Matt,

Thanks for your inputs. =20

I like the idea of the feedback type of solenoid because I do some =
uphill
backing into my driveway and sometimes see a little skidding (currently
have just the pressure hold type). =20

I probably will stay with the SS rotors. Though I think the performance =
of
the vented type would be a little better, I do like stainless on and =
around
the boat.

I'll look for the DOT 5 fluid - sounds good.

Thanks again,

LB

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 19:50:11 -0400, Matt Colie =

wrote:

LB,
Replies in line again with lost of snip.

snip
Thanks for the replies. Please see followup below...
As stated "I believe in preventive maintenance." Also, I'm an old =
retired
guy that needs a worthwhile project. ;-) Being older probably also =
makes
me more conservative about safety issues.

This is not stupid, you may have actually lived long enough to pass on=20
some good information

I'm seeking recommended maintenance for the brakes on our sailboat =
trailer.
We've had this trailer with Tie Down disc surge brakes and Dico =
actuator
for almost 7 years and even though the brake system seems to be =
working ok,
I'm thinking it's due for some extreme maintenance. We trailer every=
week
about 10 miles round-trip to fresh water and every year an additional=
500
miles to salt water. The trailer is tandem axle with brakes on the =
rear.
The boat weighs about 2500#. My inclination is to replace hubs, =
rotors,
calipers, actuator, back-up solenoid, and even hydraulic lines and =
hoses.
(I believe in preventive maintenance.) Is this too extreme and =
should I
expect a much longer life from disc brakes?
snip
1. How is the breakaway function reset?
snip
The reason for this question is that with my current actuator (Dico) I=
must
remove 2 screws and a cover plate from around the breakaway lever to =
reset
it. I've inadvertently triggered the breakaway several times when =
hooking
up the trailer to the tow vehicle.
My Dico coupler is the 10k pound version and may be different.
=20
2. Can the surge brake function easily be disabled?=20

Yes - that is what the back-up solenoid does. Why??
In case the solenoid or wiring fails, I'd like to still be able to =
easily
back the trailer. =20
My trailers drum brakes have always been sooo bad in reverse - I never=20
bothered. With my Dico coupler, I did have to plug between the coupler=20
and the end of the tongue to back it into the barn. I do not know if=20
there is someplace that you could "plug" the tie-down unit.
=20
3. When installed, is the back-up solenoid covered (protected)?

Most are not, they just hang out in the air, but if left unsupported,=20
they can vibrate and break a steel line.
=20
I have installed a protective aluminum plate over the solenoid and
hydraulic lines so that someone standing on the tongue will not step =
on
those components.
Good Move

4. Is the Model 66 disc brake actuator the same as the Model 66 drum =
brake
actuator but with the check valve disabled?
I don't know those model numbers - too new.

5. Are all components rustproof?

No, they rust just like your car brakes do.

This question was intended for the actuator and solenoid only. I have=
a
fair amount of rust on the solenoid and fittings and=20

=3D=3Din the fluid reservoir =3D=3D at present.

If you have rust in the reservoir, that is bad. DOT3 brake fluid is=20
hydroscopic (it soaks up water). If there is corrosion there, there is=20
probably also corrosion in the master cylinder. The cylinder is=20
available as a replacement part, but you may not be able to unscrew the=20
steel tubing (a common problem) be forced into a system rebuild.

The solenoids that I have seen used for this purpose and connecting=20
fittings packaed with them are nothing special and definitely not=20
corrosion protected more than a little cad plate (not long in sea=20
water). They come in two kinds, close with power to prevent pressure=20
from getting to the brakes and open with power that dump the fluid back=20
in the reservoir and I do not know which you have.

snip
Our disc brakes have SS rotors although I'm thinking of replacing them
vented steel rotors. Yes, the rotors would rust then but I understand=
this
is not a problem as the rotors are cleaned during use. I would =
welcome
input on this assumption also. 90+ per cent of our launchings are in =
fresh
water.
Well, talk to anyone that stored a car wrong, rusting disks is a=20
problem. I would stay with the SS rotors until they give you a problem.=
=20
They will be more prone to warp, but that should only be at high =
loads.
=20
I believe the calipers are a fairly corroded aluminum and I'm =
expecting
that these would be tough to service.
If they are like most of the trailers that I have worked on, this may be=
=20
your major headache.

Are there more cost effective brake components than Tie Down?
I only worked on one TieDown equiped trailer, and I did not like it as=20
much as the Dico coulplers.

I never bough Tie Down. I do a commercial trailer shop.
=20
What would a commercial solution look like for a 4000# loaded boat =
trailer?
Probably a whole lot like what you have, but the commerial shops have=20
lots of neat parts that they don't seem to know about in boat stores.

I tow a 4800# sloop on an 1100# trailer. The trailer came to me with=20
disfunctional brakes on 4 wheels (10 or 11x2.25). I thought about going=
=20
with the SS disk brakes, but crossed it off because (even though I only=20
got to save the drums and back plates) the probable difficulty with=20
removing the calipers to inspect the bearings was a stopper. I did=20
replace the master cylinder, everything inside the drums and all the=20
lines. I did use DOT5 fluid which is not hydroscopic, but costs about 5=
=20
times more - still cheap if I don't have to mess with it again.
=20
Thanks again.
=20
LB

Good Luck Guy
Matt Colie