Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from the internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing, side of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts? rick |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Not sure of your engine/heat exchanger configuration, but the hottest
cooling water would where it comes out of the engine and goes into the heat exchanger, then the return water would go into the heat exchanger, where you disconnected to divert the water. Let the engine cooling pump do the circulation through the hot water tank coil. That is the simplest since there won't be much flow until the engine thermosat opens up. If you circulate the water from the wrong point, you will warm the cooling water with the already hot water in the tank. You might check with your engine dealer or manufacturer.. They may have already addressed this question and can speak with some authority that you could fall back on if something goes wrong. It would be adviseable to have the water heater/storage tank higher than the engine. This will keep you hot water heat from escaping back to the engine block by thermal convection. I puzzled over this question recently because I want to have a way for the generator to heat the water as well. The valve complications cause me to consider adding another heating coil in the water heater tank.. Simpler and but not cheaper. One possibility I have is to remove the electric element and put the second coil in that hole. Right now I just want to see how well the engine does at heating the water.. My Volvo still has the OEM 140 deg thermotat installed. (Volvo says leave it even if I switch to fresh water cooling because all the clearance/tolerances, etc are for SW cooling at 140 deg.) Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
My Volvo still has the OEM 140 deg
thermotat installed. (Volvo says leave it even if I switch to fresh water cooling because all the clearance/tolerances, etc are for SW cooling at 140 deg.) on some Volvo raw cooled engines the factory specifically recommends against using cooling water to heat hot water for showers, as this can crack cylinder heads. Not sure of the dynamics as I do not have a Volvo, but certainly the man who told me such is one fine mechanic. |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
My water heater, as I assume most do, has a 'one way valve' on the intake.
SV "Steve" wrote in message ... It would be adviseable to have the water heater/storage tank higher than the engine. This will keep you hot water heat from escaping back to the engine block by thermal convection. |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f.
One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:27:45 -0400, none wrote: I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from the internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing, side of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts? rick |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
If you put an inline tee fitting with a cap, you can fill the hoses
with anti freeze and bleed them much more easily. On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 11:22:09 -0400, none wrote: thanks a lot Marc. Out thru the T-stat housing (which i see) return thru the water pump low press side...which i will locate. My manual doesn't appear to have that info. Rick . On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:29:16 GMT, Marc wrote: I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f. One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. snip... |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
thanks a lot Marc.
Out thru the T-stat housing (which i see) return thru the water pump low press side...which i will locate. My manual doesn't appear to have that info. Rick .. On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:29:16 GMT, Marc wrote: I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f. One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. snip... |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is a
different breed of cat. I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f. One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:27:45 -0400, none wrote: I have an 18HP yanmar 2cyl and would like to put in an aux heater from the internal cooling system (glycol). There are many plugs, thermhousing, side of block etc... so i am unsure where to tie in for a send return that won't affect the cooling of the motor. any thoughts? rick |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "JAXAshby" wrote in message ... note that a 2GM20f is **freshwater** cooled. a raw water cooled engine is a different breed of cat. Most common marine water heaters are equipt with a copper or brass engine water coil.. Therefore raw water shouldn't be circulated through it.. If a person wants to us raw water to heat domestic water, this coil should be replace with something in CuNi. However, most raw water cooled engine have a low temp thermosat and the water temp may never get over 150 degree. Not very much of a rise for stored hot water. A 6 gal tank wouldn't provide more than a couple showers. (the main reason I want hot water). Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#10
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Also a good idea to put a bypass on the heater lines, that way you
don't have to fill (6gals) the heater with pink stuff. Or at least make the lines long enough and accesible. Mine is a PITA to get to. And don't forget to drain the heater for winter. Scott Marc wrote in message . .. If you put an inline tee fitting with a cap, you can fill the hoses with anti freeze and bleed them much more easily. On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 11:22:09 -0400, none wrote: thanks a lot Marc. Out thru the T-stat housing (which i see) return thru the water pump low press side...which i will locate. My manual doesn't appear to have that info. Rick . On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:29:16 GMT, Marc wrote: I am referencing the Official Yanmar Service Manual for the 2gm20f. One connection is a plug on the fresh water pump on the hose side that leads from the heat exchanger. The other is a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that leads to the heat exchanger. They are both 3/8" npt fittings. snip... |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Problem water pump Yanmar 2GM *Redux* | Cruising | |||
Yanmar 3GM raw water cooled? | Cruising | |||
Where to find ramp stories? | General | |||
Hot Water Dispenser | Cruising |