with a rubber compound. This also
can
be
ordered from the industrial supplier or directly from OMC.
Steve

"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
NEVER solder an electrical connection within a vehicle or any machine that
is subject to motion or vibration. The solder creates a stress
concentration
at the end of the solder, which in time will cause the wire to break right
at the joint. That is why it should never be done. Those that have done
this
and not experienced a failure are simply lucky.
Steve

Generally I crimped and soldered all connections on my boat. IMO there is
little motion or vibration of well supported wires within a boat's
structure.

HOWEVER (and this is a big one), I would NOT solder connections to wires
that are attached to the engine, where there is significant vibration. I
had an alternator output wire fail right at the end of the solder
connection, which seemed to be an obvious fatigue failure. Could have been
nasty if it hadn't broken cleanly away.


--
Evan Gatehouse

you'll have to rewrite my email address to get to me
ceilydh AT 3web dot net
(fools the spammers)