Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure differentials.


The RTV you are referring to may be the 2-part compound that is not
readily available to or commonly used by the DIY'er.

Common references to RTV are to the single component acetic acid and
moisture cured material found in home stores and recreational boat
shops. It will not bond to the wiring jacket and water will wick into
the splice. It will corrode the conductors. It may take a year or so
depending on how severe the exposure and how well the rest of the splice
was made but it will wick and the joint will corrode and fail.

Rick

solomio wrote:

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -

I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also
completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat.
About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor
lights will now be on the mast.
A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a
dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three
pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the
bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast
plugged into those sockets.
Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden
deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water
froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess!
I intend to avoid any connectors at all by running wires (once
per season) through well caulked hole/s in the deck in an area
where there is no wood. These wires would be terminated on a
terminal strip in the toilet/head compartment below.
Alternatively to bring wires up through the deck (through a well
caulked hole as above) and mount or strap
plugs/socket/connectors to the side of the mast above deck level.
Also to have spare connectors etc. to replace if corrosion
occurs. No 'connectors' as such up on the mast itself, wires
directly to each lamp socket.
Any suggestions welcomed. But if sockets what type? Terry.

solomio wrote:

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -

I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also
completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat.
About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor
lights will now be on the mast.
A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a
dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three
pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the
bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast
plugged into those sockets.
Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden
deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water
froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess!
I intend to avoid any connectors at all by running wires (once
per season) through well caulked hole/s in the deck in an area
where there is no wood. These wires would be terminated on a
terminal strip in the toilet/head compartment below.
Alternatively to bring wires up through the deck (through a well
caulked hole as above) and mount or strap
plugs/socket/connectors to the side of the mast above deck level.
Also to have spare connectors etc. to replace if corrosion
occurs. No 'connectors' as such up on the mast itself, wires
directly to each lamp socket.
Any suggestions welcomed. But if sockets what type? Terry.

solomio wrote in message . ..
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -

Look at "yachtbits.co.uk", they have some aterproof connectors that
are "Lloys' approved". I've used them for my NASA masthead windmeter
and they've given me very good results.
john

solomio wrote in message . ..
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -

Look at "yachtbits.co.uk", they have some aterproof connectors that
are "Lloys' approved". I've used them for my NASA masthead windmeter
and they've given me very good results.
john

Steve wrote:

The real good connectors have a adhesive inside that seals the job.

Or pipe them full of RTV, then shrink them, open end first.

Steve wrote:

The real good connectors have a adhesive inside that seals the job.

Or pipe them full of RTV, then shrink them, open end first.

I've used dielectric silicone grease in connectors to waterproof them. Never
used curing type silicone caulks... the acetic acid will corrode the
connectors I hear. Is there a special RTV for electrical use that cures?

"Greg" wrote in message
...
Rick,
The phone companies and the Navy have used RTV for years to make sealed
connections on cables and it will not wick as badly as most off the shelf
connectors will, if done properely. These are for both aerial and
sub-surface applications. I have used it with Canon and Amphenol
multi-conductor cables as well.

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?
Greg.

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink
pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,

Any seal that relies on RTV will take more than luck. RTV will fail to
seal and water will wick into the connection and destroy it. It is as
predictable as sunrise.

There are many off the shelf connectors and sealing materials for that
application and nearly all of them are far superior to any of the
silicone adhesive sealants so often misused by the DIY'er.

Rick





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I've used dielectric silicone grease in connectors to waterproof them. Never
used curing type silicone caulks... the acetic acid will corrode the
connectors I hear. Is there a special RTV for electrical use that cures?

"Greg" wrote in message
...
Rick,
The phone companies and the Navy have used RTV for years to make sealed
connections on cables and it will not wick as badly as most off the shelf
connectors will, if done properely. These are for both aerial and
sub-surface applications. I have used it with Canon and Amphenol
multi-conductor cables as well.

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?
Greg.

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink
pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,

Any seal that relies on RTV will take more than luck. RTV will fail to
seal and water will wick into the connection and destroy it. It is as
predictable as sunrise.

There are many off the shelf connectors and sealing materials for that
application and nearly all of them are far superior to any of the
silicone adhesive sealants so often misused by the DIY'er.

Rick





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http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Sooo..... What DID you use as a sealant, now that you've submitted your
credentials, and convinced us all that you know what you're talking about?


"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure
differentials.


The RTV you are referring to may be the 2-part compound that is not
readily available to or commonly used by the DIY'er.

Common references to RTV are to the single component acetic acid and
moisture cured material found in home stores and recreational boat
shops. It will not bond to the wiring jacket and water will wick into
the splice. It will corrode the conductors. It may take a year or so
depending on how severe the exposure and how well the rest of the splice
was made but it will wick and the joint will corrode and fail.

Rick