Okay, let me try this again. Sometimes the hardest thing about getting
the right answer is knowing enough to ask the right question! Thanks to
those who answered previously. I now know a little about jib
nomenclature. But there was nothing about storm jibs I could find. Is it
just an any old tough little sail? Would a foot 90% to the mast qualify
as a storm jib? What is the general theory for a good storm jib?
Anything smaller than 100% made out of tough material?

Stephen

"Stephen Trapani" wrote in message
...
Okay, let me try this again. Sometimes the hardest thing about getting
the right answer is knowing enough to ask the right question! Thanks to
those who answered previously. I now know a little about jib
nomenclature. But there was nothing about storm jibs I could find. Is it
just an any old tough little sail? Would a foot 90% to the mast qualify
as a storm jib? What is the general theory for a good storm jib?
Anything smaller than 100% made out of tough material?

Stephen

That's the way I understand it. Made from a heavier material and smaller.
Usually the seller will quote fabric weight.

Storm jib will usually be in the neighborthood of 50% luff length & 60%
LP. Cloth weight will be 10-20%+ heavier than mainsail

Short luff is to reduce heeling.

A variation is the 'blade' that uses a larger luff dimension and even
shorter LP.... for upwind ability. A dentist is usually supplied to
replace your dental fillings every few minutes.


In article , Stephen Trapani
wrote:

Okay, let me try this again. Sometimes the hardest thing about getting
the right answer is knowing enough to ask the right question! Thanks to
those who answered previously. I now know a little about jib
nomenclature. But there was nothing about storm jibs I could find. Is it
just an any old tough little sail? Would a foot 90% to the mast qualify
as a storm jib? What is the general theory for a good storm jib?
Anything smaller than 100% made out of tough material?

Stephen

Under "Offshore and Coastal Racing Rules 1993" Cats 1,2,3 (slightly
abridged)

"One Storm Jib of not larger than 5% of the square of the luff of the
largest headsail in area, the luff of which does not exceed 65% of the luff
of the largest headsail and of suitable strength for the purpose. Aromatic
polyamides, carbon fibres and other high modulus fibres shall not be used."

Jofra

On Fri, 07 May 2004 13:02:44 -0700, Stephen Trapani
wrote:

Okay, let me try this again. Sometimes the hardest thing about getting
the right answer is knowing enough to ask the right question! Thanks to
those who answered previously. I now know a little about jib
nomenclature. But there was nothing about storm jibs I could find. Is it
just an any old tough little sail? Would a foot 90% to the mast qualify
as a storm jib?

No, that could qualify as a No. 3 or a 4., maybe. No. 3s can be deck
sweepers that fill the fore triangle, or can be cut a little short on
the luff and hoisted with a pendant to the tack to catch more air
higher. I do this when single handing in 15-25 knots, as No. 3s
self-tack and I don't mind being slightly underpowered in that sort of
wind (I have a typical IOR '70s cruiser-racer).

What is the general theory for a good storm jib?
Anything smaller than 100% made out of tough material?

No. Seriously, use "storm jib" and "trysail" on Google and educate
yourself, because you could one day make a fatal mistake not knowing
the difference.

A storm jib is a heavy, triple or quadruple-stitched, reinforced sail
with extra-tough grommets. It is usually hanked on the forestay, but
roller furlers, if they can't strip off the furling sail, can use
something called a "Gale Sail".

A storm jib for a 35 foot boat is the size of an Star boat jib, or
smaller, and several times the thickness. It is a sail of last resort,
used to maintain way on in a heavy sea, or occasionally to provide a
bit of lateral resistance when motoring in same (lashed to the
centerline). A storm jib is frequently lashed to deck in anticipation
of its use in deteriorating conditions. It will commonly have heavy
dedicated sheets because of the enormous forces involved. Don't use
shackes, in 50 knots they will take your head off.

A storm jib or better yet, a storm staysail, gives you a bit of
control and propulsion when the atternative is running under bare
poles. It requires practice to use effectively (learn to use it in 35
knots so that you know what to do in 50), but it's a great sail. It's
frequently the "newest" sail on board because very, very few
recreational or coastal sailors are ever out in weather that storm
jibs are meant to serve. Funnily enough, however, they make excellent
"riding sails" while at anchor.

Check out "Heavy Weather Sailing" by Adlard Coles for further info.

Hope this helps. Storm jibs in real life featured in the Sydney Hobart
and Fastnet races...of which you may have heard.

R.

Check out Sail magazine for this month (maybe last month by now). There
is an article on storm sails.

Stephen Trapani wrote:
Okay, let me try this again. Sometimes the hardest thing about getting
the right answer is knowing enough to ask the right question! Thanks to
those who answered previously. I now know a little about jib
nomenclature. But there was nothing about storm jibs I could find. Is it
just an any old tough little sail? Would a foot 90% to the mast qualify
as a storm jib? What is the general theory for a good storm jib?
Anything smaller than 100% made out of tough material?

Stephen


--
-----
news_bucket e-mail address goes to a blackhole. Sorry. Send e-mail to
"respond" at the same domain.

On Fri, 07 May 2004 13:02:44 -0700, Stephen Trapani
wrote:

Okay, let me try this again. Sometimes the hardest thing about getting
the right answer is knowing enough to ask the right question! Thanks to
those who answered previously. I now know a little about jib
nomenclature. But there was nothing about storm jibs I could find. Is it
just an any old tough little sail? Would a foot 90% to the mast qualify
as a storm jib? What is the general theory for a good storm jib?
Anything smaller than 100% made out of tough material?

Stephen

Stephen,

What the other posters have written is correct. Smaller, heavier
fabric, more reinforcement around the grommets, more hanks for
attaching to the forestay. Another characteristic is less draft.
That is, less belly or curve in the sail. Draft is what gives a sail
its power. Even a small sail with a lot of draft can create
considerable power. By flatting the sail it is depowered.

If you choose not to purchase a storm jib, or until you do, you can
take measures to depower your regular jib and make it safely usable in
higher wind. This also works for a genoa when you do not want to
switch down to a smaller sail for one reason or another (e.g., on a
race course when you will shortly be on a course where the larger sail
would be beneficial). To depower a headsail move the sheet fairlead
aft. When you tighten the sheet it will then pull the foot of the jib
very tight while the leach will open up. This takes some of the draft
out of the sail and also lets the excessive wind flow out of the leach
of the sail. Try it sometime in modest conditions to see how it
works. The reverse also works, to power up a sail move the sheet
fairlead forward. This loosens up the foot and tightens up the leach.
The sail will be much fuller, rounder, with lots of draft.

On a mainsail you depower by tightening the outhaul which tightens the
foot and takes much of the draft out of the sail. Then you can
tighten the halyard some, but there is a better way to stretch the
luff. That is to rig a cunningham. Your main should have a
reinforced grommet about a foot or two above the tack (corner where
the sail attaches to the gooseneck). This grommet is below the
grommet for the first reefing point. Run a line from an eye or cleat
on the mast below the boom, up through the cunningham grommet and back
to the cleat. Tighten this line. It will stretch the luff. This
does two good things. One, it takes some of the draft out of the
main. Secondly, and very importantly, it moves the remaining draft
forward. As the wind increases the draft in a mainsail tends to move
aft. This makes the boat heel more among other bad things. The
cummingham corrects this problem and lets the remaining draft move the
boat forward instead of rolling it over.

Hope this is helpful to you.

Lee Huddleston
s/v Truelove
lying Sea Gate Marina
Beaufort, NC

Lee Huddleston wrote:


Hope this is helpful to you.

Lee Huddleston
s/v Truelove
lying Sea Gate Marina
Beaufort, NC


Hey, massively helpful, to you and the rest who answered. Thanks so much!

The bad news is, my boat is hauled out this week and I'll probably have
a huge mess more questions this week so I can get it back in the water
next weekend! Don't let me wear you guys out! ;-)

Stephen

Don't let me wear you guys out! ;-)

Stephen

Most of the people on this news group are closet teachers. The more
you ask, the more we like it. Of course, we don't mind throwing in
some BS from time to time either. :-)

Lee Huddleston