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#1
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Has anyone used GTO15 from tuner as a(n intentional) radiating element?
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#2
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In article ,
Albert P. Belle Isle wrote: Yes Bruce in alaska -- add a 2 before @ |
#3
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On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 20:36:21 GMT, Bruce in Alaska
wrote: In article , Albert P. Belle Isle wrote: Yes Bruce in alaska Bruce - Thanks for responding. I plan to place the output of a 1-30MHz Polyphaser isolator (fed from my AT140 with less than 6" of hot lead) within 8" of the solid deck area through which my lower shroud is fed. From there I can run the GTO15 directly up to the mid-point of the leading edge of each spreader, and connect it near the top of the (aluminum) mast. With the mast and Polyphaser grounds connected to the keel (and isolated by the Polyphaser from my DC/60Hz grounds that single-point to the prop shaft), I hope to end up with a 50ft folded monopole whose wire radiator is parallel to and separated from the mast by about one foot. I'd like to make as small a penetration next to the shroud turnbuckle as possible, and am looking for any tips you might have on waterproof bulkhead-penetrating connector options for the in-cabin and above-deck portions of the GTO15. I've tried to describe the overall scheme in the hope that you might also comment on it. Thanks for your time. Al s/v Persephone Newburyport, MA |
#4
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In article ,
Albert P. Belle Isle wrote: On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 20:36:21 GMT, Bruce in Alaska wrote: In article , Albert P. Belle Isle wrote: Yes Bruce in alaska Bruce - Thanks for responding. I plan to place the output of a 1-30MHz Polyphaser isolator (fed from my AT140 with less than 6" of hot lead) within 8" of the solid deck area through which my lower shroud is fed. From there I can run the GTO15 directly up to the mid-point of the leading edge of each spreader, and connect it near the top of the (aluminum) mast. With the mast and Polyphaser grounds connected to the keel (and isolated by the Polyphaser from my DC/60Hz grounds that single-point to the prop shaft), I hope to end up with a 50ft folded monopole whose wire radiator is parallel to and separated from the mast by about one foot. I'd like to make as small a penetration next to the shroud turnbuckle as possible, and am looking for any tips you might have on waterproof bulkhead-penetrating connector options for the in-cabin and above-deck portions of the GTO15. I've tried to describe the overall scheme in the hope that you might also comment on it. Thanks for your time. Al s/v Persephone Newburyport, MA What is the deck made out of? (material) Is it conductive? (metal) If so, then a Thru-House insulator will be required, and should be at least 2" in diameter. If not, then anything would do, but a Thru-House insulator is still the thing to use for that job. Remeber that the GTO-15 IS part of the antenna, so don't strap it to any other structure. I suspect that your PolyPhaser isn't going to provide the RF Ground that you think it will, as compared to REAL RF Ground, but that is just an opinion. Bruce in alaska -- add a 2 before @ |
#5
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On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 19:49:17 GMT, Bruce in Alaska
wrote: In article , Albert P. Belle Isle wrote: On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 20:36:21 GMT, Bruce in Alaska wrote: In article , Albert P. Belle Isle wrote: Yes Bruce in alaska Bruce - Thanks for responding. I plan to place the output of a 1-30MHz Polyphaser isolator (fed from my AT140 with less than 6" of hot lead) within 8" of the solid deck area through which my lower shroud is fed. From there I can run the GTO15 directly up to the mid-point of the leading edge of each spreader, and connect it near the top of the (aluminum) mast. With the mast and Polyphaser grounds connected to the keel (and isolated by the Polyphaser from my DC/60Hz grounds that single-point to the prop shaft), I hope to end up with a 50ft folded monopole whose wire radiator is parallel to and separated from the mast by about one foot. I'd like to make as small a penetration next to the shroud turnbuckle as possible, and am looking for any tips you might have on waterproof bulkhead-penetrating connector options for the in-cabin and above-deck portions of the GTO15. I've tried to describe the overall scheme in the hope that you might also comment on it. Thanks for your time. Al s/v Persephone Newburyport, MA What is the deck made out of? (material) Is it conductive? (metal) If so, then a Thru-House insulator will be required, and should be at least 2" in diameter. If not, then anything would do, but a Thru-House insulator is still the thing to use for that job. Remeber that the GTO-15 IS part of the antenna, so don't strap it to any other structure. I suspect that your PolyPhaser isn't going to provide the RF Ground that you think it will, as compared to REAL RF Ground, but that is just an opinion. Bruce in alaska Bruce, The deck is FRP, Baltek cored except in places where things are mounted - like the lower shroud in this case - where it's solid FRP to avoid sideways penetration of the core by any water that might leak around a fitting's penetration. Since it is well-insulated, I was looking for the smallest penetration and for some kind of connector that would provide a waterproof connect/disconnect for both the GTO15 radiator above deck and the GTO15 hot-lead below deck. The RF (and lightning) ground will be an antimoneous lead keel with the Polyphaser capacitively coupling it to the common DC/60Hz gound system just as it couples the hot lead to the antenna. The lightning arrestor portion of the Ployphaser spark-gaps to the keel/RF ground. Separating the keel/RF/lightning ground from the single-point DC/60Hz ground avoids a DC/Galvanic path from the water around the propeller shaft through the DC ground system to the water around the keel. The keel measures around 6ft long and 3ft deep, and has a large bulb on it. I estimate its surface exposed to seawater at well over 30sqft. The ground foil run to it from the Polyphaser output ground is 8ft The effective drive point and its ground are both at the output of the Polyphaser, which provides a 1-to-30MHz low-impedance coupling of both to the output and ground of the AT140 (less than a foot away). I can keep the hotlead length under 6 inches from the Polyphaser to the base of the solid fibreglass area through which I want to pass a connector to the GTO15 radiator that goes from the deckside of that connector up the mast. The boat is a 36 foot auxiliary sloop, so the keel is a _lot_ more metal in the water than the usual bonded group of through-hulls. It will be connected to the Polyphaser output ground point with 3"x10mil grounding foil down the interior hull side to the keel bolts. Since the amount of metal is a lot more than the radials I've used on my roof-top multiband vertical antenna at home, I thought it'd suffice. Am I missing some particular consideration that causes your concern about the effectiveness of the RF ground? Is the 8ft run of foil to the 35sqft of keel surface too small for an effective counterpoise to the 50ft folded monopole? I can computer-model and analyze till I'm blue in the face, but I have little direct experience of what sea water does in such a case, and would gladly accept inputs on same. Thanks. Al s/v Persephone Newburyport, MA |
#6
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Here's some ASCII art to try to depict the set-up
___ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | 50' | | GTO15 Mast | | Wire Radiator | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |____/---||------- AT140 tuner output pin | ____Polyphaser | | \---||------- AT140 ground/DC ground system \ \ (single-pointed to prop shaft) strap\ \ strap \ \_________________ \__\ \ \ KEEL \ \ \ \________________\ |
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