I use Wire-Duct. It comes with an adhesive back but you can attach it with
screws
if you wish.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Sir Spamalot" wrote in message
...
This is the third installment of a (hopefully) short series of
re-wiring questions g.

I'm running a bundle of wires from the transom to the cockpit, along
the side of the hull up under the gunwhales. It's an old boat, and
there is no wireway, PVC, or other convenient means to keep the bundle
from moving around.

Since the sides of the hull are single-layer fiberglass, I was
thinking of using those stick-on cable tie mounts to fix the cabling
up under the gunwhale, but I don't think they are legal to use. I
think the current standards call for "real" stainless clamps with the
rubber chafe covering, like the ones Ancor makes. But, obviously, I
don't want to drill holes in the sides of the boat to mount the
stainless clamps with nut and bolt.

Any ideas that won't get me into dutch if the CG takes a look? How do
other manufacturers' do it?

TIA,
SS

Sir Spamalot wrote:
This is the third installment of a (hopefully) short series of
re-wiring questions g.

I'm running a bundle of wires from the transom to the cockpit, along
the side of the hull up under the gunwhales. It's an old boat, and
there is no wireway, PVC, or other convenient means to keep the bundle
from moving around.

Since the sides of the hull are single-layer fiberglass, I was
thinking of using those stick-on cable tie mounts to fix the cabling
up under the gunwhale, but I don't think they are legal to use. I
think the current standards call for "real" stainless clamps with the
rubber chafe covering, like the ones Ancor makes. But, obviously, I
don't want to drill holes in the sides of the boat to mount the
stainless clamps with nut and bolt.

Any ideas that won't get me into dutch if the CG takes a look? How do
other manufacturers' do it?

TIA,
SS
If you have room, run a plastic tube the full length of the boat, and leave
enough room in the tube diameter to pull further wires through at some later
date. Fasten the tube in place with clips or epoxy to the inside of the
hull. We used toilet outlet tubing, but chandlers carry all sorts of tubing.
Once it it in place, it's easy to feed extra wires through when needed.
--
Remove "nospam" from return address.

On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:03:04 +0100, Dennis Pogson wrote:

Sir Spamalot wrote:
This is the third installment of a (hopefully) short series of
re-wiring questions g.

I'm running a bundle of wires from the transom to the cockpit, along
the side of the hull up under the gunwhales. It's an old boat, and
there is no wireway, PVC, or other convenient means to keep the bundle
from moving around.

Since the sides of the hull are single-layer fiberglass, I was
thinking of using those stick-on cable tie mounts to fix the cabling
up under the gunwhale, but I don't think they are legal to use. I
think the current standards call for "real" stainless clamps with the
rubber chafe covering, like the ones Ancor makes. But, obviously, I
don't want to drill holes in the sides of the boat to mount the
stainless clamps with nut and bolt.

Any ideas that won't get me into dutch if the CG takes a look? How do
other manufacturers' do it?

TIA,
SS
If you have room, run a plastic tube the full length of the boat, and leave
enough room in the tube diameter to pull further wires through at some later
date. Fasten the tube in place with clips or epoxy to the inside of the
hull. We used toilet outlet tubing, but chandlers carry all sorts of tubing.
Once it it in place, it's easy to feed extra wires through when needed.

There is a flexible, split plastic tube made precisely for this purpose,
called "wire loom". You can bundle the cables in there and then fasten the
tube to the sides using whatever is handy. It is available at both auto
parts stores or marine stores. Guess which place is cheaper!
--

Larry
email is rapp at lmr dot com

I've tried the stick on mounts, I don't see any way they can be
regarded as a permanent solution. You might consider securing the
Ancor clamps with epoxy.

the self adhesive cable mounts won't stay in place or under any weight.

I us a plastic mount, intended to us a screw, but on the hull I use 5200
after cleaning a spot of loose paint or wax. Epoxy would work even better
but I have never felt the need.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"Larry" wrote in message

On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:03:04 +0100, Dennis Pogson wrote:

Sir Spamalot wrote:
This is the third installment of a (hopefully) short series of
re-wiring questions g.

I'm running a bundle of wires from the transom to the cockpit, along
the side of the hull up under the gunwhales. It's an old boat, and
there is no wireway, PVC, or other convenient means to keep the
bundle from moving around.

Since the sides of the hull are single-layer fiberglass, I was
thinking of using those stick-on cable tie mounts to fix the cabling
up under the gunwhale, but I don't think they are legal to use. I
think the current standards call for "real" stainless clamps with
the rubber chafe covering, like the ones Ancor makes. But,
obviously, I don't want to drill holes in the sides of the boat to
mount the stainless clamps with nut and bolt.

Any ideas that won't get me into dutch if the CG takes a look? How
do other manufacturers' do it?

TIA,
SS
If you have room, run a plastic tube the full length of the boat,
and leave enough room in the tube diameter to pull further wires
through at some later date. Fasten the tube in place with clips or
epoxy to the inside of the hull. We used toilet outlet tubing, but
chandlers carry all sorts of tubing. Once it it in place, it's easy
to feed extra wires through when needed.

There is a flexible, split plastic tube made precisely for this
purpose, called "wire loom". You can bundle the cables in there and
then fasten the tube to the sides using whatever is handy. It is
available at both auto parts stores or marine stores. Guess which
place is cheaper!

They also sell it (the flexible split plastic wire tubes) at home
improvement stores like lowes or home depot, it's way cheaper than auto and
marine stores. It's basically for running conduits in moving vehicles (RV's,
cars, boats, planes), while you can stick it/glue it to the sides, make sure
you use a flexible glue (not epoxy) that can take the constant vibration
while the vehicle is under way. Butyl rubber (that black stuff used around
windows) is good for that, stays flexible and is waterproof.