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Bottom paint on prop
Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Mon, 21 Nov 2005 10:49:53 +1100, "d parker" wrote: "News f2s" wrote in message ... /// Well, once a month I take a swim with a wire brush, take a few deep breaths and the see how long I can stay underwater hanging on to the prop shaft. But then I'm in warm water (never less than 18C) and it's clean and clear. Sorry, didn't really answer your question, but that's my conventional wisdom on the subject. JimB hmmm... Ever thought of attaching a regular snorkel to some larger hose? Vacuum hose is great with a float at the loose end. You can stay down a lot longer. Some of the co2 you exhale will get re-inhaled each time. I havent passed out yet though.. Fingers crossed. DP How about a y fitting from the snorkel to two vacuum hoses, the float on one would have a caged ping pong ball for an outflow only and the float on the other would have a soft sprung flapper for an inflow only?? Brian Whatcott Altus OK All you need is an exhalation valve at the mask, and an iron lung to enable you to suck air below about 4 feet. Try it, just suck in through the mouth using a harden hose and exhale through your nose. Good luck. Or a powered snorkel pump on a float on the surface, know as a hooka, and some dive weights. Terry K |
Bottom paint on prop
"Terry Spragg" wrote in message ... Brian Whatcott wrote: On Mon, 21 Nov 2005 10:49:53 +1100, "d parker" wrote: "News f2s" wrote in message ... /// Well, once a month I take a swim with a wire brush, take a few deep breaths and the see how long I can stay underwater hanging on to the prop shaft. But then I'm in warm water (never less than 18C) and it's clean and clear. Sorry, didn't really answer your question, but that's my conventional wisdom on the subject. JimB hmmm... Ever thought of attaching a regular snorkel to some larger hose? Vacuum hose is great with a float at the loose end. You can stay down a lot longer. Some of the co2 you exhale will get re-inhaled each time. I havent passed out yet though.. Fingers crossed. DP How about a y fitting from the snorkel to two vacuum hoses, the float on one would have a caged ping pong ball for an outflow only and the float on the other would have a soft sprung flapper for an inflow only?? Brian Whatcott Altus OK All you need is an exhalation valve at the mask, and an iron lung to enable you to suck air below about 4 feet. Try it, just suck in through the mouth using a harden hose and exhale through your nose. Good luck. Or a powered snorkel pump on a float on the surface, know as a hooka, and some dive weights. Terry K Yeh the harden hose is difficult at longer lengths. So is garden hose. Thats why, in my initial post, i recomened a larger diameter hose you see :) DP |
Bottom paint on prop
On 20 Nov 2005 20:44:21 -0600, Dave wrote:
I did just what you're proposing last year. When the boat was hauled both the bottom paint and the barrier coat were gone, and the prop covered with barnacles. ============================================= There are primers and paints that work well, even here in SWFL, so do not take a defeatist position. My props and running gear were done by Olsen's in Ft Myers Beach last year and they have done extremely well. The primer they use is multi-step and bright yellow as they are applying it. Other than that I don't know what it is. Here are the Interlux recommendations: http://tinyurl.com/8mdqx |
Bottom paint on prop
On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 19:08:32 -0500, "Garland Gray II"
wrote: "Bil" wrote in On 20 Nov 2005 08:46:07 -0800, "beaufortnc" wrote: Hi, I'm prepping the bottom of my sailboat for barrier coat then ablative bottom paint. I'm thinking, however, that it might be a good idea to paint the prop with something like Trinidad instead of ablative. It seems to me that the ablative won't last long on the prop. What's the conventional wisdom here? What you use on your prop depends on your pattern of boating. Regular boat use, eg once or more a week, can mean no special treatment (depending on your local level of fouling). And on your prop: whether bronze or stainless steel or plastic etc. And on other characteristics of your prop, eg whether it's a surface prop, such as a Levi drive; or a deep prop; whether it's spinning at around 1,000 rpm or two or three times faster. If you have a new bronze prop, waxes applied during the polishing process can mean that no permanent treatment works until that wax is removed and, perhaps, an etch primer is used. Some treatments that do work: * Grease the prop: if you are cruising, but anchor or berth for up to a month, coating the prop with a salt-water resistant grease works (for about a month). I use a German-made grease, Bechem SW2, and send the cook over the side after taking a berth or anchorage. The grease spins off, taking any slime etc with it. No chance that it can change the balance of the prop. * Bagging the prop: a physical barrier, such as a plastic bag, works. But you have to send the cook (or the cook's assistant) over the side twice, once to install the bag, once to remove it. * Painting with an antifouling. Whether you use a hard or ablative antifouling matters little; the problem is getting the paint to adhere. New props are a problem, because of the waxes. Older props work better. And the primer/paint combination is important. One technique that works is to use an epoxy primer and to follow, within the prescribed recoating time (usually about an hour, before the epoxy primer has completely hardened) with antifouling. The next step is important: then leave to harden completely (ie about one week - any sooner and the primer will spin off). I've also used a zinc chromate primer, with some -but not complete - success. * Commercially applied silicon coatings. Expensive (applying yourself is not a good as paying the experts to apply). But works in many conditions, especially if the boat is used fairly often. Bil, This was very informative. Regarding your suggestion of epoxy primer followed by antifouling, which expoxy primer do you recommend, and what kind of antifouling ? I have saildrives with folding props. At last haulout I followed each of the many steps (Interlux Primecom as one layer comes to mind) required, but this seems simpler. Thanks. Garland: I always beg epoxy primer from the yard which has hauled me out - the prop does not need much and I usually have no other use for it. So I take whatever the yard has in terms of left over epoxy primer. My sailboat is currently wearing International Micron Extran (International is called Interlux stateside), so that's the antifoul I use. To reiterate, the important steps a 1. to apply the antifouling onto the epoxy primer before the epoxy has dried (usually the manufacturer will detail the timing on the package); and 2. to leave the epoxy/antifoul to harden for at least a week. I have two props, a 2-blade and a 3-blade, so I antifoul whichever is not on the prop shaft (because I am usually on the hard for only 3 days - and that is not long enough for the primer/antifoul coatings to harden). Cheers |
Bottom paint on prop
"Terry Spragg" wrote in message ... Well, once a month I take a swim with a wire brush, take a few deep breaths and the see how long I can stay underwater hanging on to the prop shaft. But then I'm in warm water (never less than 18C) and it's clean and clear. hmmm... Ever thought of attaching a regular snorkel to some larger hose? Vacuum hose is great with a float at the loose end. You can stay down a lot longer. Some of the co2 you exhale will get re-inhaled each time. How about a y fitting from the snorkel to two vacuum hoses, the float on one would have a caged ping pong ball for an outflow only and the float on the other would have a soft sprung flapper for an inflow only?? All you need is an exhalation valve at the mask, and an iron lung to enable you to suck air below about 4 feet. Try it, just suck in through the mouth using a harden hose and exhale through your nose. OK. Full story. Snorkel is attached to a long hose which goes up to the deck. Mask covers nose and eyes only. I breath out through the nose (which then bubbles out through the edges of the mask, good one way valve) and breath in through the snorkel. No need for any balls (unless the alligators are hungry). I've scrubbed a whole bottom this way. But I don't recommend anyone doing this unless they do some shallow water practice first, sitting in a pool. Ask a friend (!) to disconnect/block/duck the hose end into the water at random times to familiarise yourself with recovery routines. Then do this deeper. The purpose of these practice sessions, which you should do several times, is to get the feel of an imminent mouthful of water coming down the line, and develop routines to reduce your panic levels when it happens. Otherwise, feeling that gurgle in the pipe when you've just breathed out is quite a downer . . . don't ask. Oh, and have someone on deck looking out for you, with a bit of string to give you a couple of tugs if you should quickly come up for some reason. JimB |
Bottom paint on prop
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Bottom paint on prop
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Bottom paint on prop
In article ,
d parker wrote: All you need is an exhalation valve at the mask, and an iron lung to enable you to suck air below about 4 feet. Try it, just suck in through the mouth using a harden hose and exhale through your nose. Good luck. Or a powered snorkel pump on a float on the surface, know as a hooka, and some dive weights. Terry K Yeh the harden hose is difficult at longer lengths. So is garden hose. Thats why, in my initial post, i recomened a larger diameter hose you see :) When I was a kid, we decided to try this at the bottom of a swimming pool. I volunteered to be try breathing with the hose. There were four of us. I went below with the hose, then the other three kids took deep breaths and blew into the hose topside. I was able to extend my bottom time by about 2 minutes, until they got winded and I got dizzy. Well, I'm still hear and probably didn't damage too many brain cells. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Bottom paint on prop
Jonathan Ganz wrote:
In article , d parker wrote: All you need is an exhalation valve at the mask, and an iron lung to enable you to suck air below about 4 feet. Try it, just suck in through the mouth using a harden hose and exhale through your nose. Good luck. Or a powered snorkel pump on a float on the surface, know as a hooka, and some dive weights. Terry K Yeh the harden hose is difficult at longer lengths. So is garden hose. Thats why, in my initial post, i recomened a larger diameter hose you see :) When I was a kid, we decided to try this at the bottom of a swimming pool. I volunteered to be try breathing with the hose. There were four of us. I went below with the hose, then the other three kids took deep breaths and blew into the hose topside. I was able to extend my bottom time by about 2 minutes, until they got winded and I got dizzy. Well, I'm still hear and probably didn't damage too many brain cells. Damaged them enough to use hear instead of here. |
Bottom paint on prop
Thanks !
"Bil" wrote in message ... On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 19:08:32 -0500, "Garland Gray II" wrote: "Bil" wrote in On 20 Nov 2005 08:46:07 -0800, "beaufortnc" wrote: Hi, I'm prepping the bottom of my sailboat for barrier coat then ablative bottom paint. I'm thinking, however, that it might be a good idea to paint the prop with something like Trinidad instead of ablative. It seems to me that the ablative won't last long on the prop. What's the conventional wisdom here? What you use on your prop depends on your pattern of boating. Regular boat use, eg once or more a week, can mean no special treatment (depending on your local level of fouling). And on your prop: whether bronze or stainless steel or plastic etc. And on other characteristics of your prop, eg whether it's a surface prop, such as a Levi drive; or a deep prop; whether it's spinning at around 1,000 rpm or two or three times faster. If you have a new bronze prop, waxes applied during the polishing process can mean that no permanent treatment works until that wax is removed and, perhaps, an etch primer is used. Some treatments that do work: * Grease the prop: if you are cruising, but anchor or berth for up to a month, coating the prop with a salt-water resistant grease works (for about a month). I use a German-made grease, Bechem SW2, and send the cook over the side after taking a berth or anchorage. The grease spins off, taking any slime etc with it. No chance that it can change the balance of the prop. * Bagging the prop: a physical barrier, such as a plastic bag, works. But you have to send the cook (or the cook's assistant) over the side twice, once to install the bag, once to remove it. * Painting with an antifouling. Whether you use a hard or ablative antifouling matters little; the problem is getting the paint to adhere. New props are a problem, because of the waxes. Older props work better. And the primer/paint combination is important. One technique that works is to use an epoxy primer and to follow, within the prescribed recoating time (usually about an hour, before the epoxy primer has completely hardened) with antifouling. The next step is important: then leave to harden completely (ie about one week - any sooner and the primer will spin off). I've also used a zinc chromate primer, with some -but not complete - success. * Commercially applied silicon coatings. Expensive (applying yourself is not a good as paying the experts to apply). But works in many conditions, especially if the boat is used fairly often. Bil, This was very informative. Regarding your suggestion of epoxy primer followed by antifouling, which expoxy primer do you recommend, and what kind of antifouling ? I have saildrives with folding props. At last haulout I followed each of the many steps (Interlux Primecom as one layer comes to mind) required, but this seems simpler. Thanks. Garland: I always beg epoxy primer from the yard which has hauled me out - the prop does not need much and I usually have no other use for it. So I take whatever the yard has in terms of left over epoxy primer. My sailboat is currently wearing International Micron Extran (International is called Interlux stateside), so that's the antifoul I use. To reiterate, the important steps a 1. to apply the antifouling onto the epoxy primer before the epoxy has dried (usually the manufacturer will detail the timing on the package); and 2. to leave the epoxy/antifoul to harden for at least a week. I have two props, a 2-blade and a 3-blade, so I antifoul whichever is not on the prop shaft (because I am usually on the hard for only 3 days - and that is not long enough for the primer/antifoul coatings to harden). Cheers |
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