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#1
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Through-hull question
We replaced all the through-hulls on my Islander 29 with new bronze
through-hulls and bronze/stainless ball valves. The threads on the through-hulls were straight threads, while the threads on the ball valves were tapered [pipe] threads. As a consequence the ball valves only tightened down on the through-hulls by about 2 "turns". The yardman that did the job said that was the "accepted practice" and not to worry about it. But,,,, in this month's issue of Good Old Boat's newsletter supplement there's this,,, "You must use straight threads on both the valve and through-hull, or tapered on both. Mixing tapered and straight threads is the worst thing you can do, and sadly it is [or was] common". So, my question is,,,, does anyone know where to obtain bronze/stainless ball valves with straight threads? Easier to replace the ball valves rather than the through-hulls. I'd use proper seacocks but they require bolting to the hull which would be difficult with a fiberglass hull. Thanking you in advance, Trent Sanders S/V Cimba Marina Del Rey Southern California |
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#2
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Through-hull question
I think you have answered your own question. To the best of
my knowledge ball valves are not acceptable for seacocks. Not sure why. That may be why thru-hulls and seacocks use straight threads. So ball valves won't fit. I've never had a seacock bolted to the hull. Normally the thru-hull is bedded and secured with the retaining ring and the seacock is just threaded on. Even though the seacock has a flange that will accept bolts, the flange has always just floated. Doug s/v Callista "Trent D. Sanders" wrote in message om... We replaced all the through-hulls on my Islander 29 with new bronze through-hulls and bronze/stainless ball valves. The threads on the through-hulls were straight threads, while the threads on the ball valves were tapered [pipe] threads. As a consequence the ball valves only tightened down on the through-hulls by about 2 "turns". The yardman that did the job said that was the "accepted practice" and not to worry about it. But,,,, in this month's issue of Good Old Boat's newsletter supplement there's this,,, "You must use straight threads on both the valve and through-hull, or tapered on both. Mixing tapered and straight threads is the worst thing you can do, and sadly it is [or was] common". So, my question is,,,, does anyone know where to obtain bronze/stainless ball valves with straight threads? Easier to replace the ball valves rather than the through-hulls. I'd use proper seacocks but they require bolting to the hull which would be difficult with a fiberglass hull. Thanking you in advance, Trent Sanders S/V Cimba Marina Del Rey Southern California |
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#3
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Through-hull question
I think you have answered your own question. To the best of
my knowledge ball valves are not acceptable for seacocks. Not sure why. That may be why thru-hulls and seacocks use straight threads. So ball valves won't fit. I've never had a seacock bolted to the hull. Normally the thru-hull is bedded and secured with the retaining ring and the seacock is just threaded on. Even though the seacock has a flange that will accept bolts, the flange has always just floated. Doug s/v Callista "Trent D. Sanders" wrote in message om... We replaced all the through-hulls on my Islander 29 with new bronze through-hulls and bronze/stainless ball valves. The threads on the through-hulls were straight threads, while the threads on the ball valves were tapered [pipe] threads. As a consequence the ball valves only tightened down on the through-hulls by about 2 "turns". The yardman that did the job said that was the "accepted practice" and not to worry about it. But,,,, in this month's issue of Good Old Boat's newsletter supplement there's this,,, "You must use straight threads on both the valve and through-hull, or tapered on both. Mixing tapered and straight threads is the worst thing you can do, and sadly it is [or was] common". So, my question is,,,, does anyone know where to obtain bronze/stainless ball valves with straight threads? Easier to replace the ball valves rather than the through-hulls. I'd use proper seacocks but they require bolting to the hull which would be difficult with a fiberglass hull. Thanking you in advance, Trent Sanders S/V Cimba Marina Del Rey Southern California |
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#4
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Through-hull question
"Trent D. Sanders" wrote in message
om... We replaced all the through-hulls on my Islander 29 with new bronze through-hulls and bronze/stainless ball valves. The threads on the through-hulls were straight threads, while the threads on the ball valves were tapered [pipe] threads. As a consequence the ball valves only tightened down on the through-hulls by about 2 "turns". The yardman that did the job said that was the "accepted practice" and not to worry about it. But,,,, in this month's issue of Good Old Boat's newsletter supplement there's this,,, "You must use straight threads on both the valve and through-hull, or tapered on both. Mixing tapered and straight threads is the worst thing you can do, and sadly it is [or was] common". So, my question is,,,, does anyone know where to obtain bronze/stainless ball valves with straight threads? Easier to replace the ball valves rather than the through-hulls. I'd use proper seacocks but they require bolting to the hull which would be difficult with a fiberglass hull. Thanking you in advance, Trent Sanders S/V Cimba Marina Del Rey Southern California If you can find a tap of the right size, you could "untaper" the ball valve so it fits correctly. |
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#5
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Through-hull question
"Trent D. Sanders" wrote in message
om... We replaced all the through-hulls on my Islander 29 with new bronze through-hulls and bronze/stainless ball valves. The threads on the through-hulls were straight threads, while the threads on the ball valves were tapered [pipe] threads. As a consequence the ball valves only tightened down on the through-hulls by about 2 "turns". The yardman that did the job said that was the "accepted practice" and not to worry about it. But,,,, in this month's issue of Good Old Boat's newsletter supplement there's this,,, "You must use straight threads on both the valve and through-hull, or tapered on both. Mixing tapered and straight threads is the worst thing you can do, and sadly it is [or was] common". So, my question is,,,, does anyone know where to obtain bronze/stainless ball valves with straight threads? Easier to replace the ball valves rather than the through-hulls. I'd use proper seacocks but they require bolting to the hull which would be difficult with a fiberglass hull. Thanking you in advance, Trent Sanders S/V Cimba Marina Del Rey Southern California If you can find a tap of the right size, you could "untaper" the ball valve so it fits correctly. |
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#6
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Through-hull question
Wrong...
if you use a proper seacock, throw the nut from the through hull away. The seacock should be through bolted, but mose people seem to screw it to the backing plate. Which is better than nothing. Also throw away those ball vales, they are not designed for this task and. Yes you are correct you only have 2 or 3 threads seperating you from a sinking! Pierre "doug dotson" wrote in message ... I think you have answered your own question. To the best of my knowledge ball valves are not acceptable for seacocks. Not sure why. That may be why thru-hulls and seacocks use straight threads. So ball valves won't fit. I've never had a seacock bolted to the hull. Normally the thru-hull is bedded and secured with the retaining ring and the seacock is just threaded on. Even though the seacock has a flange that will accept bolts, the flange has always just floated. Doug s/v Callista "Trent D. Sanders" wrote in message om... We replaced all the through-hulls on my Islander 29 with new bronze through-hulls and bronze/stainless ball valves. The threads on the through-hulls were straight threads, while the threads on the ball valves were tapered [pipe] threads. As a consequence the ball valves only tightened down on the through-hulls by about 2 "turns". The yardman that did the job said that was the "accepted practice" and not to worry about it. But,,,, in this month's issue of Good Old Boat's newsletter supplement there's this,,, "You must use straight threads on both the valve and through-hull, or tapered on both. Mixing tapered and straight threads is the worst thing you can do, and sadly it is [or was] common". So, my question is,,,, does anyone know where to obtain bronze/stainless ball valves with straight threads? Easier to replace the ball valves rather than the through-hulls. I'd use proper seacocks but they require bolting to the hull which would be difficult with a fiberglass hull. Thanking you in advance, Trent Sanders S/V Cimba Marina Del Rey Southern California |
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#7
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Through-hull question
Wrong...
if you use a proper seacock, throw the nut from the through hull away. The seacock should be through bolted, but mose people seem to screw it to the backing plate. Which is better than nothing. Also throw away those ball vales, they are not designed for this task and. Yes you are correct you only have 2 or 3 threads seperating you from a sinking! Pierre "doug dotson" wrote in message ... I think you have answered your own question. To the best of my knowledge ball valves are not acceptable for seacocks. Not sure why. That may be why thru-hulls and seacocks use straight threads. So ball valves won't fit. I've never had a seacock bolted to the hull. Normally the thru-hull is bedded and secured with the retaining ring and the seacock is just threaded on. Even though the seacock has a flange that will accept bolts, the flange has always just floated. Doug s/v Callista "Trent D. Sanders" wrote in message om... We replaced all the through-hulls on my Islander 29 with new bronze through-hulls and bronze/stainless ball valves. The threads on the through-hulls were straight threads, while the threads on the ball valves were tapered [pipe] threads. As a consequence the ball valves only tightened down on the through-hulls by about 2 "turns". The yardman that did the job said that was the "accepted practice" and not to worry about it. But,,,, in this month's issue of Good Old Boat's newsletter supplement there's this,,, "You must use straight threads on both the valve and through-hull, or tapered on both. Mixing tapered and straight threads is the worst thing you can do, and sadly it is [or was] common". So, my question is,,,, does anyone know where to obtain bronze/stainless ball valves with straight threads? Easier to replace the ball valves rather than the through-hulls. I'd use proper seacocks but they require bolting to the hull which would be difficult with a fiberglass hull. Thanking you in advance, Trent Sanders S/V Cimba Marina Del Rey Southern California |
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#8
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Through-hull question
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#9
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Through-hull question
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#10
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Through-hull question
It is accepted practice to through-bolt seacocks even with a fiberglass
hull. there should be a backing plate wide enough to spread the load. -- Dennis Gibbons S/V Dark Lady CN35-207 email: dennis dash gibbons at worldnet dot att dot net "Trent D. Sanders" wrote in message om... We replaced all the through-hulls on my Islander 29 with new bronze through-hulls and bronze/stainless ball valves. The threads on the through-hulls were straight threads, while the threads on the ball valves were tapered [pipe] threads. As a consequence the ball valves only tightened down on the through-hulls by about 2 "turns". The yardman that did the job said that was the "accepted practice" and not to worry about it. But,,,, in this month's issue of Good Old Boat's newsletter supplement there's this,,, "You must use straight threads on both the valve and through-hull, or tapered on both. Mixing tapered and straight threads is the worst thing you can do, and sadly it is [or was] common". So, my question is,,,, does anyone know where to obtain bronze/stainless ball valves with straight threads? Easier to replace the ball valves rather than the through-hulls. I'd use proper seacocks but they require bolting to the hull which would be difficult with a fiberglass hull. Thanking you in advance, Trent Sanders S/V Cimba Marina Del Rey Southern California |
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