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Doug
 
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I suggest you get rid of a deep cycle battery for the starting battery. Use
a regular starting battery, such as is available at any automotive supply
store. They are cheap and are designed for delivering a lot of current for a
short period of time in a starting application.
The combiner, if wired correctly, should be only charging the banks when the
alternator is delivering power. Shore power and the battery charger should
not be a part of the combiner path. They should be two separate, not
simultaneous, charging circuits.
Ensure only the engine is connected to the start battery. There should be no
additional loads on the start battery requiring it to be charged frequently.
Suggest you put a heavy duty ON/OFF switch in the path between the shore
power charger and the start battery. Turn ON only when you feel the starter
battery needs a charge.

Doug K7ABX

"Don WA5NGP" wrote in message
om...
I would be a bit suspicious of the quality of the starting battery.
My experience has been that when batteries get on their last legs (and
need to be changed anyway) that they seem to boil away the water a
lot. It seems that no matter how you stay on top of keeping it filled
it seems to boil away. I suspect that it may be due to sulfation
buildup that creates something like an internal short, heat, and loss
of water.

Good luck
Don

"Marc" wrote in message
...
I suspect something is wrong, but need confirmation. I have three
deep cycle wet group 24's as the house bank and 1 deep cycle wet
group 24 as the starting bank. A 150 amp combiner is installed
between the banks and both banks are connected to individual legs of a
xantrex 20 amp charger.

The boat sits in a slip with shore power connected, charger on, and a
reefer running 24/7 off the house bank.

I am losing electrolyte faster in the starting bank than the house
bank.

Question : Since I have a combiner, should the charger be hooked up
to both banks? Could this be causing the electrolyte loss?




  #22   Report Post  
Doug Dotson
 
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I think that is what "You Win" means, JAX.

"Folklore killer" wrote in message
...
"Doug Dotson" AMcom wrote in Message-id:


OK JAX. You win!


And yet I note that _still_ you cannot refute anything I say.



  #23   Report Post  
Larry Bradley
 
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"Doug" wrote:

Rather than use a combiner, my Ample Power regulator has provision to
drive a solenoid to parallel the start and house batteries when the
engine is running. My Xantrex 20 amp shore power charger drives both
banks when on shore power.

I have a pair of golf cart batteries for the house bank, and a normal
auto type for a start battery. All works well, and I find that the
start battery electrolyte rarely needs to be topped up. The house
battery needs topping up a couple of times a season.

A decent regulator or shore power charger will control the charging
voltage to keep the batteries from gassing. For example, when the
house battery is low, but the start battery is up (as is normally the
case), the charger might be putting out 14.4 volts or so. The house
battery will be taking 20 amps, while the fully charged start battery
is taking only few hundred milliamps. Eventually the charger will
switch to float mode, and the voltage will go to around 13.3 volts (or
whatever you have the Xantrex set for).

Charging batteries in parallel is not a problem if the batteries are
in good condition. The most deeply discharged battery will control the
charger's output - the other battery will be at the same voltage, but
since it fully charged, it's charging current will be less. There is
no reason why it should lose electrolyte faster than the other one.


I suggest you get rid of a deep cycle battery for the starting battery. Use
a regular starting battery, such as is available at any automotive supply
store. They are cheap and are designed for delivering a lot of current for a
short period of time in a starting application.
The combiner, if wired correctly, should be only charging the banks when the
alternator is delivering power. Shore power and the battery charger should
not be a part of the combiner path. They should be two separate, not
simultaneous, charging circuits.
Ensure only the engine is connected to the start battery. There should be no
additional loads on the start battery requiring it to be charged frequently.
Suggest you put a heavy duty ON/OFF switch in the path between the shore
power charger and the start battery. Turn ON only when you feel the starter
battery needs a charge.

Doug K7ABX


Larry Bradley VE3CRX
Remove "removeme" from my e-mail address for direct mail
Ottawa, Canada

(use the e-mail address above to send directly to me)
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