How do you get the plastic taste out of fresh water holding tanks? I've
tried the clorox treatment several times and nothing. Is there anything out
there?

Lou Cragin wrote:
How do you get the plastic taste out of fresh water holding tanks?
I've tried the clorox treatment several times and nothing. Is there
anything out there?

Most likely the problem isn't in the tank, but in the plumbing...it may
seem to be a "plastic" taste, but is actually caused by the molds, fungi
etc that thrive in damp dark places. So if you've only "treated" the
tank, you haven't gotten to the source of it. Try this (and btw, it
will also get rid of the taste/odor of antifreeze next spring):

Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by
allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think
only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most
foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it
thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some
boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the
problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home
for those “critters.”

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water
fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially
warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and
plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the
A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational
vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health
officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been
used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn
it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4
oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ).
With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of
solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity.

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do
not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized
and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this
in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the
faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the
tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on
the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by
fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are
are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock
treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding
chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good
idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before
putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to rubber
and neoprene water pump parts. Again—the cumulative effect of carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional
“shock treatment.” And it’s that cumulative effect that makes it a VERY
bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage
the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell
like a laundry, it’s not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any
“purifying” properties in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving
behind only the corrosive properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above
directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting
and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land.
If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember
that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that
filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.


To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep
water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start
to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each
time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the
same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line
and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to
transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your
boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the
water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is
coming straight from the water main.

Finally, while the molds, fungi and bacteria in onboard water systems
here in the US may not be pleasant, we're dealing only with
aesthetics...water purity isn't an issue here--or in most developed
nations...the water supply has already been purified (unless you're
using well-water). However, when cruising out of the country, it's a
good idea to know what you're putting in your tanks...and if you're in
any doubt, boil all water that's to be drunk or used to wash dishes,
and/or treat each tankful to purify. It's even more important in these
areas to let the water run before putting it in the tank, because any
harmful bacteria will REALLY proliferate in water hoses left sitting on
the dock.

(the above an excerpt from my book)

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Lou Cragin wrote:
How do you get the plastic taste out of fresh water holding tanks?
I've tried the clorox treatment several times and nothing. Is there
anything out there?

Most likely the problem isn't in the tank, but in the plumbing...it may
seem to be a "plastic" taste, but is actually caused by the molds, fungi
etc that thrive in damp dark places. So if you've only "treated" the
tank, you haven't gotten to the source of it. Try this (and btw, it
will also get rid of the taste/odor of antifreeze next spring):

Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by
allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think
only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most
foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it
thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some
boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the
problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home
for those “critters.”

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water
fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially
warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and
plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the
A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational
vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health
officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been
used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn
it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4
oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ).
With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of
solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity.

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do
not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized
and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this
in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the
faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the
tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on
the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by
fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are
are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock
treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding
chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good
idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before
putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to rubber
and neoprene water pump parts. Again—the cumulative effect of carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional
“shock treatment.” And it’s that cumulative effect that makes it a VERY
bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage
the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell
like a laundry, it’s not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any
“purifying” properties in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving
behind only the corrosive properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above
directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting
and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land.
If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember
that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that
filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.


To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep
water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start
to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each
time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the
same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line
and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to
transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your
boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the
water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is
coming straight from the water main.

Finally, while the molds, fungi and bacteria in onboard water systems
here in the US may not be pleasant, we're dealing only with
aesthetics...water purity isn't an issue here--or in most developed
nations...the water supply has already been purified (unless you're
using well-water). However, when cruising out of the country, it's a
good idea to know what you're putting in your tanks...and if you're in
any doubt, boil all water that's to be drunk or used to wash dishes,
and/or treat each tankful to purify. It's even more important in these
areas to let the water run before putting it in the tank, because any
harmful bacteria will REALLY proliferate in water hoses left sitting on
the dock.

(the above an excerpt from my book)

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

An GRP tank will continue to leach monomers of styrene for the life of
the tank. You could extract the remaining unpolymerized species with
super toxics like methylene chloride ... but then you'd have a
humongous disposal problem and a tank containing a potent carcinogen.

That you have a 'plastic taste' means that something in your system is
leaching chemicals and is probably not in conformance to specs for
potable water components. You can do a websearch for NSF (National
Sanitation Foundation) approved components (or better yet move up three
notches to FDA regs.). When choosing potable water system componentry
make sure that the object at least complies to NSF regulations (for
leachables, etc.).

If possible, replace your tankage with either Stainless or UHMW
Polyethylene. If the present tank can be cut open and or removed,
consider to purchase pre-laminated panels of UHMWPE facing over Epoxy
substrate and insert/epoxy to the walls. Get a plastics welder to run a
polyethylene bead at the seams to seal the water from the epoxy
substrate.

A poor alternative would be to use a carbon packed (using FDA/USP grade
carbon) 'filter' but then there would be no way to know when to change
..... other than a crude 'taste; test that would indicate that youve
been drinking styrene monomer, etc. for a long period before it
'breaks-through' the filter and your taste buds finally kick in to tell
you thats something is not right. . A carbon absorbing filter should
be drained completely during long term non-use to prevent growth of
microorganism that use the carbon as a nutrient source. If you go this
route if possible select a carbon system that is made from 'extruded'
carbon ( a micro-sponge made from carbon), as a loose pack of carbon
will eventually break up into very small carbon particles (carrying the
absorbed species into your gastro-intestinal tract, etc.).

An GRP tank will continue to leach monomers of styrene for the life of
the tank. You could extract the remaining unpolymerized species with
super toxics like methylene chloride ... but then you'd have a
humongous disposal problem and a tank containing a potent carcinogen.

That you have a 'plastic taste' means that something in your system is
leaching chemicals and is probably not in conformance to specs for
potable water components. You can do a websearch for NSF (National
Sanitation Foundation) approved components (or better yet move up three
notches to FDA regs.). When choosing potable water system componentry
make sure that the object at least complies to NSF regulations (for
leachables, etc.).

If possible, replace your tankage with either Stainless or UHMW
Polyethylene. If the present tank can be cut open and or removed,
consider to purchase pre-laminated panels of UHMWPE facing over Epoxy
substrate and insert/epoxy to the walls. Get a plastics welder to run a
polyethylene bead at the seams to seal the water from the epoxy
substrate.

A poor alternative would be to use a carbon packed (using FDA/USP grade
carbon) 'filter' but then there would be no way to know when to change
..... other than a crude 'taste; test that would indicate that youve
been drinking styrene monomer, etc. for a long period before it
'breaks-through' the filter and your taste buds finally kick in to tell
you thats something is not right. . A carbon absorbing filter should
be drained completely during long term non-use to prevent growth of
microorganism that use the carbon as a nutrient source. If you go this
route if possible select a carbon system that is made from 'extruded'
carbon ( a micro-sponge made from carbon), as a loose pack of carbon
will eventually break up into very small carbon particles (carrying the
absorbed species into your gastro-intestinal tract, etc.).

If you do not like the taste of chlorine, you can use hydrogen peroxide
(H2O2) which will decompose to non-harmful components, e.g. just pure water
and oxygen. Hydrogen peroxide is used in food industry for preventing
microbial growth and sterilizing liquid material and is safe. And it is not
harmfull to materials in water system, e,g, no corrosion problems.

Typical effective dosage is in the range of min. 25 ppm (part per million),
e.g. by using 30 % hydrogen peroxide concentrate with specific weight of
1,11 g/ml, dosage is 8 ml/100 L water (about 0,25 Oz/27 gall of water). You
can easily go up to 10-fold dosing (e.g. 250 ppm) without any harmful
effects.

30 % hydrogen peroxide must be treated carefully avoiding any skin contacts
(gloves and protecting eyes). It must be stored in dark in glass bottles.
The best option is to buy a small quantity fresh from Pharmacy and use is
within weeks. After dilution (below 3 % solution) it is harmless and has
been widely used for wound cleaning and sterilization. If you buy diluted
solution (like 3%), add more accordingly to your water system (10-fold more
compared using 30% hydrogen peroxide solution). Remember, dilute solution is
gradually decomposing to water and oxygen in the bottle kept in light,
therefore use freshly bought solution.

The treatment of the system follows the same rules as indicated by Peggy.
Thorough flushing is not so crucial, because hydrogen peroxide itself
decomposes to harmless components.

If the smell is caused by plastic itself, hydrogen peroxide is not able to
remove it. The the best solution then is to use activated carbon column in
water line. If you can assemble an activated carbon column into the suction
side (before course screen in front of the pump) of your domestic water
pump, 1 liter of granulated carbon in the column typically can remove odors
from thousands of liters of water. Note that granulated activated carbon
leaks a little bit of black fines (even if is initially flushed properly
with water to remove fines) and therefore adds some load to your fine
filtration system. If you can assemble the column in suction side, the
column must not be pressurized, but if you put it in between the pump and
the fine filter, the column must be able to tolerate the system pressure.

Hope this helps
Wallu

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Lou Cragin wrote:
How do you get the plastic taste out of fresh water holding tanks?
I've tried the clorox treatment several times and nothing. Is there
anything out there?

Most likely the problem isn't in the tank, but in the plumbing...it may
seem to be a "plastic" taste, but is actually caused by the molds, fungi
etc that thrive in damp dark places. So if you've only "treated" the
tank, you haven't gotten to the source of it. Try this (and btw, it
will also get rid of the taste/odor of antifreeze next spring):

Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by
allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think
only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most
foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it
thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some
boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the
problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home
for those “critters.”

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water
fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially
warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and
plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the
A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational
vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health
officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been
used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn
it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4
oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ).
With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of
solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity.

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do
not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized
and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this
in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the
faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the
tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on
the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by
fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are
are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock
treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding
chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good
idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before
putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to rubber
and neoprene water pump parts. Again—the cumulative effect of carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional
“shock treatment.” And it’s that cumulative effect that makes it a VERY
bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage
the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell
like a laundry, it’s not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any
“purifying” properties in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving
behind only the corrosive properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above
directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting
and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land.
If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember
that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that
filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.


To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep
water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start
to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each
time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the
same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line
and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to
transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your
boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the
water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is
coming straight from the water main.

Finally, while the molds, fungi and bacteria in onboard water systems
here in the US may not be pleasant, we're dealing only with
aesthetics...water purity isn't an issue here--or in most developed
nations...the water supply has already been purified (unless you're
using well-water). However, when cruising out of the country, it's a
good idea to know what you're putting in your tanks...and if you're in
any doubt, boil all water that's to be drunk or used to wash dishes,
and/or treat each tankful to purify. It's even more important in these
areas to let the water run before putting it in the tank, because any
harmful bacteria will REALLY proliferate in water hoses left sitting on
the dock.

(the above an excerpt from my book)

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

If you do not like the taste of chlorine, you can use hydrogen peroxide
(H2O2) which will decompose to non-harmful components, e.g. just pure water
and oxygen. Hydrogen peroxide is used in food industry for preventing
microbial growth and sterilizing liquid material and is safe. And it is not
harmfull to materials in water system, e,g, no corrosion problems.

Typical effective dosage is in the range of min. 25 ppm (part per million),
e.g. by using 30 % hydrogen peroxide concentrate with specific weight of
1,11 g/ml, dosage is 8 ml/100 L water (about 0,25 Oz/27 gall of water). You
can easily go up to 10-fold dosing (e.g. 250 ppm) without any harmful
effects.

30 % hydrogen peroxide must be treated carefully avoiding any skin contacts
(gloves and protecting eyes). It must be stored in dark in glass bottles.
The best option is to buy a small quantity fresh from Pharmacy and use is
within weeks. After dilution (below 3 % solution) it is harmless and has
been widely used for wound cleaning and sterilization. If you buy diluted
solution (like 3%), add more accordingly to your water system (10-fold more
compared using 30% hydrogen peroxide solution). Remember, dilute solution is
gradually decomposing to water and oxygen in the bottle kept in light,
therefore use freshly bought solution.

The treatment of the system follows the same rules as indicated by Peggy.
Thorough flushing is not so crucial, because hydrogen peroxide itself
decomposes to harmless components.

If the smell is caused by plastic itself, hydrogen peroxide is not able to
remove it. The the best solution then is to use activated carbon column in
water line. If you can assemble an activated carbon column into the suction
side (before course screen in front of the pump) of your domestic water
pump, 1 liter of granulated carbon in the column typically can remove odors
from thousands of liters of water. Note that granulated activated carbon
leaks a little bit of black fines (even if is initially flushed properly
with water to remove fines) and therefore adds some load to your fine
filtration system. If you can assemble the column in suction side, the
column must not be pressurized, but if you put it in between the pump and
the fine filter, the column must be able to tolerate the system pressure.

Hope this helps
Wallu

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Lou Cragin wrote:
How do you get the plastic taste out of fresh water holding tanks?
I've tried the clorox treatment several times and nothing. Is there
anything out there?

Most likely the problem isn't in the tank, but in the plumbing...it may
seem to be a "plastic" taste, but is actually caused by the molds, fungi
etc that thrive in damp dark places. So if you've only "treated" the
tank, you haven't gotten to the source of it. Try this (and btw, it
will also get rid of the taste/odor of antifreeze next spring):

Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by
allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think
only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most
foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it
thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some
boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the
problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home
for those “critters.”

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water
fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially
warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and
plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the
A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational
vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health
officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been
used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn
it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4
oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ).
With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of
solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity.

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do
not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized
and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this
in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the
faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the
tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on
the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by
fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are
are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock
treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding
chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good
idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before
putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to rubber
and neoprene water pump parts. Again—the cumulative effect of carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional
“shock treatment.” And it’s that cumulative effect that makes it a VERY
bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage
the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell
like a laundry, it’s not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any
“purifying” properties in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving
behind only the corrosive properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above
directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting
and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land.
If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember
that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that
filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.


To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep
water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start
to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each
time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the
same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line
and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to
transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your
boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the
water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is
coming straight from the water main.

Finally, while the molds, fungi and bacteria in onboard water systems
here in the US may not be pleasant, we're dealing only with
aesthetics...water purity isn't an issue here--or in most developed
nations...the water supply has already been purified (unless you're
using well-water). However, when cruising out of the country, it's a
good idea to know what you're putting in your tanks...and if you're in
any doubt, boil all water that's to be drunk or used to wash dishes,
and/or treat each tankful to purify. It's even more important in these
areas to let the water run before putting it in the tank, because any
harmful bacteria will REALLY proliferate in water hoses left sitting on
the dock.

(the above an excerpt from my book)

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html