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#1
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http://www.48north.com/mr_offline/atomic.htm
"From what I know about Atomic 4's (A-4) is that if you have the basics, good spark (ignition), good compression and good clean fuel the engine should run. These three factors, along with proper maintenance, will keep the Atomic 4 going as it has for over thirty years. The Atomic 4, (also known as the Atomic Bomb or Anemic 4) is a very reliable engine. There were over 40,000 engines built with approximately half still out there running today! They are very simple, grass roots, low tech engines that (like every other engine) require routine maintenance such as frequent oil changes, tune ups, clean fuel, visual inspections, and proper cooling systems. " |
#2
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NEVER been a gas explosion on an A-4, impressive. BTW, what sort of
fuel economy do they get? I once heard a rumor that old Farmall Cub tractors used an Atomic 4 engine, true or not? |
#3
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#5
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Here are some Atomic 4 Engine links:
http://www.geocities.com/atomfour/ ATOMIC FOUR OWNER'S MANUAL: ATOMIC FOUR MAINTENANCE ALERT: http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/atomic4.htm Atomic 4: Smooth, worth another look Diesel envy? Take another look at the gasoline engine that came with your good old boat http://www.atomic4.com/ http://www3.telus.net/Atomic_4_Eng_Service/ http://www.moyermarine.com/ MOYER MARINE INC. UNIVERSAL ATOMIC 4 ENGINE PARTS AND REBUILDING We are the leading provider of parts and services for the Universal Atomic 4 Engine. We offer everything from completely rebuilt engines to those hard to find, remanufactured and aftermarket parts for this faithful companion to over three generations of sailors. http://storm.prohosting.com/yankee30/atomic4.htm * Sailnet Atomic 4 email list * Atomic 4 WWW Board * The Care and Feeding of the Universal Atomic 4 Engine * Free Atomic 4 Owners Manual, engine specs from Captain Ron * Free Atomic 4 Manual - at the C&C web site * Atomic 4 Parts Catalog - at the C&C web site * Atomic 4 Specifications - Robert Hess, Vancouver, B.C. * Atomic 4 FAQ - Robert Hess, Vancouver, B.C. * Atomic 4 FTP site - at Sailnet * Atomic 4 Service Manual -Seacraft Publications * Atomic 4 Service and Overhaul Manual - Don Moyer * Atomic 4 Engine Service, Parts, History of Universal Motors - Robert Hess, Vancouver, B.C. * Article from Good Old Boat Magazine - Atomic 4: Smooth, worth another look * Article from 48° North Magazine - Checking the Basics of the Atomic 4 Engine * Article from Sea Magazine - Restoring Atomic Power * Indigo Electronics aftermarket upgrade kits for Atomic 4 * Pertronix Electronic Ignition conversion * Atomic 4 Rebuilding and Parts by Moyer Marine * Foley Engines Atomic 4 fuel pump and carburetor upgrades * Atomic 4 Parts & Service - Bill Jayne, St. Petersburg, FL * Aftermarket Discount Marine Parts * Atomic 4 Parts - MarineParts.com * Diesel replacements from Westerbeke, Yanmar, Beta Marine, and Vetus * Atomic 4 - portside view (208 kb) * Atomic 4 - starboardside view (200 kb) * CDI Performance Propellers * Repowering "Frolic" with a Kubota Diesel * Repowering "Andiamo" with a Yanmar Diesel * Repowering "Tootsie" with a Nanni Diesel * Flushing out the Atomic 4 Cooling System * Flushing out the Atomic 4 Cooling System Using the Raw Water Pump * Thermostat housing "fix" |
#6
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I have heard so many good things about the Atomic 4, that if I had one
I wouldnt consider re-powering with diesel if my A4 worked well. |
#7
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The A4 was built to be a trackot engine, not a boat engine. ..... so I
have been told..... |
#8
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I had an A4 in my Cal when I bought it and the guy I bought it form
told me to replace it because it didn't work. All I did was replace a completely clogged fuel filter and it ran pretty well for a long time after that. I bought my boat in Long Beach CA and sailed her to Florida and then again around the Caribbean for another 4 years on the A4 and only replaced it after being moored in an electrical nightmare for 6 years. The engine actually was so bad that I broke much of what was left of it out and off with my hands. (even with zinks - not a good thing) I swore by the A4 because it was so quite and easy to fix. Long story short, I repowered her with a 28 hp diesel 2 years ago. The total cost with me doing all the labor was about 10K because there are many other things involved like linkage, a new fuel tank, exhaust, exhaust lifter, train, shaft, prop size and the list goes on. When I was all done with it I started cleaning out all my old spares. I had 2 extra carburetors, a new distributor, plugs, wires, and just about anything else you can think of. (BTW, my impellors were the same size so now I have lots of spares there). I now use less then =BD an hour as opposed to 1 gal an hour with the A4. I have a huge amount of extra power that I never had before and the engine is actually not that load. There are pros and cons with both but some of the pros of an A4 are not often talked about. In Mexico, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama, I needed fuel and GAS was the only thing around. Others with diesels where stuck. Anywhere that there is a car or outboard motor, you will find GAS but diesel is rare. The A4 is extremely quite compared to a diesel and most important to me, if the A4 is running, why on earth would you spend $10,000 or more and a month of your life changing it out? I put 20,000 miles on what was suppose to be a dead engine. My advice to anyone with an A4 is that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. ************ A4's use the same electrical as one of the old Mercury engines. I have it written down somewhere but all my books are in storage and I have forgotten the details. If you have an A4, the price of buying something like a distributor cap from an A4 company and buying the same thing from mercury at discount auto is about ten times the cost. I bought my distributor cap and rotor plug for my A4 for about $6 from chief auto. The guy in the Miami store new all the info and saved me a ton of money. Before you buy anything for an A4, look up what I am saying and find the numbers. You will save a fortune. |
#9
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On 31 Aug 2005 12:24:48 -0700, "palmtreedreamer"
wrote: The A4 was built to be a trackot engine, not a boat engine. ..... so I have been told..... That's a myth. While it is a simple engine, being a low-compression four-cylinder, four stroke, it is fully marinized and is made with a corrosion resistant block alloy. I have one in the boat and a rebuilt spare in the garage, oiled and waiting. I have nothing against diesel, but for the weekend cruiser/daysailer, gas is better than diesel from the point of view of the nature of the engines themselves. If I run my A4 for the 15 minutes it takes to get out of my basin and into clear air beyond the fairway buoys, I'll get the coolant temperature to maybe 140-150 F (the maximum with my thermostat is 180F if I have proper flow). The engine "doesn't care" if it's run for short periods, then turned off. A diesel, by contrast, is "happiest" with LONG runs (very efficient). You want the block to fully heat up: short runs on diesel at less than cruise RPM can be tough and wearing on the engine. Gas engines don't "care" to the same degree. So while I would consider taking a free diesel, and would insist/prefer a "big iron" Perkins 4-107/8 for a cruising/bluewater boat, the Atomic 4 is ideal for me currently. A buddy just put 125 hours on his in three weeks of cruising the Thousand Islands due to fluky or contrary winds. He swapped out a failed 30 year coil (he carried a spare) and did an oil change. Moyer Marine is the Mecca for Atomic 4s. http://www.moyermarine.com/rebuild.htm R. |
#10
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On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 01:41:23 -0400, rhys wrote:
So while I would consider taking a free diesel, and would insist/prefer a "big iron" Perkins 4-107/8 for a cruising/bluewater boat, the Atomic 4 is ideal for me currently. A buddy just put 125 hours on his in three weeks of cruising the Thousand Islands due to fluky or contrary winds. He swapped out a failed 30 year coil (he carried a spare) and did an oil change. I've put a lot on mine this summer, from Kingston up to the North Channel, and have had to do some minor maintenance. The simplicity of the engine is a huge advantage. A bigger plus -- many of the parts have automotive equivalents. I replaced the entire ignition system out of an auto parts store for about CDN$120. Then I swapped some pieces back in to determine where the problems were. On the other side of the equation, it eats through something approaching a gallon an hour, which would get into serious money for a trip down the ICW. Ryk |
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