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#31
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I seriously doubt that the early Newport 30's (or any of them) had cored
hulls, above the waterline or otherwise. --Alan Gomes "Rufus Laggren" wrote in message news:MOx3c.224694$uV3.946176@attbi_s51... Old boats usually cost you about 25-35% over initial cost within 2 to 3 years - one way or another. Nothing wrong with that. You "catch up" with a smaller boat lots quicker than with a larger one, and since you're still almost in the "small" category, you should be pretty much OK if you shop around and get a survey. I concur with those that have said it doesn't make much sense to worry about resale way down the road. If you're stuck on resale, some of the older, heavier, known boats like Pearsons 28's will probably hold value longer. And any boat that looks like a 17 year old prom queen when you sell it will hold its value. So it either doesn't matter, or it's up to you. Newports are light weight boats, sail well (I've raced on them). Leaks (from top down) can be a problem; the windows can _really_ leak (lived on one for 6 months). I believe the Newport 30 may be one of the early boats with the hull cored above the water and the decks cored. This makes the boat light, quiet, insulated and strong, but spells some potentially _bad_ problems if the core has got wet and rotted over a period of time. They had a steering wheel option, but IMHO, that's like putting a 6'console TV in a 10x12 room - not good. But this is all stuff a good surveyor will find out, so here's my standard surveyor plug: Spend lots of time talking to all the dock side detritus (owners, harbor personel, anybody that you see actually working on a boat) that will speak to you. Do this repeatedly at every dock and yacht club within 50 miles or so. You'll find some good boat deals, too. Try to find out what surveyor names come up again and again, and go talk with a couple of them. Some will do a "mini survey" to qualify a boat before going further. It's like lawyers and auto mechanics - they cost too much money and the good ones can save you 50 times that amount, easily; the bad ones are less than worthless. Do a search on "Pasco boat survey". He has a great website about surveying; must read. "Insurance surveys" usually aren't worth much. The better boat you can buy, the cheaper it will be in the long run. You try to buy the best you can while budgeting against the sure knowledge that it'll cost you significantly a short way down the road. Thus it _may_ make sense to reduce the grand plan down to a just good plan and get a 22 foot day sailor in excellent shape with just the basics. Such a boat will sell again easily within a year or two and it will make the whole operation less daunting. 80% return for 20% (well, 50%? G) the cost. For example, if you have a fleet of J24s racing near you and can find one somewhere that was only sailed by a grandmother, that's your boat. Generally speaking basics in hull, rig, engine, plumbing, and electrics (as opposed to electronics) will return value while fancy racing rigs, electronics, spotlights, stereos, refrigerators (they never work) don't hold money. Small amouonts of old wood can be finished pretty relatively easily, cushions cost a small fortune unless your wife sews (they may still cost _you_ g). Running rigging is easy to replace, if it's still all there; standing rigging is a project, no matter how you cut it. If an engine runs sort of OK (get an _engine_ survey) leave it alone - you're not crossing an ocean. If it doesn't, costs start at $1000 and end somewhere about $20k. Some boats (up to about 30') can take an outboard off the stern; you don't need much power, 15-20 hp is way plenty, 10hp will do fine, but you need a _longshaft_ motor geared for slow running. If you find an otherwise fine boat with a bad engine, this may be an option (depending on selling price). But ask the surveyor whether this type of boat works OK with an outboard. Besides the cost of the outboard, it will cost to install it - get quotes. You can pull the old engine yourself and get another "room" down there. The Pardeys put a hottub in their 30' boat under the companion step where the engine was not. You said you've sailed in the past, but it might be a good idea to pick up some rides as "rail meat" with the local racing boats and get your hand back in before you scare the living bejeesus out of your family. You can postpone the final big buy by bringing them along to look at select boats and otherwise getting them involved. Might get some good input, too. Save your bippy down the road when the wife wants to know why you didn't get one with an oven and air conditioning... Welcom back to boats. g Best luck. Rufus |
#32
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This guy doesn't know sheet about boats. Newports are awesome boats.
I own a 68 N30. It is rock solid. Catalina is a SheetBox. the keel is bolted on. no backing plates, under rigged, on and on . heres a guy who took his newport to hawaii and won overall on handicap! http://www.pacificcup.org/98/entries/Wate.html. I've owned a cal 27, catalina 27 and a newport 30 so far and I would take the newport anywhere I'd take the other ones. Oh, by the way, this cork smoker recommends Ranger as a boat. Gary Mull designed Ranger AND Newport boats http://www.google.COM/search?hl=en&i...l+newport+sail http://www.rocketboats.com/about/garymull.html Talk to anyone whos owned a newport 30, and you will hear the accolades. It may not be an S&S, but for the price, you can NOT beat it - and their fast as hell. Stay away from the bayliner. |
#33
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In ten years, It will be worth the same or more than you bought it for
only if you put 5 times that amount into it. Sailing is not an investment...It's a sickness. -Dick |
#36
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On 26 Jan 2005 16:03:32 -0800, "Frank" wrote:
I believe I said that the Newport line are nice-sailing boats, whether designed by C&C or Gary Mull, who happens to be one of my favorite designers. That's exactly why I recommended the Ranger to the OP, because it's a Mull design but with much (MUCH!) better construction quality than Newport. If you disagree with me about Newport construction, well, then, I leave the final decision up to each reader. I just finished crewing five years on a C&C built 1980s Newport 27. Picture a C&C 27, only one full ton lighter. A good club racer, but even a small square Lake Ontario wave would kill her speed. In five years, we scored two season first, a second and two thirds in our PHRF class, in which there was a C&C 27 Mk II, an S2, a Catalina 30, a couple of VIking 28s and some non-contenders. The Newport had the highest PHRF rating, so if we won, it was on corrected time. The Newport did, however, keep going in very light air, and that gave us line honours more than once in the dog days of summer. As to their construction: too damn light. Carrying the usual full hoist too long would set us on our beam ends, making a lot of lee. The skipper visibly fought the helm, but he was all about the manliness of it all, so whatever. Basically, the boat was killed by waves, but was a speedster in 12 knots. You could even surf downwind in 22 knots or better...you remember doing 10 knots in a 27 foot monohull keelboat. The cored deck was a problem the skipper solved by cutting a large rectangle out of the foredeck and replacing, reglassing and painting the patch. Looked gruesome, but got rid of the spongy feeling. Last comment: This boat really responds to a proper tuning job and is twitchy enough to benefit from a careful, attentive jib trimmer. Belowdecks, it's cheap and tight: only a midget can use the head without grunting. A good coasting boat/weekender, if you can deal with the cored deck issue. Can take a beating, but won't sail efficiently to wind due to cork-like buoyancy. R. |
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