Took time to peruse the pics of your boat through the link you provided.
Glad I did, she's beautiful. I got a pretty good look at your doors with
trim on the front.
Thanks Doug.
MMC
"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Just to give the other option, our cane is applied from the front with
a piece of trim to cover the spline. Looks nice. I'll send you a digipic
close up if you want.

Doug
s/v CAllista

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:FfS8d.22103$3n.14945@okepread06...
Thanks for the instructions. You have prevented me from making a
mistake.
:-)

"Graeme Cook" wrote in message
...
I have the traditional pre-woven octagonal-holed cane that you can buy
from any
craft store. Still looks good after about twelve years.

We have had no problems with things in the locker going bump, although
have
twice had crew members fall through the cane. Simply replace the old
stuff.

We recessed the cane so that the retaining spline is on the back
(inside)
of the
doors and hence not normally visible in the yacht. We used following
process:-

* Cut cane webbing about one inch oversize on all edges.
* Thoroughly soak cane (at least overnight) to make it real pliable.
* Squeeze plenty of PVC glue into groove.
* Lay cane in position, and at centre point of one side gently push in
a
temporary short spline (One inch)
* Carefully stretch cane and put another temporary spline oposite.
* Repeat for other two sides.
* Using a push stick carefully force cane into grooves.
* Starting from one of the temporary splines, carefully force a
pre-soaked
permanent spline into groove, working around door, removing temporary
splines as
you go. I used a small wooden mallet to knock the spline into the
groove.
* When glue & cane is thoroughly dry cut off excess can flush with
batten. I
used a straight cutter in a spindle molder. A boc cutter was too slow.
* Wave a butane torch over finished can to remove all splinters.
* I then gave it three coats of diluted clear polyurethane. Be real
careful to
sto runs happening.

We occasionally run a damp cloth over cane to keep it clean. Every two
years we
wash with sugar soap and then turpentine and then recoat with two coats
of
diluted polyurethane. (ie cane and door frames).

Fair Winds

Graeme
sv Leonidas

One thing to note, goods inside the cabinet pushing on cane splined on the
outside will be tending to pull the spline out, whereas goods pushing on
cane splined on the inside will be putting more of a shearing load on the
spline.
Probably not of practical concern, but worth mentioning.
Ray

"MMC" wrote in message
. ..
Took time to peruse the pics of your boat through the link you provided.
Glad I did, she's beautiful. I got a pretty good look at your doors with
trim on the front.
Thanks Doug.
MMC
"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Just to give the other option, our cane is applied from the front with
a piece of trim to cover the spline. Looks nice. I'll send you a digipic
close up if you want.

Doug
s/v CAllista

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:FfS8d.22103$3n.14945@okepread06...
Thanks for the instructions. You have prevented me from making a
mistake.
:-)

"Graeme Cook" wrote in message
...
I have the traditional pre-woven octagonal-holed cane that you can buy
from any
craft store. Still looks good after about twelve years.

We have had no problems with things in the locker going bump, although
have
twice had crew members fall through the cane. Simply replace the old
stuff.

We recessed the cane so that the retaining spline is on the back
(inside)
of the
doors and hence not normally visible in the yacht. We used following
process:-

* Cut cane webbing about one inch oversize on all edges.
* Thoroughly soak cane (at least overnight) to make it real pliable.
* Squeeze plenty of PVC glue into groove.
* Lay cane in position, and at centre point of one side gently push
in
a
temporary short spline (One inch)
* Carefully stretch cane and put another temporary spline oposite.
* Repeat for other two sides.
* Using a push stick carefully force cane into grooves.
* Starting from one of the temporary splines, carefully force a
pre-soaked
permanent spline into groove, working around door, removing temporary
splines as
you go. I used a small wooden mallet to knock the spline into the
groove.
* When glue & cane is thoroughly dry cut off excess can flush with
batten. I
used a straight cutter in a spindle molder. A boc cutter was too
slow.
* Wave a butane torch over finished can to remove all splinters.
* I then gave it three coats of diluted clear polyurethane. Be real
careful to
sto runs happening.

We occasionally run a damp cloth over cane to keep it clean. Every
two
years we
wash with sugar soap and then turpentine and then recoat with two
coats
of
diluted polyurethane. (ie cane and door frames).

Fair Winds

Graeme
sv Leonidas

The boat is 22 years old and I haven't seen any sign of
cane blowout I have never dismantled any of the doors
but it seems like the cane must be fastened in pretty well.

Doug
s/v Callista

"BF" wrote in message
...
One thing to note, goods inside the cabinet pushing on cane splined on the
outside will be tending to pull the spline out, whereas goods pushing on
cane splined on the inside will be putting more of a shearing load on the
spline.
Probably not of practical concern, but worth mentioning.
Ray

"MMC" wrote in message
. ..
Took time to peruse the pics of your boat through the link you provided.
Glad I did, she's beautiful. I got a pretty good look at your doors with
trim on the front.
Thanks Doug.
MMC
"Doug Dotson" wrote in message
...
Just to give the other option, our cane is applied from the front with
a piece of trim to cover the spline. Looks nice. I'll send you a
digipic
close up if you want.

Doug
s/v CAllista

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:FfS8d.22103$3n.14945@okepread06...
Thanks for the instructions. You have prevented me from making a
mistake.
:-)

"Graeme Cook" wrote in message
...
I have the traditional pre-woven octagonal-holed cane that you can
buy
from any
craft store. Still looks good after about twelve years.

We have had no problems with things in the locker going bump,
although
have
twice had crew members fall through the cane. Simply replace the old
stuff.

We recessed the cane so that the retaining spline is on the back
(inside)
of the
doors and hence not normally visible in the yacht. We used following
process:-

* Cut cane webbing about one inch oversize on all edges.
* Thoroughly soak cane (at least overnight) to make it real pliable.
* Squeeze plenty of PVC glue into groove.
* Lay cane in position, and at centre point of one side gently push
in
a
temporary short spline (One inch)
* Carefully stretch cane and put another temporary spline oposite.
* Repeat for other two sides.
* Using a push stick carefully force cane into grooves.
* Starting from one of the temporary splines, carefully force a
pre-soaked
permanent spline into groove, working around door, removing temporary
splines as
you go. I used a small wooden mallet to knock the spline into the
groove.
* When glue & cane is thoroughly dry cut off excess can flush with
batten. I
used a straight cutter in a spindle molder. A boc cutter was too
slow.
* Wave a butane torch over finished can to remove all splinters.
* I then gave it three coats of diluted clear polyurethane. Be real
careful to
sto runs happening.

We occasionally run a damp cloth over cane to keep it clean. Every
two
years we
wash with sugar soap and then turpentine and then recoat with two
coats
of
diluted polyurethane. (ie cane and door frames).

Fair Winds

Graeme
sv Leonidas

My former boat (37 ft.) had all its cabinets faced with cane. It was
applied without the spline treatment, simply retained on the interior with a
roughly half-inch x half-inch molding. Not sure if the cane had been soaked
before installation or not. Durability was terrific (22 years and still
looking good) except for the one accident with crew falling into door. Nice
ventilation source. Pattern same as you are proposing to use, but that's
personal pref.. Needs poly/varnish finish coat, but makes for easy
maintenance. Highly recommended.

Max Lynn

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:IuF8d.56442$aW5.51825@fed1read07...
I am back on some fun stuff now that the weather has eased off. Interior
cabinet work. I need to make a lot of cabinet doors and with ventelation
in
mind am thinking about using pre-woven chair caning. Anyone have any
experience with how long it will last with things in the cabinet bumping
into it? I am leaning towards a herringbone pattern rather than the
traditional octagonal holes.

A couple more thoughts on the cane door panels, Glenn.

I did the first door with the cane on the outside, then did the next with cane
on the inside. With my skill-base, I decided that it was best to hide the
spline.

I found that you had to really dilute the polyurethane (50%) otherwise it
bridged between the canes and looked terrible.

I have teak battens (1 x 3/8 inches) on the leading edge of all shelves to help
retain stuff; partially successful, but a lot moves offshore and rests against
cane. No damage so far, but must always be careful when openning windward
lockers.

Big plus for cane is ventilation. Also appearance and easy replaceability.

Fair Winds

Graeme
sv Leonidas

Subject: Caned cabinet doors?
From: "Glenn Ashmore"

I am back on some fun stuff now that the weather has eased off. Interior
cabinet work. I need to make a lot of cabinet doors and with ventelation in
mind am thinking about using pre-woven chair caning. Anyone have any
experience with how long it will last with things in the cabinet bumping
into it? I am leaning towards a herringbone pattern rather than the
traditional octagonal holes.

I used some in some teak frames that I use to hide the back and side of the
microwave on my boat. I sprayed it with satin poly and it has lasted 10 years
so far.
If things bumping into it is going to be a problem could you put some kind of
rails on the back of the doors?
Capt. Bill