We're back! 10 days of sailing and daily anchor testing. Brought down
a 33 lb. aluminum Spade and borrowed equivalent Delta, CQR and Bruce
anchors from BVIYC. Primary rode was 3/8" all chain and secondary was
40' of 5/16 with three strand. We tested setting, basic holding power
and long term drag under pressure on both rodes in sand, sand over
grass, mud/sand mix and muck. It took about 2 hours a day with all 7
crew working. Two in the dinghy changing anchors, two snorkeling with
cameras, measuring rods and marker buoys, helmsman, windlass operator
and note takers.

The test sites were Cistern Point, Cooper Island (grass over sand); Dead
man Bay, Peter Island (grass over sand); Green Key (loose sand); Great
Cruz bay (mud/sand mix) and Hurricane Hole, St. John (muck).

The procedure was to drop an anchor and mark where it landed with a buoy
(pool noodle tied to a 5# lead weight). Set it and drop another buoy
and measure the distance it took to set. Let out to 7:1, back down
slowly then up to 2,200 RPM for 5 minutes and measure the drag distance.
Hook on the dynamometer, increase RPM until it broke out and record
the maximum rode tension. If it didn't back out we shortened rode until
it did recording maximum tension and ratio. We then reset and pulled
from about 90º to the side to see how it realigned to the new pull.

Basic findings:
We found little difference between all chain and rope/chain except on
extremely short (under 4:1) rodes.
The Bruce set fastest overall in all but grass over sand but drug first
every time.
Delta and CQR set and held about the same (holding considerably better
than the Bruce) but when pulled off center the CQR realigned itself
better without breaking out when pulled at an angle.
The Spade required a little more attention to get it to set but held
considerably better on shorter scope than all the others in all bottoms.
It also realigned itself with less position loss than the others.

We found that you have to let the Spade sit for a few seconds and let
the wind push the boat back before it would right itself. In stronger
wind it was necessary to slowly let out scope to give it time to start
to set. Once the bow came up into the wind it set perfectly every time.
If you back down before it has a chance to right itself it just skids
on its side.

I will post pictures, a cleaned up spread sheet and add more detailed
results on my anchor site once I quit rocking.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glen -

Describe a bit more in detail what exactly you mean by letting a Spade
'settle-in' beforfe pulling strain.

Does this mean that the tip takes time to bury, etc.?

Ive posted before that my 44# spade doesnt set well at all in glutenous
mud/muck. Am curious in your discovered setting techniques.

Thanx



In article dpxSc.27378$Jo1.2034@lakeread01, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

We're back! 10 days of sailing and daily anchor testing. Brought down
a 33 lb. aluminum Spade and borrowed equivalent Delta, CQR and Bruce
anchors from BVIYC. Primary rode was 3/8" all chain and secondary was
40' of 5/16 with three strand. We tested setting, basic holding power
and long term drag under pressure on both rodes in sand, sand over
grass, mud/sand mix and muck. It took about 2 hours a day with all 7
crew working. Two in the dinghy changing anchors, two snorkeling with
cameras, measuring rods and marker buoys, helmsman, windlass operator
and note takers.

The test sites were Cistern Point, Cooper Island (grass over sand); Dead
man Bay, Peter Island (grass over sand); Green Key (loose sand); Great
Cruz bay (mud/sand mix) and Hurricane Hole, St. John (muck).

The procedure was to drop an anchor and mark where it landed with a buoy
(pool noodle tied to a 5# lead weight). Set it and drop another buoy
and measure the distance it took to set. Let out to 7:1, back down
slowly then up to 2,200 RPM for 5 minutes and measure the drag distance.
Hook on the dynamometer, increase RPM until it broke out and record
the maximum rode tension. If it didn't back out we shortened rode until
it did recording maximum tension and ratio. We then reset and pulled
from about 90º to the side to see how it realigned to the new pull.

Basic findings:
We found little difference between all chain and rope/chain except on
extremely short (under 4:1) rodes.
The Bruce set fastest overall in all but grass over sand but drug first
every time.
Delta and CQR set and held about the same (holding considerably better
than the Bruce) but when pulled off center the CQR realigned itself
better without breaking out when pulled at an angle.
The Spade required a little more attention to get it to set but held
considerably better on shorter scope than all the others in all bottoms.
It also realigned itself with less position loss than the others.

We found that you have to let the Spade sit for a few seconds and let
the wind push the boat back before it would right itself. In stronger
wind it was necessary to slowly let out scope to give it time to start
to set. Once the bow came up into the wind it set perfectly every time.
If you back down before it has a chance to right itself it just skids
on its side.

I will post pictures, a cleaned up spread sheet and add more detailed
results on my anchor site once I quit rocking.

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 03:16:45 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:

Glen -

Describe a bit more in detail what exactly you mean by letting a Spade
'settle-in' beforfe pulling strain.

And Glen, please tell us: are these tests done on "RUTU"? Is that
beautiful chunk of plastic and cedar actually finished and in the
BVIs?

Or was this done on a reasonable fascimile boat?

R.

rhys wrote:

And Glen, please tell us: are these tests done on "RUTU"? Is that
beautiful chunk of plastic and cedar actually finished and in the
BVIs?

Or was this done on a reasonable fascimile boat?

I wish. This was on a Beneteau 505 bareboat charter. I was in need of
some motivation for the final stages of building. If I keep my A** in
gear this Fall and Winter RUTU will be in the water by next summer.


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Rich Hampel wrote:

Glen -

Describe a bit more in detail what exactly you mean by letting a Spade
'settle-in' beforfe pulling strain.

Does this mean that the tip takes time to bury, etc.?

Ive posted before that my 44# spade doesnt set well at all in glutenous
mud/muck. Am curious in your discovered setting techniques.


Rich,
Your expreience was one of my primary reasons for conducting the tests.
We couldn't find any really soft muck. Hurricane Hole was all muck
but it was fairly stiff. On all bottoms the 33# aluminum sat on its
side for a few seconds and then the tip slowly started sinking. As the
rode started to bring on a little load the anchor gradually righted
itself after about 2'. At 4' it was burried up to the front of the
shank. OTOH, when any load was applied as soon as it hit bottom it
skidded along on it's side just like you said.

Ultimate holding power in really churned up sand bottoms was not as good
as I had hoped. It ws only slightly better than the plow but under 5
minutes at 2200 RPM the plow and the CQR crept slowly (about 2' so I
can't call it dragging) while the Spade did not move. As far as
ultimate hold in really soft mud, I do not believe anything will beat a
Fortress/Danforth pattern with the flukesd set wide. In that situation
big flat flukes perpendicular to the load just works better. OTOH,
those patterns have problems with re-alignment and resetting.

If you get a chance, let it out to about 4:1 and try letting it sit
until the bow comes to wind. Then back down at about 1200 RPM for a few
seconds. If it still has not righted itself by then we may have a
different problem. Let me know and I will see what Spade wants to do
about it. Yours was one of the first that I sold and there could be one
or two things we need to check. A few of the first ones were under
weight. It should weigh between 41 and 44 lbs. Any less and I will
order a replacement it for you in the next shipment. The other
possibility (although I doubt it) is that you got one of the original
models. Newer Spades have a little tab on the back of each sholder to
hold the top of the fluke up while the tip rotated. If you are missing
those tabs it will sink on its side and be much harder to set. Again,
let me know and I will talk to Spade about a replacement.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Thanks

My spade does have small 'winglets' on the outer margin of the flukes
but I can take a dig. picture if you like and then send it to you.

I'll also take a bathroom scale with me next time and weigh it.

Its just in 'soft' conditions that the Spade seems to be a problem ....
and I now usually use a danforth for those. Other-wise it is one of
the best damn anchors Ive ever used.

thanx.
;-)


In article 8gJSc.27535$Jo1.20458@lakeread01, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

Rich Hampel wrote:

Glen -

Describe a bit more in detail what exactly you mean by letting a Spade
'settle-in' beforfe pulling strain.

Does this mean that the tip takes time to bury, etc.?

Ive posted before that my 44# spade doesnt set well at all in glutenous
mud/muck. Am curious in your discovered setting techniques.


Rich,
Your expreience was one of my primary reasons for conducting the tests.
We couldn't find any really soft muck. Hurricane Hole was all muck
but it was fairly stiff. On all bottoms the 33# aluminum sat on its
side for a few seconds and then the tip slowly started sinking. As the
rode started to bring on a little load the anchor gradually righted
itself after about 2'. At 4' it was burried up to the front of the
shank. OTOH, when any load was applied as soon as it hit bottom it
skidded along on it's side just like you said.

Ultimate holding power in really churned up sand bottoms was not as good
as I had hoped. It ws only slightly better than the plow but under 5
minutes at 2200 RPM the plow and the CQR crept slowly (about 2' so I
can't call it dragging) while the Spade did not move. As far as
ultimate hold in really soft mud, I do not believe anything will beat a
Fortress/Danforth pattern with the flukesd set wide. In that situation
big flat flukes perpendicular to the load just works better. OTOH,
those patterns have problems with re-alignment and resetting.

If you get a chance, let it out to about 4:1 and try letting it sit
until the bow comes to wind. Then back down at about 1200 RPM for a few
seconds. If it still has not righted itself by then we may have a
different problem. Let me know and I will see what Spade wants to do
about it. Yours was one of the first that I sold and there could be one
or two things we need to check. A few of the first ones were under
weight. It should weigh between 41 and 44 lbs. Any less and I will
order a replacement it for you in the next shipment. The other
possibility (although I doubt it) is that you got one of the original
models. Newer Spades have a little tab on the back of each sholder to
hold the top of the fluke up while the tip rotated. If you are missing
those tabs it will sink on its side and be much harder to set. Again,
let me know and I will talk to Spade about a replacement.

I'm using my Spade in Gulf Coast mud and it does take a little extra time /
dragging to set. It holds very well once set however. I have always used a
Fortress FX-23 in mud with excellent results. The Spade works well, but does
take a little longer to grab and set. I usually let the boat drift back to
get the initial set, then slight power. It just works it's way into the
muck. The Fortress is still in the secondary position, ready to go. I have
the Spade S-140 on a Krogen 42 with all-chain rode.

--


Keith
__
"A whim, once watered with imagination, becomes
a dream and the best time to take your first step toward a dream
is always yesterday; the worst time: tomorrow. Our best compromise
is today." - Alvah Simon
"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Thanks

My spade does have small 'winglets' on the outer margin of the flukes
but I can take a dig. picture if you like and then send it to you.

I'll also take a bathroom scale with me next time and weigh it.

Its just in 'soft' conditions that the Spade seems to be a problem ....
and I now usually use a danforth for those. Other-wise it is one of
the best damn anchors Ive ever used.

thanx.
;-)


In article 8gJSc.27535$Jo1.20458@lakeread01, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

Rich Hampel wrote:

Glen -

Describe a bit more in detail what exactly you mean by letting a Spade
'settle-in' beforfe pulling strain.

Does this mean that the tip takes time to bury, etc.?

Ive posted before that my 44# spade doesnt set well at all in
glutenous
mud/muck. Am curious in your discovered setting techniques.


Rich,
Your expreience was one of my primary reasons for conducting the tests.
We couldn't find any really soft muck. Hurricane Hole was all muck
but it was fairly stiff. On all bottoms the 33# aluminum sat on its
side for a few seconds and then the tip slowly started sinking. As the
rode started to bring on a little load the anchor gradually righted
itself after about 2'. At 4' it was burried up to the front of the
shank. OTOH, when any load was applied as soon as it hit bottom it
skidded along on it's side just like you said.

Ultimate holding power in really churned up sand bottoms was not as good
as I had hoped. It ws only slightly better than the plow but under 5
minutes at 2200 RPM the plow and the CQR crept slowly (about 2' so I
can't call it dragging) while the Spade did not move. As far as
ultimate hold in really soft mud, I do not believe anything will beat a
Fortress/Danforth pattern with the flukesd set wide. In that situation
big flat flukes perpendicular to the load just works better. OTOH,
those patterns have problems with re-alignment and resetting.

If you get a chance, let it out to about 4:1 and try letting it sit
until the bow comes to wind. Then back down at about 1200 RPM for a few
seconds. If it still has not righted itself by then we may have a
different problem. Let me know and I will see what Spade wants to do
about it. Yours was one of the first that I sold and there could be one
or two things we need to check. A few of the first ones were under
weight. It should weigh between 41 and 44 lbs. Any less and I will
order a replacement it for you in the next shipment. The other
possibility (although I doubt it) is that you got one of the original
models. Newer Spades have a little tab on the back of each sholder to
hold the top of the fluke up while the tip rotated. If you are missing
those tabs it will sink on its side and be much harder to set. Again,
let me know and I will talk to Spade about a replacement.

We used the Spade A-80 in Alaska exclusively for seven weeks last year,
anchoring in all kinds of wierd muck/shale/shells/clay. We were having
quite a time of it at first until a nosey Brit with binoculars across a
bay with nothing else to do asked us to just try throwing it out and
letting it find its own way into the stuff. We tried that and from that
day on just threw the damn thing overboard, set the anchor watch on the
GPS and went to bed. We never dragged once, even in high winds and when
we would be holding on a slant and the tide would be pulling us in and
out. We were impressed.

What's this tab thing? Do they retrofit?

Capt. Jeff

They are little tabs that stick out about 1" or so behind the edge of
the fluke at the shoulder or widest part of the fluke to prevent the
corner from digging in. Prior to about 2001 Spades didn't have these.
When it first lands the Spade rest on this corner and the tip. Without
the winglets the corner would start digging in first effectively raising
the tip so that it could not dig in. The problem was discovered by
Practical Sailor in an early test and Spade modified the design. Now
the corner slides over the bottom and the slight concave edge forces
most of the pressure onto the tip.

Tamaroak wrote:
We used the Spade A-80 in Alaska exclusively for seven weeks last year,
anchoring in all kinds of wierd muck/shale/shells/clay. We were having
quite a time of it at first until a nosey Brit with binoculars across a
bay with nothing else to do asked us to just try throwing it out and
letting it find its own way into the stuff. We tried that and from that
day on just threw the damn thing overboard, set the anchor watch on the
GPS and went to bed. We never dragged once, even in high winds and when
we would be holding on a slant and the tide would be pulling us in and
out. We were impressed.

What's this tab thing? Do they retrofit?

Capt. Jeff


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Can you send me a picture? Someday I might want to weld some onto mine, if
they help. You know the address. Thanks!

--


Keith
__
Without geometry, life is pointless.
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:aqSSc.27747$Jo1.1890@lakeread01...
They are little tabs that stick out about 1" or so behind the edge of
the fluke at the shoulder or widest part of the fluke to prevent the
corner from digging in. Prior to about 2001 Spades didn't have these.
When it first lands the Spade rest on this corner and the tip. Without
the winglets the corner would start digging in first effectively raising
the tip so that it could not dig in. The problem was discovered by
Practical Sailor in an early test and Spade modified the design. Now
the corner slides over the bottom and the slight concave edge forces
most of the pressure onto the tip.

Tamaroak wrote:
We used the Spade A-80 in Alaska exclusively for seven weeks last year,
anchoring in all kinds of wierd muck/shale/shells/clay. We were having
quite a time of it at first until a nosey Brit with binoculars across a
bay with nothing else to do asked us to just try throwing it out and
letting it find its own way into the stuff. We tried that and from that
day on just threw the damn thing overboard, set the anchor watch on the
GPS and went to bed. We never dragged once, even in high winds and when
we would be holding on a slant and the tide would be pulling us in and
out. We were impressed.

What's this tab thing? Do they retrofit?

Capt. Jeff


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com