Thanks greg. My Alternator is 55amp, I believe the will be sufficent as you
mentioned 'peak power' so the amp (kicker 700.5) should be able to charge
while running

Well the switch i'm using is the standar PERKO 1-2-Both-Off switch. So the
4 gauge 12V+ from the amp will go to that instead of the 12V+ on the
battery. Or since the 12v power lead shuts the amp off entirely then maybe
if i wire it straight to the battery it will shut down completely, i just
wanted to make sure that is the case, cause if there is a chance by wiring
it straight to the battery it will still draw power then i can't do it.

Only prob. with posting in the car audio forum is that i have added
electronics w/ the boat and most people really don't address my specific
concerns.


"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article , "Matt"
wrote:
The AMP requires a 90A fuse.

I plan on wiring the 12V+ From the AMP (4 gauge) to the COMMON on the
switch. I have a 1' 4 gauge power cable with a 90A fues built in.


Switches are not normally used, but there is a small drain on the battery,
sometimes enough to be bad if the battery sits for weeks.

You also mention switch, then also talk about being switched from control.
if you need more clarity you could read the car audio FAQ, or even ask
questions
to rec.audio.car


greg

From what I have been reading that is the way to do it, rather than 12V+
from AMP straight to battery Positive.

Sound good?

"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article , Larry
wrote:
"Matt" wrote in
:

I'm adding an AMP to my stereo system, should the POWER/12V wire go to
the SWITCH or should it go directly to the Battery positive?



How big are its fuses? Twin 30A fuses = 60A tops....pretty much
answering
your own question...OUCH! BIG WIRE straight to the battery.

The amps are all switched on by a very low current control wire you put
+
12V to when you want to turn the amps on. Shut down the control
voltage,
and the amps shut themselves off.

No, you can't charge the battery at all drawing 50A from some huge
stereo
off an outboard motor's 15A charging circuit.....

Thats only for peak power. Normal power is much less.
A fuse MUST be installed close to the battery regardless.


greg

In article , "Matt" wrote:
Thanks greg. My Alternator is 55amp, I believe the will be sufficent as you
mentioned 'peak power' so the amp (kicker 700.5) should be able to charge
while running

Well the switch i'm using is the standar PERKO 1-2-Both-Off switch. So the
4 gauge 12V+ from the amp will go to that instead of the 12V+ on the
battery. Or since the 12v power lead shuts the amp off entirely then maybe
if i wire it straight to the battery it will shut down completely, i just
wanted to make sure that is the case, cause if there is a chance by wiring
it straight to the battery it will still draw power then i can't do it.

Only prob. with posting in the car audio forum is that i have added
electronics w/ the boat and most people really don't address my specific
concerns.

USENET is not a forum as such.
The only thing different in boats is the ground.
Just talk about wiring, not WHERE.
One trouble with cars, the alternator does not always
get into the max amp range until you get over 2K RPM. In boats
one tends to get much higher than that just to plane. So boats have
a powering advantage.

On my old car I had an amp that drew about .05 amp with
control power off. it would drain the battery after sitting a month.
I thought about installing a switch or relay but never did.

greg


"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article , "Matt"
wrote:
The AMP requires a 90A fuse.

I plan on wiring the 12V+ From the AMP (4 gauge) to the COMMON on the
switch. I have a 1' 4 gauge power cable with a 90A fues built in.


Switches are not normally used, but there is a small drain on the battery,
sometimes enough to be bad if the battery sits for weeks.

You also mention switch, then also talk about being switched from control.
if you need more clarity you could read the car audio FAQ, or even ask
questions
to rec.audio.car


greg

From what I have been reading that is the way to do it, rather than 12V+
from AMP straight to battery Positive.

Sound good?

"GregS" wrote in message
.. .
In article , Larry
wrote:
"Matt" wrote in
:

I'm adding an AMP to my stereo system, should the POWER/12V wire go to
the SWITCH or should it go directly to the Battery positive?



How big are its fuses? Twin 30A fuses = 60A tops....pretty much
answering
your own question...OUCH! BIG WIRE straight to the battery.

The amps are all switched on by a very low current control wire you put
+
12V to when you want to turn the amps on. Shut down the control
voltage,
and the amps shut themselves off.

No, you can't charge the battery at all drawing 50A from some huge
stereo
off an outboard motor's 15A charging circuit.....

Thats only for peak power. Normal power is much less.
A fuse MUST be installed close to the battery regardless.


greg

On Mon, 18 May 2009 09:21:20 -0400, "Matt"
wrote:

Thanks greg. My Alternator is 55amp, I believe the will be sufficent as you
mentioned 'peak power' so the amp (kicker 700.5) should be able to charge
while running

Well the switch i'm using is the standar PERKO 1-2-Both-Off switch. So the
4 gauge 12V+ from the amp will go to that instead of the 12V+ on the
battery. Or since the 12v power lead shuts the amp off entirely then maybe
if i wire it straight to the battery it will shut down completely, i just
wanted to make sure that is the case, cause if there is a chance by wiring
it straight to the battery it will still draw power then i can't do it.

You should connect the amp's power cable to the load side of the Perko
battery switch. The only thing connected directly to the boat's
battery + terminal should be the input terminal of the Perko switch
(and possibly a bilge pump).


--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca