Cindy Ballreich wrote:

We're considering a couple of different fresh water flushing arangements
for our system. If we use the "tee" to the sink, we would need to flush
with the drain plug in place to use salt water. Is that correct?

Correct.

In our
system, it would probably be easier to "tee" to a capped hose which
could be uncapped and stuck in a bucket when we want to flush with fresh
water. Is there any reason why this would be a bad idea?

Not a bad idea, but a lot more work than it needs to be unless you only
plan to use it to flush out the system before the boat will sit.

If you want to flush all the time with fresh water, and if teeing the
intake directly into the head sink drain is impractical, consider going
with this "Plan B:" Stuff an unvented bladder into any location that'll
work...connect the head intake to the bladder...tee the fill line for
the bladder into the head sink drain line using a garden hose y-valve
that you can get from any hardware store for about $3. When the bladder
needs refilling, open the y in the sink drain to go it, run water down
the sink. A y-valve in the head intake line--one side to the bladder,
the other to the thru-hull--will let you have it both ways...flush with
sea water while well away from shore in clean water...switch to the
bladder while in the marina or other waters polluted by runoff.


Also, can you recommend a good pump lubricant for a Raritan Compact II
head? I found some Wilcox Criton head lubricant, but it says it contains
mineral spirits which I don't think would be good for the parts.

Mineral spirits won't hurt 'em. Mineral OIL (baby oil) works just as
well and costs less.

But anything thin enough to be poured down the toilet is just gonna wash
out in a few flushes...it's a never ending battle. Every toilet leaves
the factory slathered with thick teflon grease that lasts at least a
full season, sometimes two season. So if you only want to have to lube
the toilet once a year, buy a tube of the stuff (SuperLube is what
Raritan uses, and IMO the best quality...but any teflon grease from bike
shops and swimming pool supply stores will do)...it'll cost you about $5
and one tube will last longer than you'll prob'ly keep the boat. Loosen
the hex nut on the top of the pump so you have access to the inside of
it...stick the nozzle of the tube in and give it healthy squirt. Pump a
couple of times to spread it all over the inside of the pump
cylinder...repeat if you want to...re-tighten the hex nut...you're done.
The toilet will pump smoothly all season without any need for any more
lubrication. Best time to do it: as part of spring recommissioning
preventive maintenance.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Peggie Hall wrote:

In our system, it would probably be easier to "tee" to a capped hose
which could be uncapped and stuck in a bucket when we want to flush
with fresh water. Is there any reason why this would be a bad idea?

Not a bad idea, but a lot more work than it needs to be unless you only
plan to use it to flush out the system before the boat will sit.


Yes, this would only be used between trips. We don't have enough fresh
water on the boat to flush with it all the time. Besides, when were on a
trip the head gets used enough that smells aren't a problem.

Mineral spirits won't hurt 'em. Mineral OIL (baby oil) works just as
well and costs less.

But anything thin enough to be poured down the toilet is just gonna wash
out in a few flushes...it's a never ending battle. Every toilet leaves
the factory slathered with thick teflon grease that lasts at least a
full season, sometimes two season. So if you only want to have to lube
the toilet once a year, buy a tube of the stuff (SuperLube is what
Raritan uses, and IMO the best quality...but any teflon grease from bike
shops and swimming pool supply stores will do)...it'll cost you about $5
and one tube will last longer than you'll prob'ly keep the boat. Loosen
the hex nut on the top of the pump so you have access to the inside of
it...stick the nozzle of the tube in and give it healthy squirt. Pump a
couple of times to spread it all over the inside of the pump
cylinder...repeat if you want to...re-tighten the hex nut...you're done.
The toilet will pump smoothly all season without any need for any more
lubrication. Best time to do it: as part of spring recommissioning
preventive maintenance.

This is exactly the info I was looking for! Thanks!!

Cindy


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