Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.cruising
Hobieshane
 
Posts: n/a
Default Head questions galore

Thanks for all the info. I am familiar with the toilet and the wet/dry
mode. That definitely isn't the issue as I move the lever to dry after
each use. Even in the dry mode, water is entering the head.

As simple as it sounds, I believe the issue is that I've been leaving
the seacock during the week when I'm not using the boat. I guess I
need to close the seacock between uses as well. This is inconvenient,
but possible as I have pretty easy access to the seacock.

I am still not sure about the second pump that I have. I will take
pictures and send, but here's a bit better explanation of if:

The pump is a hand pump similar to a manual bilge pump. It forms an
upside down "T".

1. Hose enters boat through seacock and does a loop to about 5' in the
air. This is a 2nd seacock - not the one used for water to enter the
head. It is also larger. Probably 1 1/2" hose vs. the smaller used
for the head intake.
2. It goes back to form the stick part of the T.
3. On the "across" part of the T (bottom of pump), there is flow going
from holding tank to the pump out access on the deck.

I am assuming this is used to help push the material out and to flush
the system.

  #2   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.cruising
Peggie Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Head questions galore



Hobieshane wrote:

Thanks for all the info. I am familiar with the toilet and the wet/dry
mode. That definitely isn't the issue as I move the lever to dry after
each use. Even in the dry mode, water is entering the head.

As simple as it sounds, I believe the issue is that I've been leaving
the seacock during the week when I'm not using the boat.


It's actually two issues--open seacock AND the wet/dry cam in the pump
has failed...it's not cutting off the flow of flush water any more.
That's a VERY common problem in Jabsco toilets made in the 5-6 years,
due to either a design or tooling defect. And apparently Jabsco has no
intention of correcting it till the mold for that little part wears out.

It also provides an excellent illustration of why relying on the wet/dry
valve instead of closing the seacocks when leaving the boat is VERY
risky...'cuz while it's a common problem in Jabsco toilets, no toilet is
immune from wet/dry valve failure.

I guess I
need to close the seacock between uses as well. This is inconvenient,
but possible as I have pretty easy access to the seacock.


A vented loop in the head intake would prevent water from rising in the
bowl while the boat is at rest, but would not prevent it while the boat
is underway. So, yes...till you replace the wet dry valve--or better
yet, replace the toilet with one that's better quality--you will have to
keep the seacocks closed between uses while underway, but if you install
a loop, you could leave 'em open at the dock.

I am still not sure about the second pump that I have. I will take
pictures and send, but here's a bit better explanation of if:

The pump is a hand pump similar to a manual bilge pump. It forms an
upside down "T".

1. Hose enters boat through seacock and does a loop to about 5' in the
air. This is a 2nd seacock - not the one used for water to enter the
head. It is also larger. Probably 1 1/2" hose vs. the smaller used
for the head intake.


That's your head DISCHARGE...the hose EXITS the boat at that thru-hull.
There should be a y-valve in that line that allows you to choose between
flushing directly overboard or into the tank.

What passes for a manual for your toilet is on the Jabsco website he
http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfo/overv...UAL_TOILET.PDF
You can see a drawing and illustrations of typical installations...I
think if you compare those illustrations to what you have, what you have
will become a lot clearer.


2. It goes back to form the stick part of the T.
3. On the "across" part of the T (bottom of pump), there is flow going
from holding tank to the pump out access on the deck.
I am assuming this is used to help push the material out and to flush
the system.


None of that makes any sense...I'm gonna have to see some photos and
sketches of the plumbing runs to know what you have. What you SHOULD have:

3/4" ID hose from intake through-hull to the pump...at the back on the
bottom of the "compartment" that houses the wet/dry lever and cam.
There should be no loop in that line.

3/4" hose coming off the top of the pump to the inlet fitting on the
back of the bowl. The should be a vented loop in that line that's high
enough to be at least 6-8" above the waterline at any angle of
heel...but there may not be...it may be only a short piece of hose
between the pump and bowl.

Both the pump and the bowl rest on a cross piece called the base. It's
not a pump...the Jabsco manual only has one dual action pump.

1" or 1.5" hose off the back of the bottom of the pump that MAY go only
to a tank, or may go to a y-valve...one side of the y-valve up and over
a vented loop (same height as the intake loop) and to a thru-hull..the
other side to a fitting at or on the top of the tank.

1/5" hose coming off the tank at the bottom...it will either go directly
the deck pumpout fitting, or MAY go to either a y-valve or tee
fitting...one side to the deck pumpout fitting, the other side to a pump
(manual diaphragm...i.e. Whale Gusher, or electric macerator pump), then
up and over yet a 3rd vented loop to a thru-hull--which may be separate
from the direct toilet discharge thru-hull, or may be teed into that
line to use the same thru-hull.

If what you have is much different from that, it's plumbed incorrectly
and needs to be corrected...but I suspect that's pretty much what you
have--+/- some or all vented loops.

If you aren't sure what things like manual discharge pumps, macerators,
y-valves (aka diverter valves) and vented loops look like, do a search
for 'em on any of the marine retail sites.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304
  #3   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.cruising
Hobieshane
 
Posts: n/a
Default Head questions galore

It's starting to make more sense now.

First, I need to replace my wet/dry cam.

Second, It looks like I have two options for pumping out the holding
tank: 1. Through the deck fitting or 2. Through the 1.5" hose exiting
the hull next to the fresh water intake seacock.

The whale pump appears to pump from the tank, go through a vented loop,
and exit the thru-hull. What I am still confused about is that the
pump out deck hose is connected to this as well. Is it as simple as
when the thru-hull is open, the whale pumps out through it? Otherwise,
I would pump out through the deck fitting.

I do want to note to everyone that I know to not pump directly to the
lake as I am inland.

  #4   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.cruising
Peggie Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Head questions galore

Hobieshane wrote:

First, I need to replace my wet/dry cam.


Sincee that may cost you half the price of whole new Jabsco toilet
(which gives you an idea of their quality), I'd replace the whole toilet
with a better one if it were my boat...but that's up to you.

The whale pump appears to pump from the tank, go through a vented loop,
and exit the thru-hull. What I am still confused about is that the
pump out deck hose is connected to this as well. Is it as simple as
when the thru-hull is open, the whale pumps out through it? Otherwise,
I would pump out through the deck fitting.


If there's only a tee or wye fitting in that line, yup...it's that
simple. If there's a y-valve, it's almost that simple...you just have to
turn the handle on the y-valve to direct the flow from the tank to the
pump instead of the deck pumpout fitting.

However, I forgot to mention one more hose that comes off the tank: the
tank vent line, which will come off the tank at or on the top and go to
an above-waterline thru-hull fitting (btw, all your tanks--water, waste
and fuel--have vents, so this applies to 'em all) that'll most likely be
somewhere near the toe rail. It's essential to make sure the vent line
never becomes clogged...'cuz if it does, air displaced by incoming
flushes has nowhere to escape...the tank will become pressurized--which
can have disastrous consequences, from an eruption in the toilet or out
the deck pumpout fitting to a burst tank--and it will also be impossible
to empty the tank, because the pumpout will pull a vacuum. A strong
pumpout can even implode a tank. So check your vent thru-hull
regularly...backflush it each time you pumpout and/or wash the boat. And
cease all use of the toilet immediately if you start to experience
increasing backpressure or the toilet "burps" or backs up till the vent
has been cleared.

I do want to note to everyone that I know to not pump directly to the
lake as I am inland.


In that case, you need to check with local law enforcement to find out
whether you'll have remove the manual pump and all plumbing from the
toilet and/or tank to the overboard discharge thru-hulls. Although
simply "securing" the system from "accidental" overboard discharge as
prescribed by federal law is legal in coastal waters, some states have
made it illegal even to have the ability to discharge the toilet or tank
on inland waters.

As a new Hunter owner, you might want to check out this site:
http://www.hunterowners.com/index.htm I think you'll enjoy it AND learn
a lot from the other owners there.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTB: Robertson AP35 Auto Pilot Control Head in Cape Coral, FL Wayne.B Marketplace 0 November 13th 05 04:44 AM
American Sailing Association frequently asked questions Paul R. Fortin ASA 0 November 2nd 05 05:32 AM
Water generator or Solar power questions Len Cruising 0 October 20th 05 10:41 PM
WTB: Autohelm 4000 control head in Washington state Richard Lane Marketplace 0 October 16th 05 12:35 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:57 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2025 BoatBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Boats"

 

Copyright © 2017