Can I marry my Icom 710 (159 wtt) to an SCG 237 (100 wtt)?
Thanks

In article ,
Gordon wrote:

Can I marry my Icom 710 (159 wtt) to an SCG 237 (100 wtt)?
Thanks

Sure, as long as you Do your Autotune at less than 25 Watts PEP,
and don't run any RTTY or other Continious Power Emmission at
greater than 75 Watts, and don't mind having SGC rebuild the
Relay Bank every time you flash over and pit the Relay Contacts.

Bruce in alaska
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add a 2 before @

Gordon wrote in news:13dds11egm3eme2
@corp.supernews.com:

Can I marry my Icom 710 (159 wtt) to an SCG 237 (100 wtt)?
Thanks



http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/1103

I suppose you could. Noone said you had to run the Icom wide open,
right? If you blow the 237, you'll be out several hundred dollars,
though....not good. The SGC 235 is rated for 500 watts, giving you a
little headroom for those frequencies where the whip or backstay has
especially high end impedance. The 235 will also be much more efficient
with larger inductors that have less internal resistance turning your RF
into heat.

It would work, but I don't, personally, recommend overpowering any
antenna tuner, who run on the ragged edge of self-destruction on lots of
frequencies.



Larry
--
How long will it be before the American Illuminati Government
turns its depleted uranium weapons on Americans?

Bruce in Alaska wrote in news:bruceg-
:

don't mind having SGC rebuild the
Relay Bank every time you flash over and pit the Relay Contacts.


Oh, I bet THAT's expensive!

Larry
--
How long will it be before the American Illuminati Government
turns its depleted uranium weapons on Americans?

"Larry" wrote in message
...
Bruce in Alaska wrote in news:bruceg-
:

don't mind having SGC rebuild the
Relay Bank every time you flash over and pit the Relay Contacts.


Oh, I bet THAT's expensive!

Larry
--
How long will it be before the American Illuminati Government
turns its depleted uranium weapons on Americans?


As soon as you step out of line , expose them or become a threat to them.

"Gordon" wrote
Can I marry my Icom 710 (159 wtt) to an SCG 237 (100 wtt)?

Maybe in Massachusetts, but I wouldn't count on it being functional
elsewhere.

Thanks

Don't mention it...

Larry wrote:


I suppose you could. Noone said you had to run the Icom wide open,
right?

Sure, as long as you're in full control
of the 710. Simply set it to 60 watts
(Power Setting #2) and you will be
running at only 60% of the 237's maximum
rating. It is not easy to accidentally
change the power level on the 710, so
once set, it "should be" OK.

A safer alternative would be to insert
an attenuator (ugh!!!) between the 710
and the 237. What a waste that would be,
but cheap at least. Not that bad on SSB
of course, especially in cooler weather.

Remember that reducing power from 150
watts to 60 watts results in a
just-noticeable, slight decrease in
signal strength of ~1.7dB. Probably less
than a 10kt wind would cause due to a
slight heeling of the vessel.

No question that you'd be better off
with an AT-130 or some other tuner rated
at the 710's full 150 watts.

Chuck

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Chuck wrote:


Remember that reducing power from 150 watts to 60 watts results in a
just-noticeable, slight decrease in signal strength of ~1.7dB. Probably
less than a 10kt wind would cause due to a slight heeling of the vessel.

Whoa! That 1.7dB is for a reduction of
150 watts to 100 watts.

The reduction from 150 watts to 60 watts
is just under 4dB, which is quite
noticeable, being just under one S-unit.

Under really weak propagation
conditions, that 4dB comes in handy.

Sorry for the confusion.

Chuck



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Chuck wrote in news:1188570780_12655
@sp12lax.superfeed.net:

Under really weak propagation
conditions, that 4dB comes in handy.


Under really weak propagation conditions, that 10db comes in handy....(c;
http://www.alpharadioproducts.com/9500.asp

POWER is our friend!

More seriously, many of you marine hams could sound a LOT better on the
Maritime Mobile Service Net (14.300) by using a TUNED antenna, instead of
the untuned flagpole and awfully-inefficient tuners which suck up lots of
your power and radiate poorly. A 1/4 wavelength "whip" on 14.3 Mhz is
only 16' 4" long and only requires a ground a tiny bit longer to radiate
like mad. I've been using a 1/4 wave vertical made from 1/2" copper pipe
soldered together for decades on 20M digital modes. Its ground plane is
the metal skin of my mobile home roof, but you could simply use a metal
handrail or radar arch like Skip has on the Pig. The bottom of the pipe
needs to be insulated from its mount and the center wire of the coax
cable is simply soldered to it where it comes out of its mount. The
feedpoint impedance is very low so there is little voltage but peak
current at the bottom feedpoint of any resonant 1/4 wave vertical.
Transistor power amps love that.

Once you are off the marine bands onto ham radio, your power limit is
1,500 watts. This also helps people to hear you, of course, the same as
it does Voice of America and the BBC. This webpage shows you some of the
amps available to boost your 100W rig to 500W:
http://www.k0bg.com/amplifiers.html
I've owned the Tentec Hercules II since it was new. His comments about
the crappy power connector doesn't go far enough. All the internal push-
on connectors with high current should be replaced with heavier wire and
hard soldered to the 4 amplifier boards and 1 control board. I'm using #
2 car stereo power cables to connect it to a big deep cycle 12V battery.
Instead of 80A and 400-500W, I can now draw 120A and get 650-700 watts
output to my beautifully-arcing 15' homebrew texas bugcatcher with huge
coils and 36" capacitor hat at 12' off the car's trailer hitch. People
will shout out their car windows at me, "Hey Mister! Your ANTENNA IS ON
FIRE!" The intense RF field it creates will stall most GM computer cars
and trucks who venture near it....(c;

A great 20M HF antenna with no tuner or power limit is simply a 16' 4"
length of #12-16 wire soldered to the center conductor of a piece of coax
to the transmitter. Put a big battery alligator clip on the shield of
the coax, as short as practical. Clamp the alligator to the middle of
the metal handrail or lifeline cable WITH ELECTRICAL CONTACT as far away
from metal rigging as you can get it. Haul the open end of the wire up a
halyard as far out on the yardarm as possible, as far away from the
rigging, again, as possible. Voila! 20 meters comes in like gangbusters
if the band is open and your signal goes up 10 db from the crappy
backstay/tuner arrangement. To operate 40 meters, double its wire length
to 32' 8" 80 meters is around 66' long so isn't practical on most
sailboats. It needs a center loading coil you can make from white PVC
drain pipe with end caps. Put the coil in between the top of the 20M
section and 40M add-on top section...in the center of the 40 length.
Experiment with an open coil to see how many turns of wire you need,
trimming as necessary, then seal the coil up by putting that pipe wrapped
with wire inside another larger pipe with end caps only penetrated by eye
bolts to make contact with the ends of the coil inside. That'll make it
last for years at sea. Tuned antenna simply work better and are worth
the effort.

Larry
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