Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
flinttool
 
Posts: n/a
Default outboard cut off switch ??

Hi I have got an out board motor (seagull forty plus, if that makes a
difference) that works fine but annoyingly has no electric cut off
switch. This means that to shut it off or stop it you have to turn
down the throttle to the idle position and either starve the carb of
air by placing your had over the air intake or turning the fuel tap
off and waiting for it to run out of petrol. This may not seem to much
trouble but you the have to go back through the priming procedure each
time you want to start it again, and as this has to be done by leaning
out over the back of the engine and boat is awkward to say the least.
The trouble is you cant leave it ticking over at low rev's as the
impeller doesn't throw the water around at the slow idle speed you
need the forward motion to help the circulation.

What I would like to do is split the ignition lead (or jion two
leads) and put in a cut off switch? That way the engine will stop
instantly and should start first pull when needed again.

Will this affect the engine in any way, as the coil is £120 to
replace that's if you can get one.
  #2   Report Post  
Terry King
 
Posts: n/a
Default outboard cut off switch ??

Hi I have got an out board motor (seagull forty plus, if that makes a
difference) that works fine but annoyingly has no electric cut off
switch.

Does this have mechanical 'points' or some electronic ignition module?

You should be able to easily short a low-voltage control point (shorting
across points is typically done), for a Kill switch. If you make it a
momentary switch like many lawn mowers, you won't have to remember to
turn it on again.

--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont

Capturing Live Music in Sound and Images
http://www.terryking.us
  #3   Report Post  
Dave
 
Posts: n/a
Default outboard cut off switch ??

Hi

You should not need to cover the intake to stop the engine, by closing the
throttle completely should stop the engine.

I have a number of these engines and they all stop this way, to restart
again you should not have to prime the unless the engine is cold.

I think you will find the needle is not closing the jet, it's just a matter
of adjusting the throttle cable at the carb end to make sure it shuts fully.

Running on tick-over there should also be sufficient water passing through
the engine as it does not require forward movement to help push the cooling
water around. If you are not getting water out on tick-over I would suggest
that the waterways are partially blocked, not uncommon especially if used in
salt water and not flushed out each time. To clear this, will require the
removal of the cylinder head and using a small drill, drill out the hard
deposits in the waterways. Don't forget the water outlet hole as well.

To fit a kill switch will require you to drill a hole in the flywheel base
plate, connect a wire on the coil side of contact breaker the other end of
the switch to the engine chassis (earth). Switching the switch off will stop
any spark thus stopping the engine.
In my opinion this will be more problems to go wrong when you need the
engine to start.

Regards
Dave



"flinttool" wrote in message
om...
Hi I have got an out board motor (seagull forty plus, if that makes a
difference) that works fine but annoyingly has no electric cut off
switch. This means that to shut it off or stop it you have to turn
down the throttle to the idle position and either starve the carb of
air by placing your had over the air intake or turning the fuel tap
off and waiting for it to run out of petrol. This may not seem to much
trouble but you the have to go back through the priming procedure each
time you want to start it again, and as this has to be done by leaning
out over the back of the engine and boat is awkward to say the least.
The trouble is you cant leave it ticking over at low rev's as the
impeller doesn't throw the water around at the slow idle speed you
need the forward motion to help the circulation.

What I would like to do is split the ignition lead (or jion two
leads) and put in a cut off switch? That way the engine will stop
instantly and should start first pull when needed again.

Will this affect the engine in any way, as the coil is £120 to
replace that's if you can get one.



  #4   Report Post  
Ian Malcolm
 
Posts: n/a
Default outboard cut off switch ??

"flinttool" wrote:

Hi I have got an out board motor (seagull forty plus, if that makes a
difference) that works fine but annoyingly has no electric cut off
switch. This means that to shut it off or stop it you have to turn
down the throttle to the idle position and either starve the carb of
air by placing your had over the air intake or turning the fuel tap
off and waiting for it to run out of petrol. This may not seem to much
trouble but you the have to go back through the priming procedure each
time you want to start it again, and as this has to be done by leaning
out over the back of the engine and boat is awkward to say the least.
The trouble is you cant leave it ticking over at low rev's as the
impeller doesn't throw the water around at the slow idle speed you
need the forward motion to help the circulation.

What I would like to do is split the ignition lead (or jion two
leads) and put in a cut off switch? That way the engine will stop
instantly and should start first pull when needed again.

Will this affect the engine in any way, as the coil is £120 to
replace that's if you can get one.


Dave wrote:
Hi

You should not need to cover the intake to stop the engine, by closing the
throttle completely should stop the engine.

I have a number of these engines and they all stop this way, to restart
again you should not have to prime the unless the engine is cold.

I think you will find the needle is not closing the jet, it's just a matter
of adjusting the throttle cable at the carb end to make sure it shuts fully.

Running on tick-over there should also be sufficient water passing through
the engine as it does not require forward movement to help push the cooling
water around. If you are not getting water out on tick-over I would suggest
that the waterways are partially blocked, not uncommon especially if used in
salt water and not flushed out each time. To clear this, will require the
removal of the cylinder head and using a small drill, drill out the hard
deposits in the waterways. Don't forget the water outlet hole as well.

To fit a kill switch will require you to drill a hole in the flywheel base
plate, connect a wire on the coil side of contact breaker the other end of
the switch to the engine chassis (earth). Switching the switch off will stop
any spark thus stopping the engine.
In my opinion this will be more problems to go wrong when you need the
engine to start.


ISTRM two small drain holes in the magneto baseplate. You could bring
the added wire from the points out through one of them. (assuming Wipac
(mk2) magneto assy (copper/gold flywheel). If its the Mk1 one (silver
flywheel you may well have to drill the baseplate. If its the Mk3
electronic ignition, (blue I think, or recoil start.) *FORGET IT*, or
you *will* probably be looking for a new coil assy.

The wire and whatever switch you use will need to be insulated for ~200V
or so. There is quite a bit of back EMF accross those points.
IMHO its more trouble than its worth *UNLESS* you *HAVE* to fit a
killcord, in which case, you could probably manage to fit an OMC
killcord switch direct to the magneto baseplate.

Flinttool, have you discovered the *quick* way to shut off a seagull yet?

While reaching right around the back of the engine from the starboard
side of the boat to shut off the fuel, grab the thumbscrew on the plug
cap instead of the petrol tap by mistake. You will ground out the spark
quite nicely and the engine will stop. Trouble is you will twitch a
bit. In fact you are likely to flap about like a freshly landed fish!
Don't ask me how I know . . . :-)

You are quite correct that insufficient water is pumped at dead slow
idle to cool the engine. After 2 - 3 mins of dead slow I always give my
Forty Plus a brief burst of full throttle to cool it off. Always check
there is enough water flow if you are idling for more than two minutes.
(Warning for anyone else, Century & model 100 seagulls tend to crack
the block if overheated, I wouldnt run one of them for more than a
minute without water flow) You should adjust the throttle cable adjuster
so the throttle just closes completely with the tiller tilted down about
30 or 45 degs as the curvature of the cable influences the speed
considerably at slow idle. If you lift the tiller it slows down a touch
and speeds up if you lower it. After this adjustment, you should be
able to kill the engine by fully closing the throttle. I just wish
someone made an aftermarket throttle lever assy. with a detent at the
slow idle position so I could quickly go to dead slow without going too
far and stopping the engine.
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- &
[dot]=.
*Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must.
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Uffa Fox designed, All varnished hot
moulded wooden racing dinghy circa. 1961

  #5   Report Post  
flinttool
 
Posts: n/a
Default outboard cut off switch ??

Hi and thanks for the info. It looks like a simple ignition lead
switch isn't possible, or rather its risky and drilling holes is more
than I bargained for, so will stick with it as it is. Glad to see that
there was a difference of opinion about the idle water flow, I have
had over ten seagulls in the past and none have ever pushed water when
idling.

Will try to adjust the throttle cable to get it to cut out, although
one again always thought that they didn't cut out completely just went
as far as slow idle but will twiddle a bit and see what happens

ON A DIFFERANT NOTE ONLY USED THIS EMAIL TO JOIN THE NEWS GROUP
YESTERDAY AND GOT A VIRUS THIS MORNING, A WORM ATTATCHMENT SO BE
VIJILANT. DONT KNOW IF LINKED TO GROUP OR GOOGLE AS WHOLE BUT REMEMBER
DON'T OPEN ATTATCH MENTS WITHOUT VIRUS CHECKING FIRST.

Thanks for the replies neil.


  #6   Report Post  
____m___~ΏΤ___m____
 
Posts: n/a
Default spam / outboard cut off switch ??

flinttool wrote:

ON A DIFFERANT NOTE ONLY USED THIS EMAIL TO JOIN THE NEWS GROUP
YESTERDAY AND GOT A VIRUS THIS MORNING, A WORM ATTATCHMENT SO BE
VIJILANT. DONT KNOW IF LINKED TO GROUP OR GOOGLE AS WHOLE BUT REMEMBER
DON'T OPEN ATTATCH MENTS WITHOUT VIRUS CHECKING FIRST.

Thanks for the replies neil.


Read this site, then mung email address in newsgroups.
You will get a lot of spam, for some time to follow, now that it has been
harvested by spammers along with suspect files that shouldn't be opened.
Don't reply to any spam or ask to be removed from mailing list, because this
just verifies the address is good and will be passed to other spammers.

http://members.aol.com/emailfaq/mungfaq.html
--
__________m___~ΏΤ___m____________________________
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
78 Merc 200: How to wire mercury kill switch?? John Davison General 4 June 18th 04 01:39 AM
dead outboard? Evan Gatehouse Cruising 11 June 16th 04 08:34 PM
Bilge pump switch - again L. M. Rappaport Cruising 3 October 30th 03 09:12 PM
Converting I/O to Outboard with Jack Plate Mile Sullivan General 5 September 19th 03 03:59 AM
alternator charging to high? Richard Malcolm Electronics 8 August 20th 03 11:57 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:54 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2025 BoatBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Boats"

 

Copyright © 2017