I just bought my first "real" boat, (the Santana 20 doesn't count),
and am wondering where you folks get your power panels.
The Blue Sea stuff offered by BoatUS seems kinda high priced.
Any pointers? Or a source for the better (complete) catalogs?
Thanks, NormB

Blue Sea is actually a mid range to economy panel. Bass also makes a good
panel. Paneltronics makes some that are a little sexier looking but more
expensive. Newmars are not as sexy but high quality. Xantrex/Heart is
building a really nice looking pannel but you pay for it. The BEP Cruiser
seires is a good upper-mid range panel and the BEP Mellinium is really nice
looking but not cheap. Whitecap, Microlog and Ultra Panel are other brands.

I settled on Blue Sea after looking at a cheaper brand. The wiring was not
even slightly comparable and the breakers were some Chinese off brand.


"engsol" wrote in message
...
I just bought my first "real" boat, (the Santana 20 doesn't count),
and am wondering where you folks get your power panels.
The Blue Sea stuff offered by BoatUS seems kinda high priced.
Any pointers? Or a source for the better (complete) catalogs?
Thanks, NormB

I've been very happy with Paneltronics. Check them
out at www.paneltronics.com

Doug
s/v Callista

"engsol" wrote in message
...
I just bought my first "real" boat, (the Santana 20 doesn't count),
and am wondering where you folks get your power panels.
The Blue Sea stuff offered by BoatUS seems kinda high priced.
Any pointers? Or a source for the better (complete) catalogs?
Thanks, NormB

Doug Dotson wrote:
I've been very happy with Paneltronics. Check them
out at www.paneltronics.com

Just a curiosity: I don't see anymore those handy amp-meters with a
central zero. I have one in my boat that occasionally sticks and wonder
whether I can find a spare.

http://www.classicswan.org/pagine_htm/411_09.htm
It's sort of hard to see but it is the one in the upper right; the rest
position of the pointer is at -45 deg.

Daniel

Daniel wrote:
Doug Dotson wrote:
I've been very happy with Paneltronics. Check them
out at www.paneltronics.com

Just a curiosity: I don't see anymore those handy amp-meters with a
central zero. I have one in my boat that occasionally sticks and
wonder whether I can find a spare.

http://www.classicswan.org/pagine_htm/411_09.htm
It's sort of hard to see but it is the one in the upper right; the
rest position of the pointer is at -45 deg.

Daniel

Auto-spares shops usually stock these meters.
Remove "nospam" from return address.


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On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 11:04:07 GMT, "Dennis Pogson"
wrote:

Daniel wrote:
Just a curiosity: I don't see anymore those handy amp-meters with a
central zero. I have one in my boat that occasionally sticks and
wonder whether I can find a spare.

http://www.classicswan.org/pagine_htm/411_09.htm
It's sort of hard to see but it is the one in the upper right; the
rest position of the pointer is at -45 deg.

Daniel

Auto-spares shops usually stock these meters.
===========================================

The old style zero center ammeters are not very desirable in my
opinion unless mounted very close to your batteries, or it has an
external shunt. Without a shunt it is necessary to run a high current
wire (large) all the way to the meter and back to your battery/engine
area. Better to get one of the new digital ammeters (with shunt) that
reads both positive and negative flow.

If you are going to go with a digital ammeter w/shunt then you
might think about going all the way and get a power monitor
like the E-Meter or Link-10. More money but you can
really tell what is going on. This is assuming your boat has a
sizeable house bank. Otherwise it's probably not worth the
cost.

Doug
s/v CAllista

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 11:04:07 GMT, "Dennis Pogson"
wrote:

Daniel wrote:
Just a curiosity: I don't see anymore those handy amp-meters with a
central zero. I have one in my boat that occasionally sticks and
wonder whether I can find a spare.

http://www.classicswan.org/pagine_htm/411_09.htm
It's sort of hard to see but it is the one in the upper right; the
rest position of the pointer is at -45 deg.

Daniel

Auto-spares shops usually stock these meters.
===========================================

The old style zero center ammeters are not very desirable in my
opinion unless mounted very close to your batteries, or it has an
external shunt. Without a shunt it is necessary to run a high current
wire (large) all the way to the meter and back to your battery/engine
area. Better to get one of the new digital ammeters (with shunt) that
reads both positive and negative flow.

The old style zero center ammeters are not very desirable in my
opinion unless mounted very close to your batteries, or it has an
external shunt. Without a shunt it is necessary to run a high current
wire (large) all the way to the meter and back to your battery/engine
area. Better to get one of the new digital ammeters (with shunt) that
reads both positive and negative flow.

Correct me if I'm wrong (not being an electrical type But aren't
external shunt type amp meters milli-volt meters and the meter simply
measures the voltage drop across the shunt??

I don't see that the voltage could be reversed to operate the meter on
either side of zero.

I always assumed that this was the reason you we never see any external
shunt type 'zero center' amp meters.

If anyone knows of a 150-0-150 amp, shunt type amp meter, I would like to
know where I can get one. I could then monitor my house bank charge and
useage at the DC panel without opening the inverter/charger locker.

(Sorry, I didn't mean to 'hijack' this thread. This topic may deserves it's
own thread.)

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

I found that the Marinetics panels were of very high quality and used this
for both the AC and DC panels. I will admit that they are very expensive
(around $2000 each, new) however, I picked up both used from a Shannon 50
refit for $200..

When I found some cosmetic problems, (paint over spray on the meter faces),
the people at Marinetics were very helpful in sending me replacement meter
faces at a very nominal cost.

On the opposite extreme, while assisting a friend rebuild an AC/DC panel, we
order a simple SeaDog unit.. The quality was so bad that I called SeaDog
about it and there attitude was, you get what you pay for. These panel are
made up 'offshore' and they admit that they have no control over the quality
of the components.

I ended up rewiring the intire panel to eliminate the very cheap spade
connectors and low quality automotive class electrical wiring.. In some
instantaces the switches and component ratings were less than the circuit
breaker current rating, etc.

I don't recommend purchase of a prewired panel unless they use marine
quality connectors, wire, etc. (Frankly, I kinda enjoy doing the back panel
wiring).

Bottom line, Just as the guy at SeaDog said "You get what you pay for!!"

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Steve,
I found a "surplus" SeaDog panel at our local marine used
equipment store. I liked the layout and size, but was less than
thrilled with the price and quality.
Being an electronics type, I'll have to make this a project, and
build my own I guess...just have to recall the phone number of the outfit
that can make the raw panel using laser machining.
NormB

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 08:34:58 -0700, "Steve" wrote:

I found that the Marinetics panels were of very high quality and used this
for both the AC and DC panels. I will admit that they are very expensive
(around $2000 each, new) however, I picked up both used from a Shannon 50
refit for $200..

When I found some cosmetic problems, (paint over spray on the meter faces),
the people at Marinetics were very helpful in sending me replacement meter
faces at a very nominal cost.

On the opposite extreme, while assisting a friend rebuild an AC/DC panel, we
order a simple SeaDog unit.. The quality was so bad that I called SeaDog
about it and there attitude was, you get what you pay for. These panel are
made up 'offshore' and they admit that they have no control over the quality
of the components.

I ended up rewiring the intire panel to eliminate the very cheap spade
connectors and low quality automotive class electrical wiring.. In some
instantaces the switches and component ratings were less than the circuit
breaker current rating, etc.

I don't recommend purchase of a prewired panel unless they use marine
quality connectors, wire, etc. (Frankly, I kinda enjoy doing the back panel
wiring).

Bottom line, Just as the guy at SeaDog said "You get what you pay for!!"

Steve
s/v Good Intentions