Just installed a new depth/speed system using the Raymarine ST60.

I think there was a note somewhere (can't find it) about separate
starting and house batteries because the Raymarine doesn't like
voltage dips! I just ignored that. No way I'm doing that on a 30
foot sailboat with a Yanmar 2GM that starts on no voltage at all.

Well - if I start when the battery is low - the Raymarine resets,
loosing all calibration. This includes the sea temp calibration which
is NOT set as an offset, but is set by measuring the actual temp and
then setting the display to that value! So you can't even write down
that calibration and reenter it.

For no, I have to remember to have the Raymarine off when I start
with low batteries!

I'm considering some sort of circuit using batteries or
ultracapacitors so buffer the supply voltage.

Comments? Any one tried it?

Have the same ST60 system. I added a 3000uf, 60VDC power supply
filter cap to the positive
side close to the instruments, never had a problem. Also make sure
you've installed the ferrite
filters on the lines from the depth transducer and also the power
supply.

In article , Sailor wrote:
Have the same ST60 system. I added a 3000uf, 60VDC power supply
filter cap to the positive
side close to the instruments, never had a problem. Also make sure
you've installed the ferrite
filters on the lines from the depth transducer and also the power
supply.

If it works fine. I was going to suggest also a diode, but thats going to drop things .5 volt
or so. 3000 uF is wimpy but small in physical size but larger uF could be a problem with on switches.

greg

Marc Auslander wrote:
Just installed a new depth/speed system using the Raymarine ST60.

I think there was a note somewhere (can't find it) about separate
starting and house batteries because the Raymarine doesn't like
voltage dips! I just ignored that. No way I'm doing that on a 30
foot sailboat with a Yanmar 2GM that starts on no voltage at all.

Well - if I start when the battery is low - the Raymarine resets,
loosing all calibration. This includes the sea temp calibration which
is NOT set as an offset, but is set by measuring the actual temp and
then setting the display to that value! So you can't even write down
that calibration and reenter it.

For no, I have to remember to have the Raymarine off when I start
with low batteries!

I'm considering some sort of circuit using batteries or
ultracapacitors so buffer the supply voltage.

Comments? Any one tried it?
I have used a small (~12AH) battery, connected to the main battery
with a Scottky diode(80 amp), or a break relay.
The break relay was connected to the radio power, which is
switched off while starting, and so can feed the relay coil.
Your starting switch might have such a contact.
That way, starting the engine, or using an electric winch, does
not mess up your power.

I agree Greg with the diode. Without it, the cap is feeding the starter motor and the rest of the boat, not just ST60. The .5 V
drop won't make a difference.
Steve

"GregS" wrote in message ...
In article , Sailor wrote:
Have the same ST60 system. I added a 3000uf, 60VDC power supply
filter cap to the positive
side close to the instruments, never had a problem. Also make sure
you've installed the ferrite
filters on the lines from the depth transducer and also the power
supply.

If it works fine. I was going to suggest also a diode, but thats going to drop things .5 volt
or so. 3000 uF is wimpy but small in physical size but larger uF could be a problem with on switches.

greg

I have used a small (~12AH) battery, connected to the main battery
with a Scottky diode(80 amp), or a break relay.
The break relay was connected to the radio power, which is
switched off while starting, and so can feed the relay coil.
THis would be my suggestion. Solve all the problems really.

Your starting switch might have such a contact.
That way, starting the engine, or using an electric winch, does
not mess up your power.

I would suggest the op go with this option. IN fact, I
strongly suggest it.

Regards,




Richard Webb, amateur radio station nf5b
Active net control on the Maritime MObile SErvice net, 14.300 mhz
See www.14300.net for info about radio services for mainers.
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a good captain is hoisting his first drink in a bar
when the storm hits

Sjouke Burry writes:

Comments? Any one tried it?
I have used a small (~12AH) battery, connected to the main battery
with a Scottky diode(80 amp), or a break relay.
The break relay was connected to the radio power, which is
switched off while starting, and so can feed the relay coil.
Your starting switch might have such a contact.
That way, starting the engine, or using an electric winch, does
not mess up your power.

What is the source of the battery? What is it's size.

I assume it's lead acid so it can tolerate the charging voltage range
of the main system.

Marc Auslander wrote:
Sjouke Burry writes:

Comments? Any one tried it?
I have used a small (~12AH) battery, connected to the main battery
with a Scottky diode(80 amp), or a break relay.
The break relay was connected to the radio power, which is
switched off while starting, and so can feed the relay coil.
Your starting switch might have such a contact.
That way, starting the engine, or using an electric winch, does
not mess up your power.

What is the source of the battery? What is it's size.

I assume it's lead acid so it can tolerate the charging voltage range
of the main system.
???
A 12 V 12 AH lead/acid battery , connected to the main battery with a
scottky diode.

Your reponse is not very clear.

I have ST60 system and I added a 2500 ouf, 50 VDS power supply but the filter problem is same and there are no any changes for it. I was tried to do good but still now I am not getting any good solutions. Above all posts replies are helps in some cases only.

Break the power relay is connected to the radio, which is starting to close, so you can feed the relay coil. Start your switch, may have such contact. In this way, starting the engine, or the use of electric winch, do not mess your power.